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About ScaredSilly

  • Rank
    old hand


  • Occupation
    Serious Yahoo
  • Location
    Ootah, USA
  1. Are 80 m ropes going to be the new norm?

    Pfff, been using a 100m rope for decades. It is affectionately known as the pig. Especially as it goes into a pink bag. That said for any long rope get one with a bi-pattern.
  2. RIP Fred Beckey

    Just after Fred's book known among many as "Beckey's Best" came out I had him and friends over for a "Beer with Beckey." It was a great gathering of old friends as well as young admirers. One old friend of Fred's showed up with one of the original 2x4 blocks they used in the wide cracks the FA of a climb they had done 50 years before. It was great to see the memorabilia (both living and the gear). I think my lasting memory of Fred will be his spirit. He was happy to just get out. Even if he did not go far. The NY Times Obit: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/31/obituaries/fred-beckey-dead-mountain-climber.html
  3. Alpinist Magazine Buyer

    I quit buying stuff from Chizzler years ago. Mike initially was a great source for the mtneering book community but then became an asshole. Try Greg Glade at Top of the World Books (http://www.topworldbooks.com). He is a fair person.
  4. Thoughts on Hood South Side...

    Being new to the area and to mtneering my suggestion is that if you are jonesing to check out Hood is to got for a walk about up the hill to Illumination Saddle. As Ivan says get to know some of her contours. Some will lead to places you do not want to visit like those who have head down from the summit in a whiteout and walked off ZigZag headwall.
  5. Good Judgment Comes with Experience, But Experience Comes from Bad Judgment
  6. Climbing bivy for Eclipse?

    You are better off being in the desert than the mountains.
  7. Emmons Cravasse death

    Solo - no one knows where the body is located. Team but unroped - one person knows where the body is located.
  8. Paradise to Camp Muir

    No problem with an 11am start. I left have later. My only suggestion is to spend a night at Muir. hang out until the early afternoon the next day then move up to the flats at 11k. Get in more acclimation and an easier summit day.
  9. [TR] Mt Hood - Cooper Spur via Newton Glacier 6/4/2017

    I have to agree with Ivan, there is a lot to be said about the virtues of the north side approach. That said twice after doing north side routes I have come around via the Newton Clark to get back to Cloud Cap. That too has its virtues. Fortunately, both times in doing north side routes I have had the pleasure of summiting with no one else around. Once was a solo ascent and I literally had the whole hill to myself, no footprints too boot. That said good on the OP in exploring the hill.
  10. Fatality on Goat Wall...?

    Thanks for the additional details.
  11. Fatality on Goat Wall...?

    Bummer of an accident. Especially as a friend's daughter knew/knows those involved. After reading the Mellow Valley News article, which was well written I am at a bit of a loss to fully understand what happened. One climber reached the ledge before the victim, but then what did they do/not do which caused the fall? Obviously the rope was no longer part of their system but why? Did they let go? rap off the end?
  12. Kautz Glacier question

    In other words the OP should not trust it .
  13. Kautz Glacier question

    There is always objective danger. Here this is what can happen: Where it flushed is right where one would come back up on the return to gain Camp Hazard. As well as where one crosses at the start. That said, one does not need to bivy right at Camp Hazard. There are safe bivies a few hundred feet down where the access on to the glacier can be found with a very short rappel. I have heard of some people climbing back up the rappel. But it is a grungy loose rappel. If you are fit going up an over is easy as the descent is fast.
  14. Early Season Kautz

    As an early climb it will be snow. This time of year look at the Furher Finger. More direct. Or Gib Ledges.
  15. DC Route Questions

    My suggestion ... go back and try the Kautz again. More varied and fewer people. If the weather is shit yer not going up regardless of the route. If you want to really enjoy yourself, camp at around 7-8k in the moraine the first night. It makes for a nice stroll from Paradise. Then hop up to Camp Hazard at 11k. You will be there by noon. Enjoy hanging out acclimating, check the route for the morning, and the seracs. You have been there before it will feel like home. Get up and blast the route, carried up and over. We made a stop on Point Success before walking over to Columbia Crest. Then blast down the DC. Enjoy a beer back at the parking lot. As for your specific questions leave that stuff at home. Bring fuel for an extra day. You can always space food out but ya gotta have something to drink. The best chance of success comes with weather. Sometimes it has been pissing down low and we have hiked to high camp and out of the soup. Sometimes we have got the opposite and been hammer up high. Having carried all of our crap we bivied for the night, got up in the morning, topped out, and hiked down.