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Posted
Well, as you probably don't know, the Great Pacific Northwest is a place where there are serious climbs. Like Mount Rainier and Mount Hood for instance. You probably don't even know about them, and they are in your own backyard!

 

Really? Oh, you mean like the Mt. Rainier I've summitted 10 times and the Mt. Hood I've summitted 5 times?

 

Go on...educate us.

 

Well actually I have yet to get above 5000ft elevation (other than in an airplane), so I can't talk about those mountains yet. But I'm looking forward to an expedition to climb them. If you are such an experienced climber, lets hear some serious discussion about your climbs. What sort of rope did you use? Where is the best place on the mountain for basecamp? How many days were you on the mountain?

 

OMFG you are like Christmas morning.

 

OK, here's the scoop on Rainier:

 

A properly trained and equipped expedition can climb Mt. Rainier is as little as two weeks, weather permitting. Proper acclimation requires a daily altitude gain of no more than 1,500 feet to avoid the deadly risk of PE, CE, or HAFE. For the standard route, basecamp is normally made at the base of the Muir Snowfield, with camp 1 and 2 on the Snowfield, and a 3 day acclimation rest stop at Camp Muir. From there, a serious push must be made to camp 4 just below Dissappointment Cleaver; the crux of the climb. No camp can be made on this treacherous section, so one is forced to climb in one, continuous push to the top of the Cleaver to make Camp 5. But your worries are not over; from there the expedition must wind it's way through a treacherous crevasse field to gain the final slopes at 13,500 and High Camp, which must be dug into the mountain's steep neve. This alone can take a full day. Most parties then gather their strength for a day, hydrating with local herbal teas made for this purpose, before thrusting on to the crater rim and summit. The descent is usually done over two to three days. Most parties are so exhausted they opt for the latter.

 

Good luck!

 

 

The rope, the fucking rope, man! WHAT KIND OF FUCKING ROPE!!!1

Posted
Its called SERIOUS CLIMBING DISCUSSION.

 

Chaps this is spray, there is nothing serious about spray, so you are trolling, and doing a darn good job at it.

 

You are one of those guys who can keep a straight face when telling a joke aren’t ya!

 

Troll.jpg

Posted (edited)

 

 

The rope, the fucking rope, man! WHAT KIND OF FUCKING ROPE!!!1

 

I've given him enough valuable beta. Shit, my post should reap a $2,000 guiding fee. I'm not going to spoon feed him on the rope issue. He's got to learn self reliance if he's going to have a chance of making Rainier.

Edited by tvashtarkatena
Posted

Saturday, Kevbone, is Shabbos, the Jewish day of rest. That means that I don't work, I don't get in a car, I don't fucking ride in a car, I don't pick up the phone, I don't turn on the oven, and I sure as shit don't fucking climb! Shomer shabbos!

Posted

Whatever, you guys clearly aren't capable of having a serious discussion about a serious topic. Climbing is a dangerous activity, its a wonder any of you are still alive.

 

If you're interested in keeping it real, then remember

 

www.minnesotaclimbing.com

 

later

Posted

Jesus, alright, already. Fixed 11 mm lines above Camp Muir, INCLUDING the brief, flat glacier crossing at the beginning. A lot of parties don't fix that, and they pay for it by losing climber after climber in crevasses. Your choice.

 

That's about 5,000 feet of line, so most parties have a spool helo dropped at Camp Muir and pay it out from there.

 

If you're lucky, however, another party who has already fixed lines will let you clip your ascenders into their's. In that case you can use to spool for a more rapid rappel descent down the Nisqually Glacier.

 

I agree on the double 11s for the Muir snowfield. If you accidentally fall down the glacier to the East the only thing that will stop you is the highway.

Posted

 

 

The rope, the fucking rope, man! WHAT KIND OF FUCKING ROPE!!!1

 

I've given him enough valuable beta. Shit, my post should reap a $2,000 guiding fee. I'm not going to spoon feed him on the rope issue. He's got to learn self reliance if he's going to have a chance of making Rainier.

 

 

tvash...its a fucking troll...this chaps person is not a climber.

Posted

His intial query was for Mt. Squamish.

 

Though the geographical names will change, does the same technique apply including rope diameters and amounts.

 

Does Mt. Squamish have a summit register?

Posted

kevbone, dude, i just saw this thead. what a laugh. who cares what people post about their climbing or how much? i haven't climbed anything interesting in a couple of years and i haven't climbed anything at all in months. most of the shit i climb isn't going to raise anybody's eyebrows so i don't post about it unless it's relevant to a particular conversation.

 

lots of people here never post about what they climb but they do climb. how the hell did most of them end up here? including you?

 

i'd encourage anyone to post a TR about anything. who cares if it's das toof? perhaps a note about approach conditions is pertinent to someone else. perhaps there is a humorous tale to be told and the climb in particular doesn't matter. perhaps the tooth seems like a serious objective to a new climber and they really want a certain bit of info. no matter, you don't have to read the TR if you don't care. i read most of them and love it b/c it's little smidge of the mtns while i'm doing something more mundane.

 

but if you don't want to, don't. spray away...the more the merrier.

 

Posted
I was sitting on a couch next to Kev last night. I'll tell you all that every damn one of you would like this guy if you met him. He's straight up.
Metaphorically, Kevbone and I have had a sitdown together (via PM) on several occasions. We be fine. He just forgets.

 

 

(Decristo you Name dropper)

it's all I've got.

Posted
His intial query was for Mt. Squamish.

 

Though the geographical names will change, does the same technique apply including rope diameters and amounts.

 

Does Mt. Squamish have a summit register?

 

DON'T BE STUPID! CARRY A FIRST AID KIT!

Posted

Kevboner what's to see even more TRs for the Tooth... as if the website isn't inundated enough with superfluous drivel...

 

Fuck you. I'd rather see a well written TR for the Tooth than some chestbeater dick measuring about how many Neutrinos he found on Girth Pillar, any day.

 

Someone found my Neutrinos!?

Posted
His intial query was for Mt. Squamish.

 

Though the geographical names will change, does the same technique apply including rope diameters and amounts.

 

Does Mt. Squamish have a summit register?

 

DON'T BE STUPID! CARRY A FIRST AID KIT!

 

There won't be yaks (or tauntauns for Mt. Squamish)???

Posted
Metaphorically, Kevbone and I have had a sitdown together (via PM) on several occasions. We be fine. He just forgets.

 

I never forget…..that’s one of my problems or gifts…..I have a crazy memory. I seem to never forget anything, especially routes. I can remember gear on a route I did 9 years ago, only once. Ask anyone who has climbed with me; I’m the beta man simply because I don’t forget shit. There’s a little chest thumping for ya!

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