the deaths head, or r/x system, does not distinguish between runout climbs on good rock, and runout climbs on bad rock. is a 5.8X, or 5.8 3 skull route, so rated because it is unprotected the whole way on bomber rock, or is it so rated because it climbs up a potato chip flake of rotten sandstone so wobbly that the whole thing might peel off one day for no discernable reason
i am willing to solo or run it out big pitches on bomber granite, karstic solid gray limestone, gneiss, quartzite but not as much on terrain where the rock is unevaluably bad like when weighting suspect nubbins at Smith, or unavoidably fractured, like on volcanic junk or yellow limestone or certain frost shattered alpine routes.