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needtoclimb

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About needtoclimb

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/30/99

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  1. Canmore climbing

    We (myself, wife, 5 year old daughter and 6 year old son) are doing a week in Banff for basic camping. A quick internet search shows there is very good rock climbing in Canmore. However, the same search showed 8 different locations and hundreds of routes. I lead up to mid 5.10 (trad and sport.) Looking for a decent place for a one-day excursion with the family. Due to the kids, it can't be to long of an approach or dangerous location. Any suggestions?
  2. Trip: Gunn Peak - Barclay Creek route Date: 7/15/2017 Trip Report: Ten years ago my wife and I attempted this peak. She was new to the Cascades and new to climbing. She was also new to any type of off-trail travel, route-finding and bushwhacking. Needless to say, Gunn is not a very good first peak. After numerous wrong turns, eye-level slide alder and miles of bushwacking, she sat down, took off her pack and exclaimed "I'm done with this shit!" She then took off her pack and through it on the ground. Well, we were still on very steep terrain and gravity took over. Her pack rolled several hundred yards down the mountain, only to be stopped by a stream. We fished her soaked pack out the the stream and descended. It didn't make for a very good trip. Ten years later and numerous peaks under her belt, she was game to try it again. The challenge this year is the unknown snow pack on the hidden gully and narrow north ledge. I wasn't going to be deterred by snow or any other conditions. Prepared for the worst, we packed a rope, pickets, ice axe, crampons and some rock gear and set out at 0730. The lower portion from the road was a lot easier to follow this time. Ten years of climbers have rendered a passable trail, though there are the abundance of nettles, pricker bushes and blowdowns. But there was a trail. Lower waterfall crossing. No water, but it is steep down to this crossing and up the other side. After a tremendously steep forest ascent on very clear trail, we reach tree-line and left the forest for the fern and heather meadows. Here, the growth became thick and the trail a bit harder to follow. The trail is below all the ferns, just have to move the ferns to see it. While overgrown, the occasional cairn and ribbon lead the way. Where we lost the trail, we either kept hiking up until finding it again, or backtracked and looked around until we came back upon the trail. It is about a thousand feet of ferns/slide alder bushwacking before reaching the open heather meadows, where the trail again became very easy to follow. My wife was a super-star this time, charging right through the growth and never once complaining about it. The more overgrown it was, the stronger she became. I think i have created a monster! Upper meadows Gunn came into view and we saw there was very little snow. Still not sure about the gully or backside though, so we continued to carry our gear. Gunn is the rocky crag with the clouds behind it. Take note of the snow field below the summit. We reached the hidden gully and found it was snow free! The class 3 scramble, while only about 30 feet long, was almost vertical. We climbed up no problem, and later downclimbed it, but there are rappel options if downclimbing vertical, dirty rock isn't your thing. Class 3 scramble in hidden gully. We reached the upper snow patch and crossed it with ease. It was soft enough where no crampons were needed. Just for kicks, we entered the moat behind the snow field, where the snow was up to 12 feet deep! Now for the moment of truth: the north narrow ledge. Snow-covered or clear? It was clear! Turns out we brought a rope, pickets and protection for no reason. We easily crossed the narrow ledge and scrabmled to the top. The picture doesn't give the narrow ledge justice. It is about an 18" wide grassy ledge with several hundred feet of exposure. A fall would be fatal. Luckily, the ledge is only about 20' long, and there are options of cracks and trees for pro if one desires. We had no issues and walked right across. I can see, though, how snow can make this an impassable problem (unless one carried a rope, pickets and protection!) Five hours from car to summit. Now time to head down. It took us five hours to get down, same time as going up. With such a vertical trail, going down was slower than going up. Using trees to slow our descent, essentially a controlled fall, we worked our way down the mountain and reached the car. Gunn is done!
  3. Vesper conditions

    Is the north face of Vesper melted out? I'd like to get up there this weekend and do Ragged Edge.
  4. My kids have outgrown the Osprey Poco child carrier. I highly recommend this brand as I was able to carry a 40lb kid and gear with ease. Rather than recreating the wheel, here is the link to my craigslist ad: https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bab/6190176219.html I am also selling a 12" Trek bike: https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/6190144459.html Osprey backpack: $120 12" Trek Bike: $100 I live just north of Mill Creek but work in the SODO district of Seattle, so I am meet you at either place. Please contact me via e-mail at kevin@tcd.org.
  5. As the title says. No scratches or blemishes. Comes with a case, cleaning cloth and strap. I can ship them for 10$ more. I live just north of Mill Creek. Please e-mail me at kevin.tcd.org as I don't check this site very often anymore.
  6. Early August Hood routes

    Thanks all. This is exactly the beta I was looking for. Firsthand knowledge of the late-season route. I appreciate it. We will go look for something else. Now, any recommendations fun technical (or semi-technical) route near the Hood area for a party of three. I don't get down to that area often (Except to climb at Smith), so it would be fun to bag a peak while I am down there.
  7. Early August Hood routes

    Thanks. I have never climbed it this late in the season. I'll bring my tools and screws. Worst that can happen is its too icy, and we hike back down, still getting out on a mountain and some good exercise.
  8. Early August Hood routes

    I'll be taking the family camping around the Mt. Hood area the second week of August and am looking for recommendations for a one-day ascent of Hood. It will be my wife and I doing the climb (while the grandparents watch our kids.) I have done the south chute and Leuthold Coulour, both much earlier in the season. Is the south chute still doable? Does it turn into an ice climb: screws, tools and rope? (that's not a big deal, I am just asking so I know what gear to bring down on the camping trip.) Any other routes that I should consider? thanks
  9. Maps

    Thanks. I played with this site and it is great. I then learned from other blogs that I can save the PDF to my computer, upload it to a local Fed Ex Office Center, and have an 11 x 17 printed for $1.50! Sure beats using my crappy ink-jet printer at home. Quality map for under two bucks. My next question is regarding Caltopo. Is there a way to grid north-south lines to allow for a bearing to be taken from the map without having to orient the map to north (using the north-south lines on the compass aligning with north-south lines on the map.) The site makes adding an UTM grid very easy, but not for adding north-south lines. I can do it by hand, but it would be faster and cleaner if the software could do it. Also, I read that painting the map with Thompson's Water Seal creates a very water-resistant map that can still be folded. I'm going to try that and will report back how well it works. Technology has come along ways from lugging around half a dozen giant USGS 7.5 maps.
  10. Maps

    My old set of Topo CD's are now scratched beyond use. Where do you guys (and gals) get your maps from? Software or free downloads? Mazama site used to have a great topo map section with routes already drawn on the map, but the site doesn't connect anymore.
  11. Looking for climbing families.

    We found another great climbing family using this site and often get out with them, but our plans and weekends don't always line up so my plan is to get a handful of climbing/hiking families and make an informal group where any of us can contact anyone else to set something up.
  12. Looking for climbing families.

    I live in Everett. Shoot me a PM or e-mail. We often go to Exit 38, hike anywhere, and ski Stevens. My view of hiking is to make it fun for the kids, so in a couple more years they want to hike, and we can do week-long hikes as a family. If I can get one of my kids to really get into climbing, I'll have a rope gun as I get older! Backpacking trips are short (2-3 miles) to a lake or river. Wife and I carry monster packs, kids carry a water bladder pack. Its about getting them interested into the outdoors.
  13. Looking for climbing families.

    My wife and I climb, ski, hike, backpack and alpine climb. We have a three year old girl and five year old boy. I have found that kids enjoy hiking/climbing, etc so much more when there is someone else their age with them. I am looking for outdoorsy families to get out and play. If interested, shoot me an e-mail at kevin@tcd.org
  14. Looking for climbing families.

    My wife and I climb, ski, hike, backpack and alpine climb. We have a three year old girl and five year old boy. I have found that kids enjoy hiking/climbing, etc so much more when there is someone else their age with them. I am looking for outdoorsy families to get out and play. If interested, shoot me an e-mail at kevin@tcd.org
  15. Mt Erie with children

    Bwahahaha! Hard sport, 12's. You must have missed the part about the small children. I'm happy to lead a .9 anymore. Thanks for all the advise. We ended up going to exit 38 Grit Stone. It was fun, though easy and very short routes. Squamish is on the list for end of summer, need to get our passports. New Millenium looks decent. I think we'll give that a go on the next outing. Oh, and if anyone else also has small kids and want to do some family climbing, drop me a PM. Both my wife and I climb. The adults don't get a lot of climbing in, but its as much about the climbing as it is getting the kids outside and exposed to the rock. If I can get my kids into a harness and on a rope once during the day, I consider it a successful day.
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