wdietsch

quote: Originally posted by Gerg: I confirmed this when I weighed one this weekend (see earlier post).[ 03-27-2002: Message edited by: Gerg ] Gerg ... sorry about that, must of had my head up my ass and missed that part.... Rodchester..... 1 lb = 453.6 grams

quote: Originally posted by geordie: Much like the BD halfdome except 100g lighter, Is it really 100 g's lighter? Did you guys put them both on a scale? BD claims that the Half Dome weights 432 g's however I have not weight one myself. BD's website also claims my BP hammer weights 750 g's but with a pick and leash it actually weights 810 g's I have been looking at the Half Dome lately to replace my old Edlerid Ultralight "Conehead". I have tried the Ecrin Roc and the Half Dome fits my large melon much better, epecially when wearing a liner. Consume mass quantities.....

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Anyone know what they weight is in pounds compared to the Ecrin roc? Ecrin = 496 g per Petzl's websiteElios Class = 414 g per Barrabes website http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?trademark_id=347&pf_id=9201

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: It sounds like you expect the reverso to be a light weight gri-gri or something. Not.... get a real harness, I shelved my Alpine Bod for the very same reasons

Stefan....yes (don't know that it was/is in this year) nomally a 2 pitch WI2+/WI3 line forms on the N-NE corner. Very visible from the Highway when west bound just past the eastern turn off to the Tieton River Road. From the top of the second pitch walk off to the right (northwest)decend down thru the trees. This has been refered to by many names .. "Elk Piss Vail", "The Golden Goose", to name a couple.Quite often thin WI2/WI3 ice also forms on the NE slope of Westfall Rocks at the "town" of Rimrock directly north of the highway across from the grocery store and east of Wildcat Creek [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: wdietsch ]

quote: Originally posted by sobo: think the rocks are *west* of the creek.] Sobo's correct, ice is west of the creek, my bad quote: [/qb]Wes: Have you led that N-NE line on Goose Egg? What's it like? [/qb] First time I climbed it (7-8? years ago) I led the first pitch, Cragg led the second. Couple of years ago it was really fat and I did it solo. I think it is a good climb to take newbies on looking for something more than a top rope. If you are in the area and have the time, sure why.. but it is not a "destination" [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: wdietsch ]

Anyone checked their site lately? http://www.grivel.com/menu/main.html New line of tools, a new crampon and packs

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Nibbling on bacon, chewin' on cheese, Erik, That wouldn't be "fumnda" cheese now would it?

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: The Sky is Falling Wallowa Mtns, Mar 21, 2002 I had the pins on my harness and reaching the belay handed them over where Wes tried, without luck, to add a decent pin to the belay. Will is too kind, this should read more like "Wes pulled a fucky gumby and left the ground without the pins". I was actually able to add a #2 LA to the belay Note to self.... "Buy a couple of stubbies to add to the rack, tied off screws are bullshit especially with spectra runners" Sobo... glad you and Cragg finished her off. I am kind of fond of TLN and Chinook Pass, being the old stomping grounds and all. It came down to the very last minute when Will and I made the decision not to go to TLN and head out to the Wallowas. TG did some pretty smooth talking, almost as smooth as his brew. Both these areas and places like Strobach go right along with the thread on "Washington Ice" in relation to there being lots of options for those willing to search/work for it. TG spotted this flow while scouting around on something else. For those of you checking out Strobach don't ignore the North Fork of the Tieton and other areas on White Pass both above and below Rimrock Lake. On Chinook Pass, the lower north face of Fife's Peaks also has huge potential for those willing to put in the effort. Wes

quote: Originally posted by JoeTool: I'm 6'6" so I like a long shaft boy, your just asking for trouble with a statement like this from this crew.. seriously now, if you really want a modular axe that can easliy adapt to either a somewhat general use to a decent techical tool I suggest looking at the CM Pulsar multi shaft, I think they still sell them? However not necesarily the best general purpose axe IMO

fyi.... does not sound all that encouraging ... especailly since I am getting ready to go to a 8.5mm x 60m 1/2 rope setup http://www.barrabes.com/typ/articulos.asp?id_articulo=2006

quote: Originally posted by JoeTool: I found a pulsar for 137.00,does that sound good?also, do you need a wrench to change the shaft? is it a "Pulsar" or the "Pulsar Multi"? they are not the same base unit

quote: Originally posted by cj001f: It's not a real tool - but the Stubai Tourlite Telescope might be worth investigating (killerdeals.com - "Stubai") it converts from 60cm to 90cm. Carl pretty neat concepts, at 17 oz I am assuming the head in Aluminum http://www.northernmountain.com/pgi-ProductSpec?135777,7

Hey Joe, where you goin' with that axe in your hand? Here is a link to Mountain Gear's site with the "Multi" http://www.mgear.com/pages/Product/product.asp?level1_id=16&level2_id=46&level3_id=117&item=921280&level2_title=Ice+%26+Mountaineering&level3_title=Ice+Tools

Anyone have one of these? I am looking for a small technical daypack and the price seems just to good to be true for the features/materials listed. Perhaps they are made by Vietmese felons.

bringing this back up to the top hoping to perhaps get a little more feedback. In particular I am interested in the "Ice Axe Handcuffs" as Yates calls them, the Alpine units Ibex refers to. Ibex.. is the plastic buckle that you refer to on the wrist strap?

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Peter you need to take a lesson in pure hostility. I give them for free. that sounds somewhat "Neanderthal"

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Heres a real simple demonstration. set a single piece anchor wire nut at top of a cliff. girth hitch a sling to it. attach 50L pack full of rocks. tie the rocks off on 30 feet of slack to the girth hitched sling then throw them off the cliff. (Factor 1 fall with 30 footfall on 30 ft of line out) repeat and see how long it takes wire to cut the sling through. Add if your buddy really thinks his method is sound have him stand directly under the pack when you cut her loose.

I have various Omega biners from the older Omega-Lite 2's, std oval's and d's to the newer Omega 4's in both std gate and wire. Have yet to have a problem. Can't say the same for other brands I own. I also recently purchased one of the Omega Jake HMS style units, which although they are a bit on the heavy side of things, have that nice "off-axis" gate swing which I find works well when your have multiple knots/tie-in's on one biner, such as hanging belays.FWIW several of my friends have OP ice screws and I hear few complaints. IMO - I think putting prisoners to work is a good thing

quote: Originally posted by erik: yup you are right there....bd had these things designed like years ago and like the day after it expired that shit was on the market..... and i reccomend them too, if you pay retail they are like $1.50 cheaper then the spirits andhave all the same wieghts and strengh...... and i think a larger gate opening..... talking about expired patents.... I was working on a tooling project for Metolius several years back (98, 99" ?)when they were getting ready to release the "Curved Hex". Everthing was ready to roll... just waiting for the original Chouinard patent to run out

wayne1112.... in regards to Pete's Pile, interested in knowing when you climbed there what kind of pro you needed in addition to screws, if any. granted things are always changing is a given ......

This still in one of my favorites. It is a little "clunky" but it works http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/rweather/

Did anyone posting on this site attend last nights meeting in Tacoma?

quote: Originally posted by verticalturtle: Omega 4.0 Wire gate mucho roomminimal pesos $.02 vt Thumbs up as well from me on the Omega 4.0 wires. FWIW, last week I picked up 2 anodized Faders wiregates that are oh so similar in geometry to the Omega 4.0's it's not funny, however the gate is a little different. Got them for $4.00 a pop at ClimbMax in Portland along with a 4' rabbit runner, $13.00 and out the door for the lot....

willstrickland was bitchin about the Omega JC one day ice climbing, same kind of issues