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  2. Booty discussion

  3. New Webcam at Plummer Hut

    https://hakai.org/blog/a-new-weather-station-at-the-top-of-british-columbia/
  4. free FREE AT skis and ropes

    The rope are spoken for. Skis are still up for grabs.
  5. I'm planning to climb three 7,000m peaks next summer in central Asia and am looking to form a team of ~4 climbers. The peaks are Khan Tengri (~7,000m), Pik Pobeda (7,439m), and Pik Communisma (7,495m). These are the country highpoints of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan, and also three of the five snow leopard peaks (7000m peaks of the former soviet union). The trip will take roughly two months, July - August. My plan is to pre-acclimate on a hiking peak the first week of July, then take the first scheduled helicopter shuttle to base camp at Inylchek in Kyrgyzstan in early July and climb Khan Tengri via the standard West ridge via south approach (Russian grade 5A). Then from the same base camp climb the classical West ridge route on Pobeda (grade 5B). When finished, we'll helicopter out, then fly to Tajikistan and climb Pik Communisma via the standard Borodkin Spur (grade 4C). Some background about myself - my high altitude and technical climbing experience includes climbing Noshaq (7,492m, highest peak in Afghanistan via west ridge 5.7 M4), Shkhara (grade 5A attempt to 5000m), Mt Logan (Canada), Denali, a bunch of 6,000m trekking peaks in the Andes, Mt Kenya (5200m, 5.8 north face), Aoraki/Mt Cook, Orizaba, Kili, Elbrus, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier, and some 20-30-pitch FAs in NWT. I've been on expeditions up to 7-weeks long. I have one partner so far but would like to recruit a few more and ideally do some training trips this winter in the cascades. Let me know if you are interested in joining. Eric Gilbertson
  6. Yesterday
  7. I have two of these harnesses that my kids have outgrown. Barely used and in great shape. Both come with carry bag. $30 each or $50 for both. I live in Mount Vernon but can get then to Seattle or Bellingham area.
  8. Cleaning out the closet and I have a couple items to give away: - AT skis: BD Havoc, 175cm. These are billed as all mountain skis, but are twin tips, which I discovered I don't like. Pretty good condition, drilled once for Dynafit binders (Mondo 27.5) - Double/half ropes. A pair of Edelweiss, Sharp, Everdry, 50m x 8.5mm ropes. Never fallen on, in good condition, but are getting to their age of mandatory retirement. One yellow/green, one purple. Would make a great woven rug, dog leashes, rope swing, etc. Pick up in Issaquah Please email if interested: daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com
  9. Booty discussion

    Oops. Carry on then. Yes, please write up that ascent @Szyjakowski!
  10. Booty discussion

    What? I was answering the question and quoted the samplers. BTW- remind me to write up a TR for an unreported FA of the east face of The Professor, Cashmere Crags (9-2004 -?). Dan and I climbed the main face right up the middle to summit blocks. 5-6 pitches at 5.10+ A1. Aid was only for about 6 inches when I thought I was stuck in the summit chimney.... we called the route “why, i think it‘s booty”
  11. Year old thread... I know. I have been going fast and heavy by wearing my ski boots (Sportiva Sideral 2.0) for long approaches, carrying my climbing boots. But it is heavy and makes for a cold change over (twice!). However, finding patches of good snow and good skiing is certainly better on the way out with a real ski, boot, and bindings. For shorter approaches, Silvrettas continue to be the binding of choice for me. However, I have thought about making some boot soles that would attach to the ski boot like a crampon, and then have tech fittings to integrate with my touring skis.
  12. Spring Mtn

    Great crag, but to keep it climbable you'd need to spray the whole thing down with moss killer (non-toxic variety, of course). In reality, it will probably be one of those places that gets 'discovered' by a new generation of climbers every 20 years or so.
  13. Last week
  14. Booty discussion

    I bootied a brand new # 0.75 Camalot C4 and a couple of carabiners off of Stuart and posted here to find the owner. Not finding the owner, I climbed on it until getting off route on the Ice Cliff Arete, got it stuck and ended up lowering off it. The mountain giveth, the mountain taketh. It's probably still there for all I know.
  15. Booty discussion

    @G-spotter beat you to that one! It basically boils down to.... Booty being in the eye of the beholder
  16. Booty discussion

    Why I think its booty... booty.... that’s what it is....(-beastie boys sample ca. 1990s) I have friends that have/had entire racks composed of found gear. What’s funny is some of the gear was found at the base of crags or mountains.... Whatever one thinks, the longtime accepted method in the climbing world is: if you abandon gear whichever way it happens, then it’s abandoned and you chalk it up as experiencing an adventure or epic or keep it silent due to self embarrassment. If you think it’s stealing, then that implies it was taken from private property. Last time I checked most crags and mountains are on public property. So I suppose you are stealing from the public domain when/if you collect found gear or really you’re stealing from the government overlords who control us. All hail the king and return your booty or be subjected to the 3 days in the public square pillory. (Insert appropriate emoticon here). have a great day!
  17. Booty discussion

    Abandoned property. Climbers usually only leave gear mid-route when they are retreating. My partner and I bailed off Gorillas in the Mist a few years ago when we got off route up high in the face of approaching wet weather. We rapped down complex, overhanging terrain in the dark, leaving multiple nuts, slings, and carabiners. We split the cost of the gear we left behind. It's loss was a small price to pay for safely getting off the route. It didn't occur to me then, and doesn't now, that we might ask future parties to collect our abandoned gear and return it to us. That seems like a very entitled attitude. Whoever finds these things is welcome to keep them. If that person chooses to search for the owners because that's what they want to do, then that's their prerogative. In another example, I inadvertently left my helmet high on the corkscrew trail on Sloan when Brandon and I unroped to scramble for the summit after climbing Diamond in the Rough. A few years later, I was communicating with another Sloan climber and learned that he had found my helmet and brought it down the mountain. He kindly offered to return it, but at that point I had chalked it up as lost for good and had replaced it. I told him he could keep it or pass it on to someone else who could use it.
  18. Booty discussion

    "Lost property" versus "Mislaid property"
  19. Booty discussion

    Indeed.
  20. I learned on this trip that araucarias actually grow significantly slower in their native range in Chile. A little research says they could grow 8-10x as fast in other climates. Compare http://www.chilebosque.cl/flora/araucaria_araucana.html vs https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/araucaria-araucana So yeah, they like our climate a lot.
  21. Booty discussion

    There is climbing culture and there are civil laws ... one might to read up on the later before spewing about the former.
  22. Booty discussion

    Professor, what's another word for pirate treasure? Where is kevbone with that picture of Venus Williams' butt? Cause that was BOOTY
  23. Booty discussion

    anything i find if it's remotely near my birthday => booty
  24. they seem to like the climate of the pnw just fine - i see them all over the place in folk's yards - don't seem to jibe well w/ the whole feng shui thing, but they do look quite suessian
  25. Booty discussion

    One person's bolt ladder is another person's free climbing project: NOT BOOTY. Bolt ladder leading up to the Kompressor on Fitz Roy: BOOTY.
  26. Booty discussion

    iPhone 7 found on the Ingraham glacier, maybe 40' off the route, as I was skiing by. I stopped to check it out, must've been there a week or so. It didn't turn on but did once I charged it at home. I left it on for a week, no calls, posted here and on TAY. I guess the owner had moved on. BOOTY
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