Pencil_Pusher Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 A friend took my two biners mentioned above (the DMM biner I can't remember the name to, but it's the wiregate that is shaped kinda funny) to the REI gear test lab last night. The Neutrino is rated to 8kn open while the DMM is 10kn open. I could only afford to be stupid with two biners so I figured it best to opt for worst case scenario. I wasn't there due to school, but my friend just e-mailed and said the Neutrino failed at 8.4kn and the DMM at 10.4kn. Both were slightly used... closer to new. A 9/16" sling and 5mm cord were to be tested as well, but I don't know their stats yet. If anyone else was there last night, perhaps they could share with the outcomes of some of the equipment? I have no clue as to the engineer questions anyone asks as to the test procedures. To me though, hearing them both break above their ratings was confidence inspiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 I think you are refering to the DMM ProWire ... great biner ... a little more spendy than the Neutrino but IMHO worth .... more internal working space .... just a light (36g) and easy to clip ... check them out if you havn't already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 http://www.bdel.com/bd/quality_3sig.html The fact that one bd biner broke above the rated strength should not be suprising considering 99.8% of the biners bd tested broke above the rated strength.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 The only non-Neutrino's on my body when I climb are 3 light lockers and my belay/rappel locker. I love-em!!!!! I feel light as hell when I'm climbing, and the gear sling is more comfortable. I like this thread, because I didn't know about the DMM's. Thanks, I'll have to check'em out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 DMM's are very cool with that keylock system on a wiregate, nothing to catch on. Too expensive for me though. Stupid brits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 Too expensive for me though. Stupid brits! Blame US tarriffs. Buy in Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 DMM's are very cool with that keylock system on a wiregate, nothing to catch on. Too expensive for me though. Stupid brits! I was refering to the "Prowire" not the newer "Wirelock" ..... Wirelock are IMO VERY expensive ... around $10.50 MRSP ... Prowire retail for around $8.00 ... about $0.50 more than Neutrinos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil_Pusher Posted January 24, 2003 Author Share Posted January 24, 2003 After reading the posts here, I still don't know the name of the DMM one (and am too lazy to check on the internet). But the biner weighs 41g and was expensive... $10.50 sounds high. Maybe it's a good thing my memory isn't so good then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 DMM's are very cool with that keylock system on a wiregate, nothing to catch on. Too expensive for me though. Stupid brits! Actually they are dumb. Sorry to rain on your parade, but they have manged to take a good idea (wiregate) and wreck all the good stuff about it. Take one of the DMMs and slap it against your hand, the gate opens coz of the extra weight at the end. Also the funky twist makes it hard to clip... at least compared to a real wiregate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 Good point. I agree. They suck. Use BD wiregates. Rack your nuts oops, stoppers, on BD whatchamacallits, the keylock thingies. They come in different colors, so you can color-code your stoppers. Use lightweight real wiregates for everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 Good point. I agree. They suck. Use BD wiregates. Rack your nuts oops, stoppers, on BD whatchamacallits, the keylock thingies. They come in different colors, so you can color-code your stoppers. Use lightweight real wiregates for everything else. If you are talking about bd neutrinos check out the dmm pro wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 The DMM prowires are the ones with the ball thing at the end of the gate? I'm happy with BD, so I don't really have any reasons to switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 The DMM prowires are the ones with the ball thing at the end of the gate? I'm happy with BD, so I don't really have any reasons to switch. Nope. They are the ones that have more gate clearance than the neutrino and weigh the same as well as just being the similar strength. Prowire 24 kN 8 kN 8 kN 36 24 mm A208 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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