[TR] Darrington - Safe Sex 9/5/2015

[curtveld]

Trip: Darrington - Safe Sex

 

Date: 9/5/2015

 

Trip Report:

Grabbed a break in the rain with ‘Rockdan’ Jaffe to hit this neglected classic. We had no camera, so mostly a conditions report and sales pitch. SS seems to get about a tenth of the traffic of Dreamer, which is unfortunate. It’s as long and the climbing is just as interesting, with some quality trad sections. If you don’t have Weekend Rock, get an excellent topo here.

 

The 2060 road is in good driving shape, with less potholes than usual. We got at least a mile beyond the 3 O Clock trailhead finessing the family SUV. The fall rains have arrived and the approach was drippy, the streambed slabs wet and tedious. Should have brought some gloves for all the bush pulling required.

 

The first three pitches, drying as we went, are quality slab and knob climbing with occasional bolts (PG-ish). Where Dreamer ventures left, Safe Sex heads directly up corners toward the obvious roof. The line appears bushy from below, but the climbing isn’t at all, another form of the ‘Darrington Effect’. Pitch 4 steps left around the cedar bush and gains a mini Split Pillar that is one of the sweetest laybacks in Darrington. We continued up the knobby 5.8 rib. As noted in the topo, one bolt hanger is missing, but can be easily slung with a wired nut.

 

Pitch 5: Dirty but awesome! Photo by Martin Cash

 

Pitch 5, modestly labeled “dirty but good”, is the longest and best of the route. The dihedral offers 100’ of sustained jamming and stemming on trad gear. The bits of vegetation are never an issue. As you approach the big roof, crimp right to the rib for more thoughtful face climbing. 180’+ of fine entertainment! Pitch 6 starts with 20 feet of steep knobs then ramps off leftward.

 

We rappelled from there, but you can continue up and left to join Dreamer to the ridge. For shorter runouts, traverse directly left to the chain belay for the excellent Urban Bypass finish.

 

So if you’re one of the multitudes that thrashed your way into the Green Giant to bag Dreamer and never returned, you should consider going back for this one… preferably once things have dried out.

 

Gear Notes:

Medium Darrington rack

 

Approach Notes:

Standard full-value Dreamer approach

[genepires]

nice.

 

I thought that the first two or three pitches of SS was the better start for dreamer. doesn't it come within a couple feet of a dreamer anchor and bypass the worst run out pitches of dreamer.

'

 

[Tyson.g]

Nice one Curt! I totally agree about this climb. I really liked the split pillar pitch.

[kukuzka1]

 

Dirty but awesome! ...

 

[JasonG]

Cool, thanks for putting on my list Curt!

[curtveld]

nice.

 

I thought that the first two or three pitches of SS was the better start for dreamer. doesn't it come within a couple feet of a dreamer anchor and bypass the worst run out pitches of dreamer.

I agree it is much better than the original Dreamer start. And it ties directly into D pitch 3, sharing the belay.

 

Jason, glad to help you restock!