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Trip: Colfax Peak - East Ridge Trip Date: 01/18/2025 Trip Report: Me, @Albuquerque Fred, and Mike (the 3 amigos) climbed Colfax Peak on Saturday the 18th. We camped at the trailhead and woke up early enough to be able to get beers and dinner at Graham's in Glacier that afternoon (this alleviating thys of the need to eat and food on route). Which was good since it was so cold none of us really ate or drank anything all day. We were able to drive to maybe .5 miles from the summer TH before we stopped at the snow park berm. Others chose to drive past this but I believe it is bad form, the snowmobilers are our friends, let's play well together. All users of the outdoors share more than they differ. The Grouse Creek approach worked well, booting for a short time through the forest before switching to skinning. The skin to Colfax Saddle was easy on firm wind packed snow; some areas required ski crampons so we just wore them most of the time. The wind at the saddle was brutal, making the already cold air almost unbearable. We left skis at the saddle and cramponed over the false summit to the true summit of Colfax. We spent 30 seconds, then returned to the skis in the lee of a rock at the saddle. The sun and shelter were amazing, but we had to descend some time, so back into the maelstrom we went. The ski was actually excellent... If you are a connoseur of ski mountaineering skiing, not laps. Firm wind pack, but smooth, with patches of re-worked powder, and, lower, dust on crust. The exit was amazing, 3 hours total from Colfax to the car with a nice long break in the lee. We called it the best skiing on a mid-winter ski mountaineering trip. So in short, excellent***. Cosley-Houston is out, Polish looked ok, but I'm not good enough to knowuch about it. The upper ice ribbon was continuous but narrow: Baker from Colfax: Gear Notes: Skis, ski crampons, crampons, axe, helmet, glacier gear. Approach Notes: Grouse Creek in ski boots.

She was under mild tension, sure enough, but safely handled. Road is cleared all the way to turnaround before trailhead. It's super rough and enough brush to lightly rake your car but I got my big ol sprinter through if that gives you an idea. I had very limited time so I did the best I could with the brush.

Holy shit. Polish hadn’t even crossed my mind. Any pictures of Kimchi Suicide?

If anyone is thinking of Colfax with this high pressure. As of 1/13 the Cosley-Houston is not formed, though the Polish Route looks like it may have connected. North and east side of Lincoln look like the future of local Alpinism.

When we finally get out in the hills together @olyclimber, remind me to tell you about the "rescue" on Sauk of a lady way up by the summit, at night, in November, in the snow, wearing those slippers (software won't let me spell their name!).

Finally got the second ascent of this gem via a major variation. I call the variation,"Oly Licked my girlfriend's shirt while she was in it" Here are the photos. Here Gyselinck and I enjoy the approach, aided by a dinosaur of course. During the second half of the approach, we encountered this climber ready to fight and trying to beat us to the second ascent. Here I am approaching the true false summit, which happened to be an active volcano. The approach now over, we get our first look at the mountain The climb was interesting, but a little boring. About 102 pitches of mostly 5.10+ climbing on volcanic scree. Here is the Lyger riding the true summit Here I am on the summit enjoying a well deserved beer The descent was uneventful and took 14 days. This is what awaited us at the trailhead after the climb.