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#971706 - 08/04/10 11:32 AM [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010
mountainsloth Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 824
TRs: 26 Photos: 593
Loc: Seatte, WA
Trip: Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss

Date: 8/2/2010

Trip Report:
Climbed Infinite Bliss on Monday with my friend Chris from Colorado. He had a strong interest in the route and I had wanted to experience this wonderful/atrocious route for myself after hearing too many options on it.
Plus it is located in one of my favorite Cascade valleys. smile

We fired off the 23 pitches and 20 some odd rappels in 10.5 hrs by simul-climbing any pitches 5.7 or less leaving only 9 to pitch out.

The route is divided in 4 sections:
-lower slabs (simul-climb first 8 pitches)
-lower headwall (pitched out 3 linking 11 & 12)
-upper junky slabs (simul-climbed the next 5)
-upper headwall. (Pitched out the last 5 linking 19 & 20)

Overall, I had a very good time on route. The only crappy pitches are the the upper junky slabs.
The crux pitches were fun and engaging, but a little forced. I guess this is the reason it is a sport climb... that and the millions of bolts.
We found the celebrated 10a pitch to be a disappointment, while the 10c pitch and the last pitch (5.9) to be the most fun.

Descent was pretty easy to follow if you had a topo and were paying attention on the way up.

The slight inversion we experienced on Monday had us being chased by clouds for most of the morning.

Lower slabs

Chris finishing off the lower slabs

Me atop pitch 7

5.5 gully pitch #8

5.10b pitch

me leading the crux pitch

5.10a pitch

The upper valley below

Views near the top looking down the valley

Exposure much?

1 more to go!

Chris enjoying the views on top

Our summit friend finds comfort in color

Reflecting on the route as we leave.

Thanks to Chris for taking great photos and being a super solid partner.

Gear Notes:
30 draws got us through the first 7 pitches simul-climbing, often skipping bolts.

Approach Notes:
steep trail for 30 mins. look for a cairn on your left 5-10 mins after the obvious washout.

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#971716 - 08/04/10 12:00 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: mountainsloth]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15445
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
All you need is love.....

#971733 - 08/04/10 01:31 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: kevbone]
Captain panther Offline

Registered: 01/14/10
Posts: 155
TRs: 9 Photos: 54
Loc: tacoma
fuck yesh! this route is badass. glad to see people on it. was there any water on the gigantic ledges if i were to bivy or is it totally dry?
I can give you a bitch but wouldnt give you a joint. Bitches aint shit and now I made my point.

#971751 - 08/04/10 03:18 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: Captain panther]
mountainsloth Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 824
TRs: 26 Photos: 593
Loc: Seatte, WA
1st one might have some water, but the 2nd is definitely dry

#971780 - 08/04/10 06:30 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: mountainsloth]
genepires Offline

Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 3804
TRs: 8 Photos: 59
Loc: sharing-hood
might rain this saturday up there and restock the puddles.
snatching defeat from the jaws of victory

#971784 - 08/04/10 07:00 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: genepires]
Doug Smith Offline

Registered: 06/24/09
Posts: 29
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Wa
Nice pictures. I have been looking forward to climbing this route.
I like the cold

#971787 - 08/04/10 07:10 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: Doug Smith]
Tyson.g Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/07/10
Posts: 1000
TRs: 7 Photos: 136
Loc: Bellingham
Great photos.

Please note I am posting this as a joke.

#971876 - 08/05/10 10:07 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: Tyson.g]
Ed_Hobbick Offline
addicted to

Registered: 01/15/02
Posts: 412
TRs: 5 Photos: 8
Loc: Seattle
Infinite Bliss is sicness maximus

#971894 - 08/05/10 12:04 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: Ed_Hobbick]
kukuzka1 Offline
addicted to

Registered: 01/25/10
Posts: 506
TRs: 5 Photos: 119
Loc: county jail
mountain sloth can i use your last pic it really shows a good angle for drawning the difference between i-b and the 99 route.thanks

#1156891 - 10/07/17 08:42 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010 [Re: kukuzka1]
Nowurys Offline

Registered: 08/04/10
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 5
Loc: United States
Hi Kukuzka. This is Chris. Saw this post from forever ago. Please feel free to use the photo for your typo if you still need.
The only problem with jumping off a cliff is forgetting how to fly


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