E-rock Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 I spilled some white gas on my rope while driving to L-worth a few weeks ago. I left it out to dry after I discovered the spill. Since then I haven't really climbed on it. Does white gas damage ropes? If it does, is my rope shot for all purposes or only for leading? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 from Fish website: Re: UIAA rope test results Author: Clyde Soles Email: csoles@rmi.net Date: 1998/10/22 Forums: rec.climbing Haven't seen the report but there isn't much I wasn't aware of Al Black <al@debra.dgbt.doc.ca> wrote: quoting the Alpine Club of Canada for their work on the UIAA safety commission, and the Fall 98 ACC Gazette: > Anyhow the the dirt is: > 1) Gasoline, diesel fuel, camp gas, sea water, coca cola, and strong > vinegar do not damage ropes . Urine dropped the number of falls held in > the standard test drops by 50%. Old news but it doesn't seem like a good idea to soak your rope in gas anyways (what about all the additives?). Acid is the big no-no. > 2) "An American product (Sharpie) specifically sold for marking the middle > of ropes reduces the strength of the rope (only at the point of marking > however and only when this point is loaded over the test edge) by as much > as 50%." Actually Sharpies are not marketed for marking ropes (can you say "liability" ;-) and it even says on the pen "not for cloth." The only pen I know of sold for ropes is Bluewaters and they control the solvent used. > 3) "It appears it is not possible to damage ropes by walking on them with > heavy boots even when the rope lies on sharp edges. Even walking on the > rope with crampons does not weaken the rope." ... Yep, but I still don't like someone walking on *my* lifeline. > 4)... "wet or iced ropes experience a major drop in edge strength (falls > for half rope go from 9 to 3) regardless of whether they are dry treated > or not." There is no official edge test so stuff like this has to be taken with a grain of salt. The bigger question is what happens to impact forces? > 5) Recent comparison testing of climbing ropes among various labs > has shown that the results are all over the map (up to 100%) on a variety > of parameters. I reported this years ago and Mammut/Edelrid recently showed how pervasive the problem is. The UIAA never calibrated/cross-checked the official labs, duh. It basically means the reported stats are not reliable between brands until the UIAA gets their act together. Some companies have been accused of manipulating the data for marketing but there is no way to verify this. Caveat Emptor. > 6) Ropes used for top roping lose strength over an edge very quickly. "They > should not be used for field work." No surprise. Same reason sport climbing is so hard on ropes. > 7) The official position of the Safety Commission regarding rope use for > glacier travel is that one strand of a half rope or twin rope is perfectly > adequate. Nice of them to acknowledge what everyone has done for ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 its toast, discard it. for top roping too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitten Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 Oh man - that sucks. I don't know the real answer, but I can speculate. Gas is flammable, right? Well if you get too much friction or rope drag - it could be dangerous. Thougth about trying to wash it? Don't know if that would even help??? Until then - definately lead on the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 It might be OK, but I wouldn't use it. Bite the bullet, get another one, it sucks not trusting a rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 For $30 I'll make a rug out of it for ya. Makes a great doormat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitten Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 Hey thougth about your rope situation. Still sucks... Maybe save it for the next BBQ / rope-up, we can use it to start the bonfire. Oh wait that might upset the environs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 def. trashed...any nylon is screwed after white gass...that is why they say to be so careful after cleaning your cams with white gas ( i dont do this but some do) you cant get the white gas on the nylon slings...and also the nylon sheathing on the rope and invariably the core... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 another opinion, this time from Bluewater: bluewater ropes technical manual Testing done by the AlliedSignal Corporation indicates salt water, acetone, benzene, chloroform, freon, gasoline, kerosene, motor oil, mineral oil, paints and pine oil do not appreciably affect nylon and should not damage your rope. Laboratory tests performed have shown no appreciable damage done to nylon fibers by contact with insect repellents containing DEET (Test #0559). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 deet on gore-tex though....uhm...different story... i still wouldn't use it...and i am a cheapo...i use booty gear... but if i soaked a rope i would use it for a dog leash or some shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 10, 2003 Share Posted May 10, 2003 I would use it. Nylon is resistant to gasoline. If you spilled halogenated solvents such as chloroform or methylene chloride, that would be a different story. I am an analytical chemist and have used Nylon 66 filters with very sensitive instruments and have had no trouble with anything but halogenated solvents. I've used hexane (like gasoline) and ethyl acetate, acetone, methyl tert-butyl ether, isopropanol, ethanol, and methanol. Having said all that, don't sue me if your rope breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysticNacho Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 Top rope a route on it. If your partner starts taking too long, set the rope on fire. That'll get 'em going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 catbirdseat said: I would use it. Nylon is resistant to gasoline. If you spilled halogenated solvents such as chloroform or methylene chloride, that would be a different story. I am an analytical chemist and have used Nylon 66 filters with very sensitive instruments and have had no trouble with anything but halogenated solvents. I've used hexane (like gasoline) and ethyl acetate, acetone, methyl tert-butyl ether, isopropanol, ethanol, and methanol. Having said all that, don't sue me if your rope breaks. not arguing with you, just curious why they say not to let white gas get on your slings when cleaning your cams out? they were pretty emphatic about that. just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 Fence_Sitter said:[/inot arguing with you, just curious why they say not to let white gas get on your slings when cleaning your cams out? they were pretty emphatic about that. just curious. As a manufacturer, I would not recommend anything that I had not tested. The sling manufacturer may have not tested gasoline, or perhaps he did and found that gasoline did weaken it. There is polyester used in the stitching and perhaps polyester is less resistant than nylon, but I am only speculating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 kitten said: Gas is flammable, right? Actually no, its the fumes which are flammable... (right?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitten Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 Dustin_B said: kitten said: Gas is flammable, right? Actually no, its the fumes which are flammable... (right?) Thanks for clarifying that one for me - smarty pants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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