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Posted (edited)

Just heard there was a rappelling accident over in Mazama yesterday. The first reports are the rappel knot untied. No judgment or speculation on my part, just wanting to know the details to better equip myself.

 

Be safe - climb your ass off - have fun

 

Edited by StreetBoss
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Posted

jesus christ i hate hearing this - i exclusively use the euro death knot and always make a point of leaving long, long tails (and trying like hell not to rig the rap up on the tails afterwards :) )

Posted (edited)

There is no need for tails long enough to confuse the rap side and tail side of an EDK. It shortens how far you can rappel and adds another thing you can fuck up. I've heard a friend setting up to rappel on the wrong side because they left 5' tails but catching it before weighting the system.

 

18" is fine and leaves enough tail for the knot to roll a couple times. If you look at the data all of the properly tensioned and dressed EDK's didn't roll until about 1000lbs or more even when wet. That's 1000lbs on the knot side which means at least 2000lbs on the entire system.

Edited by RaisedByPikas
  • 7 years later...
Posted

That's so sad, I would hate to have been one of the two climbers left behind. I did MIR last Friday, great route. It can be rapped safely with a single 70 but I totally understand the impulse to use a double and speed things up. Especially with a group of three.

 

So sorry for the family/friends' loss. 

 

Climb on, my man. 

Posted

Strange timing to see this bumped back up.  The navy was doing a helo rescue in Mazama a few nights ago, so I expected to see some news from that incident.  No word on what happened.

Posted

The Methow Valley News had a brief article in print.  It was a rappelling accident on the Methow Inspiration route on Sunday and was a young guide from NW Alpine Guides.  

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