[TR] HOOD - North Face - Right gully 5/3/2015

[YocumRidge]

Trip: HOOD - North Face - Right gully

 

Date: 5/3/2015

 

Trip Report:

On Sun 05/03 Dan McNerthney and I climbed R gully on the dark side in the horrendous heat. For the time being, it is the only route which has legitimate water ice left on the mountain while the Eliot Headwall, Ravine and Black Spider are all totally dry and will remain such unless we get a prolonged cold spell.

 

North Face from the Eliot gl.:

 

 

The shrund is still crossable on the left.

 

 

Shedding layers at the base of the shrund:

 

 

Left and right gullies ice steps above the shrund:

 

The rockfall was unrelenting so we belayed the first ice step, as did the other parties who climbed the route on Saturday, and then stayed close to the rib to avoid the shooting gallery.

 

 

Heading up the first ice step:

 

Approaching the second ice step:

 

Heading up the second ice step:

 

 

Dan at the summit pyramid:

 

 

A soloist from Vermont who arrived to climb the classic route of the PNW:

 

 

On the summit at 1 pm:

 

 

We descended the Sunshine. Not a bad option except for the crevasses that are opening up fast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

6 screws, 1 Spectre, 1 picket.

 

Approach Notes:

The road to Cloud Cap CG is still closed.

Edited May 6, 2015 by YocumRidge

[Buckaroo]

AWESOME, SWEET, NICE

[Ptown_Climber1]

I enjoyed this....thanks for posting your report and cool pics.

[ivan]

i thought ole'dan had quite climbing ice?

[YocumRidge]

That's true. The last time "Young Dan" climbed ice was in the early 80s during FA of the Moonflower Butt on Mt. Hunter.

 

But he still climbs El Cap like in the old days.

 

On the East Butt of El Cap two weeks earlier:

[rat]

i believe dan was on the early attempts but not the fa. klewin and bibler got the first complete ascent. dan's brother, pat, was on the second complete ascent.

[DPS]

Sounds like a bunch of white punks on dope if you ask me.

[YocumRidge]

Yes, that FA took a few years, blood and attempts from that "bunch".

[Dillon W]

AWESOME CLIMB!! Very technical, it looked. Climb like this.... I will. BUT LEARN FIRST, I MUST.