jbeissel

Thanks for all of the beta! I just tapped into the Trip Reports archive and I have to say that is a fantastic feature of this site and thanks to all of those who have shared their experiences there! I still haven't settled on a strategy, but I am getting a better idea of what to expect. The Mountaineers Creek approach/Sherpa Glacier descent sounds like the more direct path, but introduces alot of variables that make me wonder if the Ingalls Pass approach / Cascade Couloir descent might be a safer bet for someone who is "onsighting". A couple more questions - is "The Notch" bivy the saddle in the ridge just below the Great Gendarme? Also, what is the best map for this area? Trails Illustrated?

Car to car or Ingalls to Ingalls sounds good. Might be nice to avoid carrying bivy gear. Bivy gear + boots in the pack (I'm assuming I'm going to want rock shoes for the 5.9 pitches) is going to be a drag. Do alot of people bivy on the ridge?

Whoops, sorry, didn't see the Eastern Central forum. Maybe an admin can move this thread? So one bivy at Ingalls Lake? Leave bivy gear and return after the descent? (We're planning on doing the upper ridge) I have both the Nelson and Becky guides.

I'm hoping to get a little beta on Mount Stuart's North Ridge. We're looking to climb it in around the second week of July. Which trailhead would you recommend starting at? (Ingalls Lake/Stuart Pass or Mountaineer Creek) What is the best strategy in terms of bivying? Where are potential bivy spots and where can water be found? Would you suggest doing it in a day/push? What type of snow/ice gear would you suggest? Is there likely to be much snow in the Cascadia Couloir? Full on mountaineering boots with crampons and ice axe, approach shoes with instep crampons, or something in between? Thanks!

How far is it from the closure at MP19 to the Boston Basin trailhead?