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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. man, nothing kills good spray deader than chemical formulae
  2. Here's another photo of the Ibex-steinbok group
  3. There's never any snow on Yak.... Trust me, there's snow up there right now 30cms of freshiez with surface hoar in the valley bottom yesterday, and it snowed at the pass today too.
  4. Dru

    pig avatar

  5. Dru

    pig avatar

    where have all the piggy avatars gone
  6. why would i take my shoes off to belay?
  7. Yes The best place to grow is in the basement...with UV lights
  8. no big deal just remember to thread the thicker one thru the anchor when rapping. i used a 9mm and an 8mm a lot at one time when one of my 8mms was chopped by rocks and i didnt feel like buying new rope
  9. Yes, after I saw a slideshow by Barry B. once featuring Dave Cheesemond RIP and a tattered pair of wool gloves, I went out and bought myself a dedicated pair of "rock jamming gloves". Cut the fingertips off, but leave the fingers long, unlike "fingerless gloves". Wool on dry granite has good friction I normally use the Water Bottle parka for both ice and rock, but for rock, with short approaches, i am more willing to bring a stainless steel thermos as well. Also rock is usually dry when its cold, so I wear Carhartts and get the benefit of increased wind resistance compared to nylon/poly type fabrics.
  10. The other day when i was preparing to climb at Squamish I knew it was going to be cold and I decided to do something about it... I took an old wool sock and cut it in half just above the heel, then i cut the toe open with a slit along the seam. Now I have two short wool tubes that I can pull on over my rockshoes, and that fit between my pants cuff and rock shoe. Basically ankle warmers. It makes it a lot nicer to take your shoes off to climb some cold rock. A bonus is that it makes you look like you are wearing wool socks in your rockshoes, Andy Cairns style Another thing that i have found work really well is to put a shake and heat pad inside my toque, against my forehead, and another one inside my neck gaiter at the back of my neck. Seems to make me feel a lot warmer and you can warm up your cold hands against either without having to get the pads all chalked upin your chalkbag. What aresome other useful tips ppl have? because it might be anotyher 2 months of cold before the rock warms up.
  11. Getting cold again starting Tuesday -7 C forecast for lillooet -3 for Chilliwack! I predict Medusa will be in by Friday.
  12. Dru

    Crampon Lube

    Chalk-BagBalm
  13. Dru

    Crampon Lube

    Tri(cam)-Flow
  14. Dru

    Crampon Lube

    Crevasseline?
  15. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/437295/Main/437149/#Post437295 There IS an echo in here Or maybe one of these posts was made on Minnesota time.
  16. doesnt it kinda look overcammed in there
  17. Dru

    Crampon Lube

    ATCreem?
  18. Dru

    CONGRATULATION!!!

    please stop opening your spam if you all stop opening it they will stop sending it to you
  19. oh you can get to manning mixed from the left, no water necessary
  20. Climb: Needle Peak-West Ridge Date of Climb: 2/11/2005 Trip Report: At around 11PM last night I made a spontaneous decision to bail from work today and go climbing instead. By the time I woke up it was 10AM, so much for the plan to take a quick solo spin up the North Couloir on Slesse* I decided to head up to Coquihalla Pass. I had both skis and snowshoes and ice tools in the car because of 3 different destinations in mind. By the time I got to the Needle pullout it was noon so I decided to just go for a snowshoe up Needle Peak. There is about 30cm of heavy freshiez well bonded on top of a super solid ice layer. I wandered around trying not to destroy the skiers uptrack and checked out the ice formed up under the NF before heading up the west ridge. It was kind of icy and I started to wish I had crampons on for the summit pyramid but I managed to get through Ok by hopping from rock to rock, and scratching steps with my shovel handle "Summit or die" - well I didn't die so I summitted. It was a really nice day bluebird sky and no one else on the mountain On the way back down I practiced tele turns as my snowshoes slid out on the ice layer. I'm really glad I didnt ski this as I would be wrapped around a tree somewhere instead of home drinking beer Got back to the car just at sunset in time to see a 100m long chunk of ice slide down the slabs on Yak Do not climb on Yak on sunny winter days! Gear Notes: Snowshoes Aluminum crampons would have been nice Approach Notes: Highway 5 to pass Snowshoe up West Ridge trail Freshiez *Please note sarcasm here
  21. Dru

    White People

    i got that for xmas
  22. spend a week tentbound with fred beckey and 20 blocks of sweaty cheddar on the monarch icefield
  23. oh yes the unclimbed column 600m above the top of mousetrap is in. i know of a secret way to get to the top if anyone feels like a 4 hour ski approach and rap-in. actually it will probably all fall down tomorrow with the rain
  24. Nothin' in in BoxCanyon that I could see but across the highway there is a thin 2 pitchish thing in on a slab that looks like WI3 - easy slabs separated by 3-4m high vertical walls of yellow ice where the exfoliations between slabs are The ice back in the bowl below Needle NF is in and fat too. The big ice flow on Yak below the central depression is in desperate shape. It was 300m long at 11:45 AM and 100m long at 5:30 PM shrinkage!
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