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#1068197 - 05/15/12 01:21 AM [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012
YocumRidge Offline
old hand

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1181
TRs: 41 Photos: 630
Loc: PDX
Trip: HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA)

Date: 5/10/2012

Trip Report:
WI3+, M4, grade II

Last week my kalifornikan friend Vitaliy Musiyenko, who drove for 11 hrs from San Francisco "to climb peaks in the PNW" with me, and I (Anastasia Blagoveshchenskaya) climbed "Ravine" on the western aspect of the Cathedral Spire on Mt. Hood. The line was originally spotted and pre-named by Wayne Wallace a couple of years ago, but remained unclimbed to our knowledge.

In the current conditions, we have rated it at WI3+, M4, grade II:



“Climbing peaks in the PNW” for Vitaliy got very quickly limited to just one - Mt. Hood, thanks to the convenient access and, for the time being, abundance of ice on the north side thereof. The plan was born to camp on the summit and make day trips for various routes.


We begun the slog to the summit at the unusual hour of Noon.

At the P-lot:


Yes, I do like my sleep in the morning if the "unusual hour of noon" is able to produce sunny skies, frigid temps in 20s F and hard snowpack. grin



Vitaliy (who never been on Hood before) was curious about the famous dog route:



At 5 p.m. , in increasing winds, we had arrived at the summit ridge and pitched in our tent between the rime feathers. At this point, it was really getting windy and I was badly dreaming of my Primaloft (as OlegV defines it, a “fish fur” smile ) pants.

At the camp:




When Oleg, Andy and I climbed the Eliot HW on 05/06/12, Ravine was looking very enticing, so I suggested to Vitaliy that we should go and check it out more closely. So, next morning we hiked down the Cathedral ridge to the Horseshoe rock and traversed the Eliot gl. above the shrund to the base of the Ravine.

At the base of the Ravine after the traverse:


Ravine (detail):


Vitaliy is heading up first 55 m pitch:


Vitaliy at the crux:






Looking down at the shrund and our tracks above it:


Vitaliy coming up the second pitch to the saddle by the Cathedral Spire:



At this point we re-grouped and simul-climbed the North cleaver to the summit cornice arriving at 2 p.m. (after starting at the Horseshoe rock at 10
a.m.).


The summit cornice looms above:


Simuling final slopes:


Vitaliy and the rack at the summit:


Stoked:






Gear Notes:
Used: 8 screws, 3 pickets, green C4, orange metolius mastercam, yellow alien, 60 m rope, 1 Nomic, 3 Cobras

Approach Notes:
Summit carryover
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1068202 - 05/15/12 05:51 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 708
TRs: 4 Photos: 99
Loc: Spokane
My, but you are the busy one this spring Nastia.

The weekend sure turned out nice, didn't it?

Very nice work, happy for you.

d


Edited by dougd (05/15/12 05:53 AM)

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#1068208 - 05/15/12 06:52 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
Cameron Coppock Offline
stranger

Registered: 12/02/11
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Vancouver WA
I think this route is in Oregon High, but maybe I remember incorrectly.

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#1068227 - 05/15/12 09:16 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 591
TRs: 19 Photos: 244
Loc: Potland, OR
Congrats Nastia and Vitali!!! Well done. The textbook dogma that the north routes ofn Mt. Hood require long approaches is now officially broken! The North side can be climbed in a cragging style.

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#1068233 - 05/15/12 10:00 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 591
TRs: 19 Photos: 244
Loc: Potland, OR



Let's discuss if the traverse to the right gulley of the NF is possible. Maybe we should install ladders or fixed ropes to climb over and rappel down the ridge?

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#1068234 - 05/15/12 10:03 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: Cameron Coppock]
ScaredSilly Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/01/06
Posts: 970
TRs: 8 Photos: 25
Loc: Ootah, USA
Originally Posted By: Cameron Coppock
I think this route is in Oregon High, but maybe I remember incorrectly.


Your memory is correct, the route is listed in Oregon High, Route 7A: Stay close to the cleaver and gain the col behind Cathedral Spire, follow the last 500 feet of the North Face to the summit, FA Bohn, Maki, Combs 1958.

The ascent this week was done in much leaner conditions than previous ascents when I am sure there was much more snow in the gully. Looks like a fun couple of pitches before gaining the N. Face routes.

It is interesting to compare the summit cornice from two years ago versus this year:




Above July 2010 lots of snow - below May 2012 much drier.


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#1068245 - 05/15/12 11:02 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
KaskadskyjKozak Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 04/23/04
Posts: 16381
TRs: 86 Photos: 760
Loc: Above Treeline

Nicely done, Nasten'ka! You kick ass!
_________________________
Stay frosty

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#1068247 - 05/15/12 11:05 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
christophbenells Offline
member

Registered: 04/23/12
Posts: 184
TRs: 7 Photos: 0
Loc: Portland, Oregon
what about this one?




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#1068284 - 05/15/12 01:56 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: christophbenells]
YocumRidge Offline
old hand

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1181
TRs: 41 Photos: 630
Loc: PDX
THAT is the 7A variation of the Eliot HW, according to the Jeff Thomas depiction.




"Route 7A: Stay close to the cleaver [while climbing the Eliot HW] and gain the col behind Cathedral Spire..."

The line we climbed was UP the Cleaver/Cathedral Spire and it cannot be seen from the vantage point shown in the Don Lowe photo. The details of the Combs et al. ascent in 1958 (published in "Letter to Author", Combs, 1985) would be however helpful to resolve this contradiction.
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1068293 - 05/15/12 02:58 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
psistrom Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/22/06
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
I have no interest whatsoever in picking a fight but having struggled up the Eliot Glacier Headwall route many years ago from the bottom up--through the crevasses and over the yawning bergschrund and up the steep rock-scoured ice runnels and then, finally, the rock bands at the top--it seems somehow unearned to slip in from the side, zip up two pitches, and say you've climbed the same route. This seems like Eliot Glacier Headwall Lite.

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#1068299 - 05/15/12 03:13 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: psistrom]
KaskadskyjKozak Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 04/23/04
Posts: 16381
TRs: 86 Photos: 760
Loc: Above Treeline
Originally Posted By: psistrom
I have no interest whatsoever in picking a fight but having struggled up the Eliot Glacier Headwall route many years ago from the bottom up--through the crevasses and over the yawning bergschrund and up the steep rock-scoured ice runnels and then, finally, the rock bands at the top--it seems somehow unearned to slip in from the side, zip up two pitches, and say you've climbed the same route. This seems like Eliot Glacier Headwall Lite.


yeah, it doesn't "count" if you skip the snow slogging moderate slopes and just do the technical part. rolleyes
_________________________
Stay frosty

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#1068302 - 05/15/12 03:36 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 3589
TRs: 19 Photos: 54


This is the stuff alpinists dream of. Nice work you guys/gals.









Edited by DPS (05/15/12 03:37 PM)
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1068312 - 05/15/12 04:22 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
ScaredSilly Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/01/06
Posts: 970
TRs: 8 Photos: 25
Loc: Ootah, USA
Originally Posted By: YocumRidge

"Route 7A: Stay close to the cleaver [while climbing the Eliot HW] and gain the col behind Cathedral Spire and follow the 500 feet of the north face"

The line we climbed was UP the Cleaver/Cathedral Spire and it cannot be seen from the vantage point shown in the Don Lowe photo. The details of the Combs et al. ascent in 1958 (published in "Letter to Author", Combs, 1985) would be however helpful to resolve this contradiction.


While it can not be seen in Jeff's book but what you climbed matches the description perfectly.

1. Gain the col behind Cathedral Spire - your pictures show you coming up right at the col.

2. Climb the last 500 feet or so of the N. Face route which dumps you right on the summit. Your summit picture that I compared to mine from 2010 is most certainly the North Face "direct" finish.

I say direct because where the North Face (Route 5) splits one can join Cooper Spur on the left or go right. However, above the split to go around the rock outcrop one can regain the ridge from either side and continue directly to the summit. Which what we did coming from the left and you did coming from the right.

So in my mind you climbed 7A albeit under lean conditions and was undoubtably different from the conditions in 1958 which would have probably been a very steep snow slope. I will also add that I think Jeff has the route (7a) drawn in a bit high.

In the photo shown below you topped out on the summit block which is rock out cropping on the left. In fact if you look carefully you can see the summit cornice.

The face to the right would have you top out approximately 50-100 meters to west of the summit. So that is something completely different and appears to me to be the top of the North Cleaver Route but seems like an odd finish as going directly to the summit like you did would make more sense.


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#1068316 - 05/15/12 04:58 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: DPS]
YocumRidge Offline
old hand

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1181
TRs: 41 Photos: 630
Loc: PDX
Thanks, Dan.


I was expecting a shit-storm on this one so I am going to respond to the psistrom's comment.
Originally Posted By: psistrom
I have no interest whatsoever in picking a fight but having struggled up the Eliot Glacier Headwall route many years ago from the bottom up--through the crevasses and over the yawning bergschrund and up the steep rock-scoured ice runnels and then, finally, the rock bands at the top--it seems somehow unearned to slip in from the side, zip up two pitches, and say you've climbed the same route. This seems like Eliot Glacier Headwall Lite.


You are correct, that is NOT the Eliot Glacier Headwall route, "lite" or "heavy", whatever you call it, and I thought I made it clear enough to indicate in my TR. I guess not.

Re: the approach. Yes, we did "cheat" and slip in from the side of Cathedral ridge, because when I recently soloed the "heavy" approach, you are referring to, I thought it was not worth the time/interest to drag my friends up there. FYI, the "heavy" approach is also a famous ski destination in spring. So, should I now wait until September to make it even "heavier"?
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1068319 - 05/15/12 05:30 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
Raoul Duke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 02/14/07
Posts: 70
TRs: 6 Photos: 77
Never been on the Eliot but it doesn't look like "lite" anything to me. A fine line, well done!

At least you didn't bring 10 ice screws... then you'd really be in trouble.

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#1068323 - 05/15/12 06:01 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: Raoul Duke]
YocumRidge Offline
old hand

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1181
TRs: 41 Photos: 630
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: Raoul Duke

At least you didn't bring 10 ice screws... then you'd really be in trouble.


So true smile. Well, we did use 8 screws and 2 pieces of rock pro on those two pitches. Crazy - what have we been thinking? rolleyes
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1068328 - 05/15/12 06:47 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: psistrom]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 591
TRs: 19 Photos: 244
Loc: Potland, OR
Originally Posted By: psistrom
I have no interest whatsoever in picking a fight but having struggled up the Eliot Glacier Headwall route many years ago from the bottom up--through the crevasses and over the yawning bergschrund and up the steep rock-scoured ice runnels and then, finally, the rock bands at the top--it seems somehow unearned to slip in from the side, zip up two pitches, and say you've climbed the same route. This seems like Eliot Glacier Headwall Lite.


http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=411172
My first official acquaintance with Mt Hood began when I tried to climb the Sunshine and ended up on a snow part of the headwall. I actually turn around a hundred feet below the summit ridge because of ice (I had a single ice axe). Downclimbing that green line wasn’t fun – I actually nearly fell into lower crevasse. It also felt steeper and scarier than the last time we did it.

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#1068330 - 05/15/12 06:57 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
christophbenells Offline
member

Registered: 04/23/12
Posts: 184
TRs: 7 Photos: 0
Loc: Portland, Oregon
i think shes been up there enough to not have to endure the slog from tilly jane

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#1068355 - 05/15/12 10:37 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: ScaredSilly]
YocumRidge Offline
old hand

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1181
TRs: 41 Photos: 630
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: ScaredSilly
Originally Posted By: YocumRidge

"Route 7A: Stay close to the cleaver [while climbing the Eliot HW] and gain the col behind Cathedral Spire and follow the 500 feet of the north face"

The line we climbed was UP the Cleaver/Cathedral Spire and it cannot be seen from the vantage point shown in the Don Lowe photo. The details of the Combs et al. ascent in 1958 (published in "Letter to Author", Combs, 1985) would be however helpful to resolve this contradiction.


While it can not be seen in Jeff's book but what you climbed matches the description perfectly.

1. Gain the col behind Cathedral Spire - your pictures show you coming up right at the col.

2. Climb the last 500 feet or so of the N. Face route which dumps you right on the summit. Your summit picture that I compared to mine from 2010 is most certainly the North Face "direct" finish.

I say direct because where the North Face (Route 5) splits one can join Cooper Spur on the left or go right. However, above the split to go around the rock outcrop one can regain the ridge from either side and continue directly to the summit. Which what we did coming from the left and you did coming from the right.

So in my mind you climbed 7A albeit under lean conditions and was undoubtably different from the conditions in 1958 which would have probably been a very steep snow slope. I will also add that I think Jeff has the route (7a) drawn in a bit high.

In the photo shown below you topped out on the summit block which is rock out cropping on the left. In fact if you look carefully you can see the summit cornice.

The face to the right would have you top out approximately 50-100 meters to west of the summit. So that is something completely different and appears to me to be the top of the North Cleaver Route but seems like an odd finish as going directly to the summit like you did would make more sense.




That is the standard easterly variation of the Eliot HW which is also indicated as a "7A" in the Jeff's pic and which was 200 m west from the line we were on.



The "7A" route description given in Ore High, as based on the Combs et al. ascent in 1958, seems to refer to a different route all together which might or might not be the Ravine.

We were specifically interested in (and climbed) the obvious ice flow along the Cathedral spire followed by the exit at the col and then finished via whatever was the most straightforward way getting to the summit, i.e. continuing up the north cleaver for a while and taking the standard direct NF exit through the cornice.
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1068365 - 05/16/12 07:12 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
ScaredSilly Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/01/06
Posts: 970
TRs: 8 Photos: 25
Loc: Ootah, USA
I see what your are saying. The route 7A drawing does not match the 7A description very well. Whereas your route match the description perfectly. Jeff does a very good of getting the description correct. As such, I would put more weight on it and venture to say that the way is is drawn is not correct as it is too high. Especially, as the last part of 7A goes into a rock buttress. Hopefully this photo montage will help.

What is overlaid in red I believe is not drawn correctly in Jeff's book for both route 7A and the top part of the North Face Gully and North Face Cleaver.

What is drawn in green is what I believe are the correct finishes the the North Face Gully and the North Face Cleaver. What is in yellow the left side finish which is what I have done.

Your line is drawn in blue (with dashes to show the hidden part). Notice that it parallels what Jeff drew for line 7A just a bit lower. Given the description of 7A I believe the route drawing is too high. It is also unfortunate that there is not any dot lines, like I used to to demarcate the hidden portions of the route.



Now what would be interesting to know is how others have finished the North Face Gully when they have gone right. The natural line would be what I have drawn in green. Which is what you did. Continuing to traverse further right does not seem logical. I remember looking over that way and thinking that.


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#1068372 - 05/16/12 07:43 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
Skatan Offline
member

Registered: 03/04/04
Posts: 127
TRs: 10 Photos: 108
Loc: Hayden Idaho
Nice! FA-lite-heavy what ever you are out there getting shit done! Keep it up.
_________________________
Jason Baker

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#1068381 - 05/16/12 08:29 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: psistrom]
Vitaliy M. Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/16/12
Posts: 9
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Originally Posted By: psistrom
I have no interest whatsoever in picking a fight but having struggled up the Eliot Glacier Headwall route many years ago from the bottom up--through the crevasses and over the yawning bergschrund and up the steep rock-scoured ice runnels and then, finally, the rock bands at the top--it seems somehow unearned to slip in from the side, zip up two pitches, and say you've climbed the same route. This seems like Eliot Glacier Headwall Lite.


I am sorry we do not match the bar for you. It was my first trip to climb in Oregon. The point of this trip was to explore Mt. Hood and do an unclimbed ice line (which was only a few pitches). I wanted to see the regular south side route, have views of I-Rock, both of us wanted to camp around the summit ridge (The views are amazing, and it made sense logistically because we wanted to do NF route day after Ravine. Due to high temperatures/avalanche danger, we decided to avoid a big risk and save it for another time).
Anastasia climbed this mountain over 20 times.
I completed Sierra Challenge in 2010 ( http://www.snwburd.com/bob/challenge/2010/ ), going 10/10 on Challenge peaks, and getting 7 bonus peaks. Over 10 continuous days I estimate my total elevation gained to be over 68,000-70,000ft. Not afraid of approaches. ; )

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#1068384 - 05/16/12 08:41 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
Vitaliy M. Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/16/12
Posts: 9
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
ScaredSilly, Oregon High provides a photo of 7a and a dotted line, far from where we have climbed. I trust that more than a very broad description that could match A LOT of possible lines if it is looked at closely - 'Stay close to the cleaver and gain the col behind Cathedral Spire.'

To start our line we had to descend further down towards the actual spire. What we climbed was a LOT steeper than logical stuff on Eliot Headwall. I believe the line he refers to was just higher from us. It most likely follows the ice/snow up through buttresses and has a possibility to exit left towards NF gullies/direct exit, and a possibility to finish vie the exit which is shown in the picture. I was looking at that line of weakness on the approach wondering if it could be a good climb for our second day. But it seemed fairly straight forward and not that great (loose rock etc). With all the honesty I do not think anyone back than would choose our line. Tools were not invented yet. People did not climb vertical water ice. There was even a short overhanging bulge. A snow couloir would not form here IMO.

Whatever the case is I KNOW our line was not climbed as an ice climb in 1958. Anastasia got her lead on this line from the author of the guidebook that is in the works now. I think he would know a few things about climbed/unclimbed.

This thread is one of the reasons I climb every weekend, and post a TR only on occasion...


Edited by Vitaliy M. (05/16/12 10:07 AM)

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#1068386 - 05/16/12 08:52 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: Vitaliy M.]
KaskadskyjKozak Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 04/23/04
Posts: 16381
TRs: 86 Photos: 760
Loc: Above Treeline
Originally Posted By: Vitaliy M.

This thread is one of the reasons I climb every weekend, and post a TR only on occasion...


Sorry to hear that. Best to ignore couch jockey douchery and let the rest of the forum enjoy the stoke from such great climbs with great pics.

Ne poddavaysya mudakam!
_________________________
Stay frosty

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#1068391 - 05/16/12 10:01 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: KaskadskyjKozak]
Vitaliy M. Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/16/12
Posts: 9
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Originally Posted By: KaskadskyjKozak

Sorry to hear that. Best to ignore coach jockey douchery and let the rest of the forum enjoy the stoke from such great climbs with great pics.


And this is why at times I still do. Sorry to overlook the positive comments.

As far as the route goes, I believe for fit parties it is under ten hour car to car day. Great idea if you want to climb some moderate but exciting water ice/mixed terrain. You can approach via regular south side or through the glacier bellow, your choice.
We had 8 screws. 2 were used in the anchor and 6 for the pitch (50M of ice). Personally, if I had a way to know how this pitch would be before actually doing it, I would bring couple of more screws, but that's just me. I used a Red (1) BD camalot, and Orange ultralight metolious cam as well (yellow metolious was used in one spot for our simul climb above). Belay was set up in the couloir (45-50 degree snow/neve coulor, a lot milder than it seemed from Sunshine) above from two pickets. Did not see any pin scars anywhere, or any opportunities to use pins- Rock is crap. Helmet is required.
I actually think this will be repeated, the climbing is great. The setting is awesome. Here in Sierra people would go through hell to climb a mixed pitch like this.

PS: If I would do it again I would also bring some rock shoes and climbed up the Cathedral spire up the obvious hand crack (5.9-5.10b judging by the look of it).

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#1068411 - 05/16/12 12:33 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
shapp Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/12/03
Posts: 1057
TRs: 15 Photos: 431
Loc: finally back to OR
Nice Pics and TR,

BUT.....

Routes change, with global warming, rock fall, variation in ice from year to year etc etc, mountaineering routes can be very different from on year to the next, in general much more so than pure rock. Do we really have to focus so much on who did exactly what when? And to the climbers actually posting a TR, is it that important to determine/focus on an FA? No it is just about getting out there and having a great climb. post edited to heal goucho and kazaks hurt ass.


Edited by shapp (05/28/12 09:00 PM)
_________________________
shapp

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#1068416 - 05/16/12 12:45 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: shapp]
KaskadskyjKozak Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 04/23/04
Posts: 16381
TRs: 86 Photos: 760
Loc: Above Treeline
Originally Posted By: shapp
Do we really have to focus so much on who did exactly what when?


Yes. Since this is a "possible" FA.

Quote:
And to the climbers actually posting a TR, is it that important to determine/focus on an FA? No it is just about getting out there and having a great climb.


"No" for you.

The OP climbs lots of routes that are not FA's, all for fun and "getting out there" (every single weekend, in case you have not noticed). This route is exceptional.

Quote:
And if I have to read another Hood TR this year I think I will puke on my self.


Don't read them. Nobody is forcing you to. I personally enjoy seeing these TRs on Hood that are "off the beaten path".

Quote:
Why don't some of the Hood infatuated climbers go and exploration say, Benthos Buttress in winter, and give us a exciting TR on something really new, or um a new take on something old.


why don't the shit talkers simply go climb their own objectives and post their own TRs?
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#1068431 - 05/16/12 01:40 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
shapp Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/12/03
Posts: 1057
TRs: 15 Photos: 431
Loc: finally back to OR
Actually, ohter than wanting to puke on myself for ready too many Hood TRs, I thought my post was fairly supportive of the OP

-my be for you to come to me house to give me sexy times Kozak
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#1068466 - 05/16/12 06:48 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: shapp]
Vitaliy M. Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/16/12
Posts: 9
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Originally Posted By: shapp
Actually, ohter than wanting to puke on myself for ready too many Hood TRs


Why not check out other sites? As I understand this is a Cascades site. I would imagine it would have tons of TRs about Hood/Rainier since these are the two BIG mountains with A LOT to do on both. If people decide to share their experience(as long as it is not offensive), one should either ignore it (if they are not into it) or say a few nice words (all of us are human and like hearing compliments, especially when we put our heart into a TR). Personally I never trash talk other TRs. I think we all should be here to share good experiences, and inspire each other, not point fingers and tell someone to be more original.
Why concentrate on FA? For me personally it was a first ever FA, and I was really excited about it. For Nastia I believe this would be a first independent line on Hood. 400 ft or not, but FOR US it was a great journey. From dreaming about it back in Hyalite, to improving our climbing, and actually doing something we were not sure would go. It was great. I am not from Oregon, and never climbed Hood. But I had time of my life there (aside from BS on this thread). I'd like to thank Anastasia for being a cool partner! She is very excited about climbing and I respect that very much.

If you are bored with Cascades here are a few of my TRs you may want to check out:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Days-around-Rock-Creek/t11324n.html
even Doug Robinson was excited about Carl Heller TR (check out the comments)
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Mt-Carl-Heller-Winter-ascent-of-East-Arete/t10996n.html
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Third-Pillar-of-Dana-First-Winter-ascent-by-a-Cheburashka/t11353n.html


Edited by Vitaliy M. (05/16/12 06:52 PM)

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#1068478 - 05/16/12 08:41 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
Maine-iac Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/20/07
Posts: 408
TRs: 2 Photos: 29
Loc: MN
AWESOME!
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#1068502 - 05/17/12 04:21 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
chris54 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/15/09
Posts: 311
TRs: 0 Photos: 14
Loc: portland,OR
Nice work! Congrats. Thanks for posting the TR and the pics.
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#1068505 - 05/17/12 06:02 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: YocumRidge]
123tom Offline
n00b

Registered: 02/16/12
Posts: 44
TRs: 6 Photos: 9
Loc: Washington
Man looks like an awesome line, great work, those ice pitches looks so sick! Nice shot of your tent on the ridgeline.
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#1068527 - 05/17/12 10:07 AM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: Vitaliy M.]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 591
TRs: 19 Photos: 244
Loc: Potland, OR
Congrats on your FA of Mt Hood, Vitally and Nastia! Hopefully, it will be added to a new Mt Hood climbing guide.

Oleg

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#1068862 - 05/21/12 12:10 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: Maine-iac]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11674
TRs: 4 Photos: 870
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: Maine-iac
AWESOME!

Can't add much to that!



...maybe...?


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#1069876 - 05/27/12 10:18 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: billcoe]
Gaucho Argentino Offline
member

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 168
TRs: 12 Photos: 124
Loc: Seattle
Vitalyi/Nastya,
Awesome climb! Do not pay attention to any negative comments, just focus on the positives ones from friends. Post every climb with bunch of pics for those of us that can not go always climbing, is the closer we can get to the summit still being in the city :-)
Thanks, Lady and Dude!
--GA
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#1069877 - 05/27/12 10:32 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: Gaucho Argentino]
Gaucho Argentino Offline
member

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 168
TRs: 12 Photos: 124
Loc: Seattle
BTW, @shapp...

Dude, I don't think you were totally negative, but neither neutral and far away from positive. Got interested in your grandioso speech, and had to check your TRs. Buddy, just a couple of river rafting and a 2-pitches cragging climb. I honestly don't get why the need for your comment that can drive people not to post REAL climbs in this site, with awesome pics of the alpine, as opposed to your pics taking a shower somewhere or a cover dick in a gas tank wazup . Moderators should note these "sprays" without justification and act accordingly. Bad karma, Dude tdown
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#1069943 - 05/28/12 08:55 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: Gaucho Argentino]
shapp Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/12/03
Posts: 1057
TRs: 15 Photos: 431
Loc: finally back to OR
Originally Posted By: Gaucho Argentino
BTW, @shapp...

Dude, I don't think you were totally negative, but neither neutral and far away from positive. Got interested in your grandioso speech, and had to check your TRs. Buddy, just a couple of river rafting and a 2-pitches cragging climb. I honestly don't get why the need for your comment that can drive people not to post REAL climbs in this site, with awesome pics of the alpine, as opposed to your pics taking a shower somewhere or a cover dick in a gas tank wazup . Moderators should note these "sprays" without justification and act accordingly. Bad karma, Dude tdown


a. because a lot of my TRs are not posted as TR, but just posts, such as this one:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1015270/Re_something_other_than_Hood_S

Upper owyhee at twice floodstage was weak sauce fo sho, will delete it shortly

b. because I don't put out a lot of TRs

c. you must be right, I haven't climbed anything

d. you should be so lucky as to recieve gay porn in your gas tank cover from Capt. Frick.

My post was mostly about the lack of exploration it seams as reflected in Oregon TRs on this site. Mountain Climbing used to be about exploration and discovery to a large degree, but it seams that 85% of Oregon has been forgotton for a very long time. I would love to read a TR from snow man Jim about skiing a coulier off the east side of Steens Mountain, or about putting up a hairball FA in the Menagerie, or about Dodd putting up the route on the twilight tower in Leslie Gulch, or about mr. abbes solo snowboard decent off the north face of strawberry mountain, or the first time a climber visited hells canyon lime stone, or some other such thing. Not that the Hood stuff isn't interesting, but its on the map, it has volumes written about it, which is why som many flock to it. I don't mean to diminish climbing on Hood but encourage others to seak the lesser visited mountains and report back on the wunders that they may find.
Peace and good climbing.


Edited by shapp (05/28/12 09:39 PM)
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#1069948 - 05/28/12 09:41 PM Re: [TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012 [Re: shapp]
Gaucho Argentino Offline
member

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 168
TRs: 12 Photos: 124
Loc: Seattle
@shapp

Pal, what you are saying is cool, I don't disagree with you. Exploring more is great. But you can post that same idea in the "Ideas" forum (or something the like if that does not exist :-).
In each of our post, at least a lot of us, we do it just to share with friends and family that do not know Hood is even in the map (my folks read this crap from Argentina). Or friends that we don't see for months or years. So to throw the idea of "no posting" in other people's thread because there are other post of the same routes, I believe you push people not to post (like Vitalyi mentioned).

I don't mind if there are 758 post of the south route of Hood, I'll watch the one from my friends and enjoy it.

BTW, nice "editing" of your post ;-) No need to fight between fellow climbers, just a little less spraying and we are all cool :-)
Cheers, buddy...
GA
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