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  2. [TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 12/09/2019

    Good one.
  3. [TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 12/09/2019

    Pretending you"re Ueli Steck seems like a bad idea.
  4. You guys nailed it. Nice work!
  5. Trip: Colfax Peak - Cosley Houston Trip Date: 12/09/2019 Trip Report: Andrew Dyer and I boarded the last car on the Cosley Houston train this fall and climbed it on a beautiful December day. The route was in good shape, it seemed. 60m pitch of easy ice and snow to the crux. The crux was probably 15 feet of near vertical and then 15-20 feet of vertical to slightly overhung, pretty real for an ice newb like me. It was definitely the hardest lead of my life. I played it safe and placed 6 screws, increasing the pump greatly but at least I felt safer. I stopped a few feet short of the end of the ice so I could build a solid belay with screws. We bypassed the second ice crux, instead taking AI2 to the right. Overall, the snow conditions we quite good on the route, boot top pow with firm snice beneath. The descent down the Coleman was a little tricky. We had to go far skier's right to find some key bridges across some huge crevasses. Skis from 8000 ft down to the Heliotrope Trail made things rather pleasant. My first turns of the season were pow turns! Thanks to Andrew for a rad day in the alpine. It took us 12 hours, but we definitely lost time booting in the pow, my super slow crux lead, and wandering down the Coleman, looking for bridges. Obviously, conditions will be changing very rapidly with the storm currently, but at least we found no real signs of instability up there. Let the snow begin! https://climberkyle.com/2019/12/13/colfax-peak-cosley-houston-wi4/ Colfax, Polish route looks good to go. That infamous pillar. Snowfield above the crux. Final steps, Lincoln in the background. Sunset pow! Much wow! Gear Notes: 10 screws, 60 m single rope. I would do a 60 m twin rope next time and just double it over for the crux. Approach Notes: Hiked to the top of the Hogsback, skinned to 8000 ft, booted to the start of the route. It would definitely not be worth it to carry skis over at this moment, too many zig zags and ups and downs on the descent.
  6. [TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 12/09/2019

    Just to add a few of my thoughts on an awesome day in the mountains: The warmth was a bit concerning, but fortunately it stayed just cool enough that the snow and ice remained fairly stable. As we passed the Thumbtack I was on the fence as to whether it was wise to continue, but Michael convinced me that we should at least try the first pitch. He led through to the tree grove, and by the time I reached his belay I knew we'd made the right choice and felt psyched to continue. I initially went a bit off-route following a plumb-line from the grove, but ended up downclimbing and traversing left. This long simul pitch was technically easy but I felt I had to be cautious not to commit my weight to loose, shallow snow on a slippery slab. I placed a microtraxion on a decent cam about halfway to the base of the crux ice step. Michael led that next pitch with aplomb, while I ducked under a small roof to shield myself from the icicle bombardment, belaying from two ok screws and a pounded-in tool. The ice I placed the screws in was a little more melty than I would've liked, but fortunately still in the shade. If it had been in the sun I would have tried to excavate a rock anchor, at least as a backup. The rest of the climb I got to pretend I was Ueli Steck and sprint up solid snow to a belay off some frozen scrub trees on the summit ridge. In a higher snowpack these trees would surely be buried, but a butt-belay should suffice. We began descending from the summit just after 1:00pm, and by the time we were rapping there were clumps of snow and ice sloughing off sun-heated rocks. The descent was mellow (thanks to Michael's aid climbing skills to thread the rope) with a 60m rap (we brought a tag line), but there were plenty of actual and possible intermediate rap anchors in the gully. There is some easy snowfield down-climbing both before and after the rap. No doubt the snowpack is changing rapidly in the next few days, but for future reference carrying the skis was definitely a wasted effort in these conditions. I feel like we got a bit lucky regarding the weather's effect on the route conditions, but it definitely felt like some type-1 fun on a beautiful day in the mountains. Watching an ocean of fog settled over Seattle and the Puget Sound valley strengthened my delight in being out of the city on a Monday in December.
  7. for sale FS: Cilogear 60L Worksack

    Is this still available?
  8. Last week
  9. [TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 12/09/2019

    Great climb, interesting to see pics of it and the pass in the current low snow conditions. Thanks!
  10. [TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 12/09/2019

    Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Trip Date: 12/09/2019 Trip Report: Went out to Chair peak yesterday in search of mixed conditions and found exactly what we were searching for. We couldn't have asked for a nicer day, but would have preferred a few more clouds to shade us and the route from the blazing sun. Overall I would describe the route as "in" mixed climbing condition. Out as a snow or ice climb P1: We took the right variation. Very fun and good mixed climbing practice. little to no ice but I did place one 10cm screw. P2: was a simul block across snow covered slabs and ledges over to the base of the ice step. Not many options for belays but it's hard to fall with much force on those slabs. P3: Sweet neve up to the narrow, thin and unfortunately short ice step. The step consists of a narrow column just barely wide enough to both protect and climb. I placed two rater than one stubby to help protect the belay anchor. I placed my spectre for fun in some turf after the step and belayed off two pins and a slung pinch point up and right. P4: cruiser snow simul to the top. Sean slung a tree for pro. Both rap anchors for the couloir rappel are currently out of reach. In order to reach the bolts I had to stand on my toes and hook the bottom rap ring, with my tool, then do a pull up and clip in direct to my tool in order to thread the rappels. The piton rappel is another 20ft higher. I'm 6'2 and could barely reach, anyone shorter would likely need to tie their tools together or use a probe. The skis pictures spent the day under a tree somewhere on the approach. Gear Notes: Gear we brought: Cams .4-1, many nuts, 1 Spectre, 4 kb's, 2 10cm, 1 13cm, and 2 16cm screws, 1 picket, 9 single slings 2 doubles. Gear we used: all the cams, the KB's, the 10cm, 13cm and one of the 16's, 6 singles 2 doubles. Approach Notes: Currently the summer approach seemed to be the best option. Pray for snow.
  11. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    It is on the Eliot, but didn't really get a view of the NF due to the weather conditions. My partner Noah was back on Hood yesterday and saw someone solo the Right Gully so it might be in currently.
  12. Beacon

    Went out with Ryan O, new proud papa of a little boy, today. Bluebird weather and had the place to ourselves for a corner lap. Damp in a few spots P1 and P3 mostly, but the ramp was 100% dry and warm. Classic finish c to c nothing to write home about, maybe 1:45-1:50 or so. Ryan saw a couple does walking down the tracks (crunch crunch crunch "how did you not hear them?") Osprey, Eagle and Peregrines at work. No one saw any new bolts on Starmaster although we stared and squinted hard they did not materialize. Ryan asked me if it would be appropriate to wrap up/coil the end of the shit rope left on the route laying in the dirt and I was affirmative on that as the weight of a coil hanging reduces the swinging back and forth movement (which was happening in the wind) which will quickly core shot a line as it rubs back and forth....back and forth...back and forth, and it will also reduce the likelihood of critters nibbling the end. Blame me if offended. DECEMBER 9TH BROTHERS!
  13. Looking for weekend ice & alpine partners, I'm free almost every weekend, can lead steep ice and have lots of gear!
  14. Mt Hood

    The weather has been warm and wet, but I suspect the higher elevations have been getting snow. Has anybody taken a look at the NF of Hood recently? Anything to report?
  15. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Is this below NF Hood/Elliot Glacier? If so, did you get a look at the NF of Hood and how did it look? I'm particularly interested in the Right Gulley.
  16. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Went and hiked up with Noah to try and climb Cooper 30 on Saturday. Not quite in yet. Looking up at Cooper 30. Still a bit thin. Flows to the right of Cooper 30. Thought about climbing the right pillar, but Noah couldn't find a safe anchor for me to belay from and we were running a bit low on time.
  17. Ok deal, let me know when you are in the area
  18. Old Everest Expedition Article

    Thanks much for sharing the link to the story and old pics, Kurt! You guys were a tough bunch BITD. And nice to see connections to the Palouse...
  19. For sale a brand new pair of Dynafit TLT8 Women's Expedition CR Alpine Touring Ski Boots. Girlfriend ended up not waning. Absolutely never skied, worn outside, etc. Brand new. 749 + Tax new. Asking $600 Shipped. Located in Portland, ME. Any questions let me know, I have the men's TLT8 and they're incredible.
  20. [TR] Dragontail Peak - North East Couloir 11/23/2019

    Nice write up. I always appreciate the honesty in a good TR. there are always mixed feelings in big climbs. Congrats on an exciting day in the hills.
  21. review Sewer wanted

    I make a lot of my own gear and gear for friends as a hobby and I've talked a bit to Kyle from HMGAR a bit over instagram. Haven't dealt with him personally, but I get the impression he is passionate about quality work and climbing.
  22. Thanks @curtveld! It certainly did have better views that I was expecting and low enough to be a good option in the shoulder seasons. You won't ever find it crowded!
  23. I will teach you what I know about backcountry skiing if you can rope gun some ice for me! I'm up north for a few more weeks but lets link up when I get don to Olympia!
  24. Denali 2020 Looking for partners

    Hey I found a group of 4 best of luck!
  25. Denali 2020 Looking for partners

    I'm totally interested in getting up Denali 2020. I live in Portland have lots of time in the cascades along with some in Alaska and Colorado.
  26. Hello, I am in Tenino, close to Olympia, and looking for partners too, I have considerable experience in rock, ice and alpine skiing but not much in back country skiing yet, I go to the rock gym in Lacey often, let me know if you are interested.
  27. Earlier
  28. I'm new to the PNW and looking for rock climbing and backcountry skiing partners. I have a rack and some experience with multipitch but rock is not my strong suit. I am a competent backcountry skier and snow / ice climber, but I don't have that gear up here right now. Based in Kirkland and soon to be in Olympia.
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