Dru

That is very interesting! So I assume that the fractures spread at right angles to the direction of pull. If the screws are aligned horizontally, the fractures spread from one screw to the other. Can you remember where you saw the testing results published? It has nothing to do with that cbs. Waterfall ice is loaded vertically by gravity. Thus it tends to fracture horizontally. This is why free standing pillars crack across the middle and the lower part below the crack falls off. Also this is why vertical frontpoints shatter the ice less than horizontal frontpoints.

Theres feets of freshiez in Coquihalla Pass and moire falling as we spray.

Yes speaking of "gooo-ooots" mountain goat herds are matriarchal. The oldest Nanny is the boss. Billygoats that act too horny are butted into line. As for the other question I like it when girls climb hard because it means they can rope gun me Perhaps it is different when you are two climbers dating as I have seen at least two relationships where "Boy Climber" and "Girl Climber" were both climbing at more or less the same level and as soon as Girl Climbers 1 and 2 started to climb harder than Boy Climbers 1 and 2, they broke up and found respectively Boy Climbers 3 and 4 who were climbing 2-3 number grades harder than the ex boyfriends. Discuss.

jordop, stemalot and I went up to Lillooet to have a look for some "high elevation" ice. Don Serl and I had seen some dripping bluffs in summer in the valley of Enterprise Creek and we speculated these would freeze up before anything else around Lillooet. The downside is that at 6000' elevation one must also try and get up the 12km, 5000' elevation gain logging road before snow fall renders it impassible. Well we drove up, parked the Jeep at 5000' and in a foot of snow and bashed up the alder covered final Enterprise Creek spur to look at the ice. There are three potential lines. One looks like WI5 if in and was a mix of hanging curtains and running water over wet rock. One was in but unprotectably thin-looking and looked like mostly WI2 with some snow covered rock. The third is a neat looking corner line that would be WI3 or 4 if fully in but had some obvious hollow sections and holes. Well after looking at all of these and trying to convince ourselves we should climb the WI2 on Sunday as a reward for slogging in there (it was now 2:30 PM due to a late start) a blizzard started so we left and went to the bar instead. I have no doubt these lines will fatten in the next few weeks with current temperatures but if any more snow falls it would be a long, long ski or slog in to get at them. I have no intent of rushing back. If anyone is more motivated the Grid Reference location is at 730065 on NTS map 92 I/12. Copnsidering these lines are at the same elevation as the top of "Isodorth" and "Belmore" I think its safe to say there is no ice in, in Lillooet yet. There was a thicker looking flow on the bottom of the north-northeast face of Mt Brew. It would be another hour and a half back up the valley to get at what is probably a 2-3 pitch WI2. If you are really desperate get up there now while avalanche hazrd is low.

Ive never had problems plunging the Quark shaft and I have used them a lot in the alpine.

I kinda like it when you get that jalapeno in the eye sensation, after the first 10 minutes anyway.

Hey E if you can't find it just walk up to 3rd summit and then walk DOWN to the top of the route and rap in.

I sent my old rack to Cuba.

When I was down at Smiff some kids walking by while I was belaying asked me if I was a Beavers fan. I told them it was past time for them to take their ritalin and STFU.

what makes you special? why should i give you climbing gear when i can give it to some sherpa that makes 1/10 of what you do?

I know some people who tried this climb back in the early 90's. The jungle factor was damn high!

How often do you think Wolfgang Gullich changed his underwear when working Action Directe? Do you think Alex Huber changed his ginch after free soloing Der Opportunist, or Der Kommunist, or the Brandler-Hasse, or taking the fall off the 14b pitch of Bellavista and ripping out half his gear? Can you place knotted panties in the cracks in the Elbesandstein? How many panties should one take on the melted out North Face of the Eiger? Do sWiss underwears change more often than German ones, after all there is more Swiss chocolate. Maybe they change them when the cuckoo clock coos.

iT'S BECAUSE OF THE WAY ICE FRACTURES NOT THE EQUALIZATION PATTERN

You mean like the chicks in lillooet who tell you that when they get pregnant they stick to drinking beer?

This roof which everyone has lazily gaped at for years is now a climb! http://mattmaddaloni.com/News%20Room/CroMagnonMan.htm

is w00p anything like w00t

I have to wash my polypro for my ice climbing trip to a sectret undisclosed destination on Saturday!

What do you mean thinNING? It's just plain thin They aren't really coke bottle either Mr Hornrims!

a nickel bag of poo? sounds like scott's rugby team is having a manure sale.

I know, in Chillwack the high school students have 3 kids sometimes!

go commando and never anything to change!

Aren't you a bit young to have a daughter, snuggles?

i think you are in error here, i know you have met mike layton!

Take the red bag, take the blue bag.

Testing has shown that for ice belay anchors the strongest configuration hasd the screws aligned vertically one above the other, as opposed to horizontally or offset.