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About diepj

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  • Birthday 03/31/1978


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  1. Thanks for the report, looks like great conditions up there. Did you see many crevasses and/or have trouble with the bergschrund? At this point in the season I'd be a little nervous about that having dropped a partner in mid-winter a couple years ago. At this point the route will be in until spring if the weather and avy conditions allow.
  2. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Yeah, booted up to Pine Creek Headwall. Climbed some easy low stuff over on the left hand side. I'll have to research a little more if I go again to figure out the extra mile to the Rock Creek buttress you mention.
  3. Illumination Rock

    Thanks for the update, looks like all of the Hood environs are coming into nice shape. Now if only the weather would hold until the weekend!
  4. Very cool! I have looked at those routes in OR high a few times and wondered about the possibilities... Thanks for the report.
  5. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    I was able to check it out last weekend. Very cool setting and some nice ice flows in there. Lot's of opportunity for interesting looking routes to the top in an alpine flavor. Concur 100% on the access. It was very rough. With a full-size 4x4 we made it across the private land but decided to stop when we had to chain up to get out of a tricky spot. There were (Mark's?) jeep tracks to the top but not knowing what was ahead we didn't want to continue alone. I always prefer using chains to get out of trouble not deeper into it! The road is steep and rough. There are not many places to turn around... A small high-clearance vehicle (like a jeep) is ideal. Full size truck is a tight squeeze (too tight if you like your paint) and some of the turns are pretty tight as well. Right now there is not much snow which makes the drive possible for such a vehicle. Suby? No way! Mark is 100% right that there are some HUGE slide paths on the road! Bottom line, I could see going back, early season when the snow is light. Fun, interesting spot. But it's a long way from the west side and a lot of effort getting in.
  6. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Awesome! Looks like another place that will cut straight from "I've never heard of it" to a conga line on the road in next weekend. The internet - can't climb with it, can't climb without it...
  7. New forum software!

  8. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    New forum software has busted the google link but here's a cache of an old TR: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:z5c5xJqfK1sJ:cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php%3Fubb%3Dshowflat%26Number%3D518874+&cd=14&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-b-1
  9. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Yes, more info, please! I love that area and would love to check out some ice there.
  10. New forum software!

    My first concern was that all the old emoticons would be lost. Glad to see those are still rocking. Although, unless you have the syntax in order to search, the entire palette does not appear to browseable. Only the "default" emoticons are visible. Unless of course the emoticons will serve as a secret handshake among the "in" crowd of old?
  11. I hammer away with a petzl Quark. Its a little awkward with the curve but seems to do the job. If you want to really weld something a standard hammer and a little more head weight would certainly be the better option.
  12. Illumination Rock?

    How quickly does this thing form up in the fall? We've had some moisture and some freeze-thaw. Got me thinking...
  13. No summit, only the top of the face, if I understand correctly. Not that it diminishes the accomplishment.
  14. question Clogged MSR Whisperlite International

    Although I have never had a clog I have done the fuel line cleaning preemptively and it is pretty easy. Basically there is a cable that sticks out the end of the fuel line a little bit. It sticks out of the end that plugs into the pump. You use the service tool to grab it and you rip it out. (Might have to pull rather hard.) They you can wipe it down or even soak it in solvent if it was really gunky. Then you reinsert it into the fuel line. (Getting it all the way back in can be the hardest part.) If it was really nasty you could repeat the process a few times, scouring out any crap from the line. If you find the service instructions in your gear bin (or PDF online) it should describe this process. As far as the pump it is also relatively easy to break down although I have never had clogging issues in the pump, just pressurization issues if the seals or pump cup dries out. Also good instructions from MSR on that process. While you're doing the cable ripping take off the primer cup and jet, etc. from the bottom of the stove. With the cable out and the jet off you could blow through and see if anything seems like maybe it is partially clogged. At this point you could run some solvent through the line and/or let it soak in some for a while. While it is apart use a fine needle (They include a tool in the expedition kits) to make sure the jet is really clear. You can also use the shaker thing while it is all apart if it its all you have. I would recommend taking a good luck at the jet. Different fuels use different jets and maybe the tar sands you were running through there were supposed to have a bigger jet to prevent plugging. You can't really break any part of the stove or pump if you use reasonable force and methods and it goes back together quite easily too. As I said MSR puts out very good instructions that are hard to bungle too badly. The best part is you can do this for next to nothing. (Free if you already have a kit of parts or 3 rolling around your gear bin or you don't need to replace o-rings or jets.) You will have a ton more comfort and confidence in your stove, knowing if it goes haywire in the field you've got the skills and you've done it before. Everything I am telling you was learned through preemptive maintenance before AK trips where I didn't want to try and figure any of this out in the middle of dire straights. What I am really recommending is even if you get a brand new one for $35 you should still try all of this with your brand new stove in the comfort of your garage and in the company of a few cold ones!
  15. A quick point to add - use caution relating the routes to the hogsback, or interpreting descriptions that do. The hogs back has at times pointed directly into the pearly gates and has also at times shifted well over toward the base of the old chute routes. It seems to commonly split the difference although the last couple years have trended toward the pearly gates.