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  2. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    If I climb PR I will definitely post here.
  3. Today
  4. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Let me know @OlegV and @DPS! It is on my list....
  5. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Sounds good Oleg, maybe next year! Let's do it!
  6. review Break Testing Climbing Cams

    I love that channel, it changed the way I rig anchors.
  7. [TR] Prusik Peak - Der Sportsman 06/23/2020

    Thanks for the beta. I would only have to aid the first 6 pitches, the rest I could free.
  8. [TR] Prusik Peak - Der Sportsman 06/23/2020

    Nice! Thanks for posting.
  9. I know that the pass exchange is no longer a thing, but are there groups out there with passes that would be willing to add to folks to their group passes if there is room? Looking specifically for St Helens (4) and the Enchantments (2). Any other options or ideas floating out there?
  10. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    touche' ... dig the Rackliff woodcut Avatar
  11. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    we are not that old
  12. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Keep in mind ... 30 ~ 40 years ago, Lib Ridge, Willis Wall and the rest of the north side of Rainier was a bit different animal
  13. [TR] Banks Lake - various 06/20/2020

    Banks is awful. The sun is oppressive, the mosquitos horrid, and the wasps swarm from every flared crack you climb. Plus all the holds are slopping in the same direction and the few jugs explode at the slightest pull. Also, the locals try to run you down with their ATVs or shoot you off the wall. you got lucky finding banks lake on the only week of the year this shit doesn’t happen. 😏🤫
  14. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    We should team up Dan! I always wanted to do a 5.8 rock variation. The climb of the veterans
  15. Break Testing Climbing Cams video worth checking out
  16. Two of us are heading tomorrow to climb Stuart's North Ridge. We have Mtn Boots and automatic crampons, but we just decided we might be better off with approach shoes and lightweight strap-on crampons. We are in Ellensburgh right now and headed towards Leavensworth later today. Unfortunately no gear shop have crampons around here. We called the Northwest Mountain School, bu tdue to Covid they don't rent out gear right now. They suggested we post on this forum checking to see if anyone in the area would be willing to rent out one or two pairs of lightweight strap on crampons (for shoes size 10.5 and/or 11.5). We will be driving to the trailhead tonight, so if you are willing to rent/sell, please give me a call/text at 412-819-7991 today. Cheers, Ven.
  17. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    I've attempted PR a four times, but various factors skunked each attempt. Maybe next years.
  18. The Cascade Brush and Bushwhack Rating System

    USGS has an online database. Just gotta find the closest upstream station https://waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/uv?site_no=12451000
  19. [TR] Prusik Peak - Der Sportsman 06/23/2020

    Sweet! Yeah, I've switched to TikTok for all my trip reports now.
  20. Yesterday
  21. Is there a resource that has river volumes so we can see when the big spring melt has tapered? I was in Stehekin last week and rivers were raging. Thinking about Goode but worried the 'creek' crossing will be way too hairy now. Thx.
  22. [TR] Prusik Peak - Der Sportsman 06/23/2020

    Ouch. Glad you had a good climb on that stout route!
  23. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    I actually liked the PR better because of its remoteness and variety of the terrains
  24. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Getting on the other side of Forbidden is a real pain though.
  25. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Dan, your LR experience sounds classic - Thumb Rock is falling apart and scarring people. I suspect some of this rock derbies turn into a meteor shower flying down the first pitch of the LR. I've never had any problems with the rock fall ABOVE Thumb Rock, although people did get hit by the avalanches there.
  26. [TR] Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ 08/15/2019

    I rope soloed this a few months ago. Due to the impossibility of rope drag in the solo system I was able to link pitches and do the whole route in 3 long pitches and some soloing to the top. I can't speak for the first 20 feet as it was under snow, but the rest of the route was pretty quality. The crux was running with water but there were enough good holds to make it totally manageable. Raps are straightforward. The skiing in and out was bad...
  27. Trip: Prusik Peak - Der Sportsman Trip Date: 06/23/2020 Trip Report: I was pretty hesitant to write this TR due to the current overcrowding in the area. I realized that it likely isn't going to make much of a difference cuz no-one really uses this site anymore anyhow. And as long as people follow a few key tips, you can have a good responsible Enchantments climb. 1.) Avoid weekends like the plague... as best you can. 2.) Get to the TH before 7 And try not to get yourself parked in. 3.) If you start later hitch to and from the TH if you can. (This worked better and was safer before COVID). 4.)Pick up trash you find. Quadruple points for picking up other peoples surface shits, and try to stick to trails and rock as much as possible. Now on to the actual TR Last year Sean and I climbed the West face of CBR around the same time, starting at 9:30ish and getting back to the car just before dark. We decided to keep the (almost) solstice tradition going this year with Der Sportsman. 17+ hours of daylight is pretty luxurious We left the trail head a little after 6. Our packs felt light with no water and no real insulating layers to speak of. The trail was pretty quiet at that hour on a Tuesday. The hike up Aasgard was pretty uneventful with only the usual snow patch to cross near the top. The descent down to Prusik was a nice change of pace and the soft snow seemed to make it a little lower impact and faster down the steep sections. Arriving at the base in good time, we decided to chill for a little bit and recover to give us a better shot at the cruxy first pitch. Finally the sun coming around the corner gave me enough courage to rack up and get going while the crux was still shaded. Unfortunately I pumped out and broke a foot chip so no OS for me, but Sean followed the pitch in style. P2 isn't too spicy apart from the real risk of whipping on your belayer. This is the only reason I would consider setting up the belay a little higher. P3 is absolute money! Unfortunately it has 2 fixed pieces at the beginning that detract from the cleanliness of the line, but who really cares, it's great! P4 I found the step right to be super desperate and kinda just fell onto the far right foot as a last resort, not sure how that worked out but it did. The moves off the pillar near the end of the pitch are pretty spicy. The rope looks like it would slice right across the arete if you were to fall. Best to avoid that. P5 was probably the only sandbagged pitch on the route. I'd also say it's the worst pitch on the route, which is saying a lot since it is still pretty damn good! I've seen the pitch called 10b, but I'd say 10c/d. P6 Oh boy is this the icing on the cake! Such an incredible position to be climbing such an amazing crack! Definitely not 12a, felt more like 11a/b on TR. From where we topped out, we untied and scrambled up to the summit, chatted with some nice folks and took a small nap. We then downclimbed the W Ridge and scrambled back to our packs in our rock shoes to avoid taking axes or shoes up the route. The hike out always sucks, but is the price you pay for the light packs and burrito dinner. We got down with enough light to re-set up camp and crack a beer before the headlamps came out. I feel like I've focused too much on times in my previous TR's. If you want to know our splits I have a Strava track HERE. Gear Notes: Double rack tiny to 2, single #3 and triples in a few finger sizes. We brought nuts but never used them. 60m 9mm rope Handfull of slings and QD's Water filter Trail runners Approach Notes: Over the river and through the woods, up the pass, down the hill and up another hill.
  28. Easton Glacier advice

    Should be fine. A few years ago when I last did it, there were crevasses to weave around in a few spots, but shouldn't be difficult. The Roman wall has some crevasses mid-slope that can be intimidating by July. You should be able to weave around them or, barring that, traverse westward and climb on the section of the headwall above the Deming. Bring & use a rope, of course, and you'll be fine. Have fun!
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