No what I'm saying is that if you can't build a bomber anchor either from cams,nuts,pins, bolts, slung trees etc dont fix a line. And if you can then why are you asking the question?
I wouldn't fix the bottom until you have the top fixed, just have someone belay you till then.
Why? Pitons? Do you lead climb? The question makes it sound like you don't know much about placing gear. Just tie off to a bomber anchor. If you cant get a bomber anchor dont fix the line.
Upon completing my morning routine I noticed a fried mushroom floating in the bowl. I know corn does this but its the first time I have seen a mushroom complete the Northwest Passage unscathed
Yeah in July and August you should be flying in to the unclimbed 2000 to 5000 foot rock routes in the Coast Mts not scrambling up loose choss in the Rockies....
Oh wait. Forget that. There is no unclimbed rock in the Coast Mts. The Rockies are the home of North American alpinism. Stay there. Climb there. Embrace your inner choss.
I would rather see another informal ice fest like last year than a formal one with clinics and stuff. Except that you seem to get more free swag at the formal ones.
The big problems seems to be that when you pick the date months in advance it often coincides with a warm spell. With an informal one you can just say "OK it's this weekend, show up" 3 days beforehand and it all works!
wasn't it Wilford who traversed under the headwall over to the Ne ridge and finished up that? And I believe someone else before him did the same thing...