Dru Posted January 12, 2003 Posted January 12, 2003 Climbed the NW Face finally on Friday with Fred Touche. Left home 5:30 AM. Left car 6AM. Bushwacked. Got to bowl at treeline c. 11:30AM. Climbed endless snow to 65 degree and easy mixed. Roped up for a couple of M3? boulder problem rockbands fortunately with THE ONLY TREE ON THE ROUTE as an intermediate belay. Reached top of rock bands ~2:30 PM. Reached top of face c. 3:30 PM. Endless descent down west ridge (great views of Slesse, sunset etc.) and followed decomissioned logging road from hell slog, back down to Bridal Falls at 9PM. Fred hiked highway back to get car. Got home c: 10:15 PM The only pro used was 2 pickets and a sling around a tree. The ice hook, 4 screws, 8 pins and 8 tri Cams stayed in the pack. I tried to do this route Marc Twight style, and consequently light. So after packing for the first time, I reread Xtreme Alpinism, then: -wore Schoeller jacket and pants ionstead of Gore tex -took light 38 litre Arcteryx pack instead of heavy BD mixed Master -took Quarks instead of Pulsars (these were surprisingly good in the snow) - wore leather boots instead of plastics -took light crampons with horizontal frontpoint and no antibotte (old strap on Grivel 2F) instead of heavy Charlet Gr8 w/antibotte -left emergency bivy gear at home in favor of extra headlamp battery I did not take GU. When I got home, I DID drink a straight shot glass full of olive oil. Washed it down with beer while soaking in the tub. I recommend this as post climb meal to everyone. As to the route, we intended to do the 2nd ascent of the Kay/Zozikyan. No idea where it goes on the face so we just followed the inobvious easiest line as much as possible . Im gonna try and get in touch with Bruce Kay and find out just exactly where they climbed. Heres a photo of the face from Spring (May) 2001. We had more but thinner snow cover. Our line went up the face on the right (right of the central buttress, IE) just right of the vague couloir that dead ends in a rock wall. The face is 2100m high from road to summit, but the first half is all bushwacking approach. The actual height gain on the technical climbing portion (where we used crampons and axes) is about 800-900m. On Saturday I got liquored up and then got out the needle and spent an hour taking devils club thorns out of my hands. Dont ever let anyone tell you winter alpinism is fun. It is nothing but suffering and misery. Quote
jordop Posted January 12, 2003 Posted January 12, 2003 (edited) . Edited June 15, 2021 by jordop Quote
Dru Posted January 12, 2003 Author Posted January 12, 2003 The rock had little or no protection opportunities anywhere. However, it was mostly solid enough that you could use it for hand/foot holds where a big chunk stuck out of the snow, or stemming up tight gullies. But most of it was hidden under snow and a 5mm layer of "bubble pack" ice. Cornices were minimal and avoidable. Stability was great, no avalanches or cornice fall seen or heard all day and nothing moved or made worrisome noises when climbed on. We climbed on a single 60m 8.5 mm rope and it was good. It was really a psychological gesture to rope up anyways. Aside from the tree, the anchors probably wouldnt have held a fall (half driven picket in soft snow)? Or maybe they were bomber and I was just scared for nothing. Quote
jordop Posted January 12, 2003 Posted January 12, 2003 (edited) . Edited June 15, 2021 by jordop Quote
allthumbs Posted January 12, 2003 Posted January 12, 2003 So Dru, how'd the Twight gear style work for you? Quote
Dru Posted January 12, 2003 Author Posted January 12, 2003 It was the shit, I went faster and climbed better. Definitely the right choice. Thanks Mark Twight! Quote
allthumbs Posted January 12, 2003 Posted January 12, 2003 Even for my screwing around on the wheelchair routes, I've dumped all the heavy, so-called "have-to-have-it" crap and gone super lean. My knees dig it and I've been no worse for wear. Booyah Quote
Dru Posted January 12, 2003 Author Posted January 12, 2003 My legs are still hurting, it was hard to walk up the flight of stairs to my apartment today! Quote
layton Posted January 12, 2003 Posted January 12, 2003 Way to go Dru! I'm jealous. Good job. Did you like the climb? How did Knight look? Quote
Dru Posted January 12, 2003 Author Posted January 12, 2003 Dude. I would never ever go repeat that route having done it once. HOWEVER, it's defnitely worth doing once! I think the Serl route is probably the most classic line. I didnt get to see Knight. Lady was in the way. However, I talked to Guy Edwards yesterday - he went in for a bash at E side of Slesse winter route but didnt feel like soloing it. He told me Spagnut had been in to Wahleach Lake side of things to try Lady & Knight but didnt climb either. Quote
Dru Posted January 12, 2003 Author Posted January 12, 2003 There is now a longer TR on bivouac.com if you like reading about my chestbeating. Look here http://www.bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?TripId=2204 Quote
Dru Posted January 13, 2003 Author Posted January 13, 2003 Yes but Im only half way thru the roll so it might be a few weeks yet. Quote
mattp Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Nice one, Dru. But I think winter climbing IS fun and I kind of like Devil's club (even though I, too, had to pull some thorns out of my hands yesterday). Congratulations on what sounds like a fine outing. Quote
allthumbs Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Why don't you guys wear some of those Kevlar gloves Teddy Ruxpin is marketing? I hear 'dey da bomb.' Quote
layton Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 I know what you mean about not wanting to repeat it, but totally worth the 1st time! Once again, nice job!!!!!!!! Now you'll hold your head up higher when you drive by Hope. Quote
Dru Posted January 13, 2003 Author Posted January 13, 2003 I never said suffering and misery werent fun, Matt. Quote
Dru Posted January 13, 2003 Author Posted January 13, 2003 Ive gotta say though, they are more fun when happening to other people Mike, I would do the route again in a flash, if there were a better descent, like maybe a snowmobile waiting in Spoon Creek or some friends with snowshoes or skis on the summit ridge meeting me. But otherwise the long tired dark slog out was what made it a 1-time-only thing. Quote
plexus Posted January 15, 2003 Posted January 15, 2003 Superb Dru!!! You're my hero!! Seriously great climb and a great trip report. I usually don't finish TRs that long, you know that ADHD thing !! Top notch, and I too have dranken a beer while in the bath tub, and in a hot tub too. Obviouslythe hot tub is better, with good company !! Quote
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Author Posted February 13, 2003 pictures the line as seen the day before Fred racks up at the base Fred emerges from a rock band low down (the rock is hard to see cause it drops away to more snow underneath him) Fred thru the rock and approaching the belay tree on the first crux pitch Quote
snoboy Posted February 14, 2003 Posted February 14, 2003 Dru, is that a Sasquatch to fred's right in the third pic?!?! Nice looking route. Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 14, 2003 Posted February 14, 2003 Congratulations. That's way cool and way scary. Sounds like a "just don't fall" type of climb. Don't know if I would have had the balls to do it. You said pickets would probably not have stopped a fall. Do you think flukes might have? Quote
Dru Posted February 17, 2003 Author Posted February 17, 2003 snoboy said: Dru, is that a Sasquatch to fred's right in the third pic?!?! SASQUATCH Maybe I should sell the pic to Kokanee for their label then..... Quote
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