Dru

Maybe coating feet in K-Y would work as well? The other advantage to multiple socks is more wipeage material for those little accidents - as demonstrated by the One Sock Man R. Borbon himself! [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 09-18-2001).]

I'm always suspicuious when told "these socks are so good you don't need a liner". My understanding is that liners prevent blistering as follows: friction is dissipated in the sliding interface between the liner sock and the outer sock, and hence not transmitted through to the skin. Hence, the skin is not chafed and does not blister. If you only go with one sock, no matter how thick and comfy, don't you forfeit this benefit? Any of you 'one sock' types out there want to rebut this? The only time I've ever gotten blisters is when wearing a single layer of socks (no liner)

I notice in one of those full page "BuyOutdoorGear.com" ads in the latest Climbing Mag you can order a 'Bouldering Package' that, in addition to mat, bouldering bag, and chalk, comes with the all important METOLIUS KNIT BEANIE. Now anyone care to explain why toques are so fashionable with boulderers, "yo"? Is it the Canadian influence or what?

Jared, glad you liked it. Maybe I should make my point more clearly. Single wall tents are not the "ultimate tent". They are designed to be super light and pretty much used on snow only, for lightweight high alpine ascents like you might find in the Himalayas, Alaska, Saint Elias etc. I have some experience with them and frankly my bivi sack is more durable, and my MEC Snowfield is about 10x more durable than either (but weighs 5X as much). I compare using a Bibler single-wall, or a Garuda, or Integral Designs, for every day tenting use, to using a pair of touchy-feely twisted toe sport slippers made for overhanging 5.14 redpoints to climb 5.6 chimneys and fist cracks. Sure you can do it but it is not what they were designed for and they will suffer accordingly.

It's still closed CASBC is working on it. Maybe next spring, prospects are not so good in the short term future. Until then lots more good rock at Squamish to explore.

Why did the yogi get his tooth drilled without anaesthetic? He wanted to transcend dental medication. Mahatma Gandhi walked everywhere without shoes as a child. As he grew older, many venerated him for his wisdom and leadership, and considered him almost holy. But he was always frail, and suffered from bad breath and arthritis. This made him a "super callused fragile mystic afflicted by halitosis" - Mary Poppins would have approved.

Its steeper than 45. And like I said, you would not belay all of that. ever seen the stuff come down that face on a hot day?

What about rusty pitons - where do they belong? eBay?

That's Pitches with a "p", not "B", caveman

quote: Originally posted by Jason Martin: Guides -- while guiding -- often pitch out the whole thing. It tends to take somewhere between the high teens and the low twenties to do this. The route changes rather drastically year to year and thus is not subject to the same type of pitch analysis that one might put on "Diedre." Poor guides How do they stand it? Jason i agree with you about the belays on the headwall, the bolts are much harder to find than on Diedre Signed, pathetic loser

Rafael how many pitches did you and caveman do on slesse? 6? or 177?

I heard the idea from some eco-protestors who always put on the Adult depends before chaining themselves to logging trucks or whatever. looks pretty dumb if you have to unchain yourself to go potty after 12 hours.... yeah Rybolt, i know "eco-terrorists" [sic]!

Caveman, using disposable diapers because you can't drop the leg loops on your harness is too hardcore for me

The Canadian and American Border Peaks are across from slesse. rock is trash. best approach is out of logging roads in Tamihi creek. best climbed in spring. next one past those is mcguire. limestone!!!! thats where I was on Sunday. lessee -did you read some hesse on slesse? did it get messy? were your clothes dressy?

Agre with Cave Man, You can do it in as many pitches as you want!!!! i know two guys who did the complete North-North Arete in 30 pitches. "Guidebook length" is 6 (for only the top half...)

You are welcome brukb, anytime. If I posted something that said Diedre at Squamish was 15 pitches long I would hope someone would call me on if for distributing misinformation. same deal here. there is no way that you can squeeze 23 pitches out of the coleman headwall. vertical rise is about 600m. thats 12 pitches with 50m ropes or 10 pitches with 60m ropes. even with additional length due to not being vertical that does not add up to 23 pitches especially because you wouldn't pitch out all of the 600m. understand why I question the 23 pitch statistic? [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 09-17-2001).]

The tent is not meant to be used in "moderate" conditions. extreme conditions only! Moderate conditions (car camping for instance) are what WalMart style $65 tents are for.

Ade, what was your bivi gear? A bottle of Jagermeister and a toque? The Genie is 30 liters. 30, count em, 30. With the amount of gear I carry there is no way anything but the most minimal bivi gear fits in there - I find for a 'technical' alpine route (super light rack of about 6 pieces and 6 slings, harness etc., crampons etc. rope & helmet) planning on a 'suffer' bivi (light fleece and or down jacket, overbag and or bivi sack, feet in pack, sleep on rope and pack backpad, no stove or pots, just cold food) I still need about 40 liters of pack size -can you share your secrets?

i just got the latest climbing mag. i actually thought it was one of the best of the last 6 months. the spray column I mean hot flashes was pretty good with that fast alaska stuff.

quote: Originally posted by michaeljosephnozel: Exasperator--quite possibly the finest 10c pitch I've ever done. (And the first pitch is no pushover). A question: how many of you have ever found Sunblessed. I tried; failed miserably. Don't even know if I was within a stone's throw, or hours away. Talked to some locals who said, "It's spectacular. . . if you can find it. . . ." Dru, what's the situation? Is it a Canadian secret? On a separate, but related note, is the consumption of ganga higher at Squamish than anywhere else? I do not personally imbibe, but respect other's decision to do so. But, good lord, I saw ganga being consumed for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Never have seen the likes of the Squamish consumption at other crags. Dru, what's the situation? Is it a Canadian secret? Yeah you have to have hooted 3 bowls of ganja to find it. the guidebpook cover is a photo-mosaic of a crack at Lovers Leap with a background of Squamish landscape. Actually just go up the gully towards 3rd peak for 5 minutes past White Cliff, then take the obvious break out right. follow the trail from there. or hike to 3rd peak and down the slabs to the top and contour over to the ramp by Nicks Trick. same deal. how can you not find it?

If I was bin Laden I would have shaved that beard, traded the long shirt and turban for a clunky, ill fitting suit, and be hanging out in Pyongyang right now practicing saying "yes, divine leader Kim. no, divine leader Kim." Somehow i really doubt he's still in Afghanistan. Is there a big Cure revival yet?

whatever happened to Mr. Grissom anyways?

Yeah back in the day (1997 at places like Kelowna) they would create '1 bolt' sport climbs on 5 m high chunks of rock. Nowadays they boulder it instead! Take up bouldering - get bold - no more sissy bolts.

23 pitches??????? On the Coleman Headwall??? Maybe with a 50 foot rope?

Congrats Cavey. Slesse was looking good - I was up Grant on Sat. and McGuire on Sunday. Some questions- 1) 1 day or two? 2) West side or east side descent? 3) Booty? 4) Bypass or direct start? 5) Beckey Ramps or crest direct?