daler Posted January 12, 2003 Share Posted January 12, 2003 For all those who may be travelling to CO. The conditions are good. Vail is thick except for spiral staircase. ouray is fat with most of the climbs outside of the park in. The photos are of The fang. We climbed it yesterday and its probably at solid grade 6, but very solid and well attached. hope to see all you northwesters out here!! Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 Is someone going to climb the thing behind it and over the roof next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 its been done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 wow really! go on you gotta be kidding me. no one could climb anything that steep and scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 Yeah no shit alex. Wasnt talking to your highness. I was meaning when is Dale and crew going to send it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 I was just trying to answer your question Ray? Jeff Lowe climbed that roof back in the day, the first pitch is called Seventh Tentacle and the whole thing incl roof is called Octopussy (M8). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 of course you can go out left or right or whatever.... stick clip the 7th bolt and pendulum off of it... www.m9ice.com... ho hum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted January 14, 2003 Author Share Posted January 14, 2003 Yo cavey, I'm sure you already checked it out online, but just in case there are 3 lines out the roof. Octupussy of course, and then Reptile M10 or so that traverses from octupussy to the fang and then Lucky M12 that goes straight out the horizontal roof to the fang. hopfully I'll get repile this year but I'll probably never have the abs for Lucky. FYI- for all those who wonder how good short screws are! I saw a guy take a 20 footer on a stubbie in iffy ice and it held. He was on the 7th tenacle behind the fang. cheers, Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 Actually I never looked. I dont have any desires to climb in Colorado any time soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 Hey Dale, Just curious, did it have a screamer on it? If so, did the stitching blow? Have people been climbing the Fang yet? Have fun! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 The photos are of The fang. We climbed it yesterday and its probably at solid grade 6, but very solid and well attached. The fang looks scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted January 14, 2003 Author Share Posted January 14, 2003 (edited) Matt, the srew did have a screamer on it, but it did not even start to pull the stiching out. I think he was saved because his belayer gave him a great dynamic belay. He didn't let rope slide through his device but he did jump into the fall. this actually let him fall very far but i think allowed for the srew to hold. You should come out and climb. Kristie and I have a spare bed and bathroom just for travelling climbers. And yes, the pictures are of the day I led it. great climbing but not much in the way of gear. did not get reasonable gear until the where the rock starts. And yes I was scared!!! I have to admitt I put the leashes on for this one. take care, dale Edited January 14, 2003 by daler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 Hey I don't blame ya! Nice lead. Thanks for the invite, Chrysten and I would love to come visit Boulder sometime! There is a pillar in Cooke City Wyoming that is very similar to the Fang, looks almost identical actually, but has never recieved any press. Anyone going to Bozeman should check it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 never recieved any press there's always been a connection to what's most often published in magazines, and what's close to the editor's office. For the climbs above Vail, it also helps that they're visible from the freeway, and have a short approach. Of course, the local ethos is a big factor too. It seems that in many western locales, climbers are pretty quiet about what they do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 The Pillar in Cooke City (it has several different names depending on who you ask) is 1/4 up from the main highway, visible from the road, and has a relatively short approach. Although it is threatend by serious avy danger on Barronette Mt. However, you are right, Cooke City isn't the most accesible place, and the locals like it that way. It really is a special place to climb ice, and I'd highly recomend it. If it had better rock it would rival the mixed climbing in vail, as Barronette as many little steep caves with gnarly pillars and such. My friend Pete tried to put a sick line up, but by the time he had drilled all the bolts through the roof, all the holds had broken off and crumbled. Anyway, sorry to change the subject from Colorado, i'd like to climb there sometime! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 (edited) How's Rigid Designator? Vail is a place I'd like to go. Never made it while I lived in Utah. Maybe I should come since you offered a place to stay! Anyone want to take a road trip to Utah and Colorado? Have bed in Park City at my Bro's house. Edited January 15, 2003 by David_Parker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted January 15, 2003 Author Share Posted January 15, 2003 The Designator is in fat shape. Depending on the line you take it is grade 4+ or 5- with the big artichokes at the bottom. Keep in mind that the vail area can be climbed out in a few days so plan your trip knowing that. The fang is very wet and should be getting fatter quickly. The overnight temps usualy go to the single digits and then its in the 20's during the day. Also try and plan to be there on week days. Are any of you folks going to be at the ouray ice fest this weekend? cheers dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Fisher Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 I'll be out there this long weeknd but won't be going to Ouray. I've heard Rifle is in really well and that Smear of Fear is fat (at least relatively speaking). Can you confirm that? I'm also sort of curious how fat the ice on Secret Probation is . . . Tr'd it last year and thought it would be fun lean with a little more ice . . . Thanks Jon Fisher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted January 16, 2003 Author Share Posted January 16, 2003 Jon, The smear was fat(relative to most years) but has subliminated away at the bottom. We climbed it in lat Oct. and had to do the m7 rock traverse in to get onto the ice. Also this time of year there is alot of snow at the base of the diamond. When I say it was fat. I had to climb 1 inch ice for 30 feet above and way to the right of a reasonble blade. I guess it only comes in about every 5 years or so. We got lucky. I climbed secret probation it early November and it was a tad spicy then but should be fatter as Vail has lots of water flowing so the ice is good. I protected the little pillar with two stubbies equalized. Other stuff and Vail like the seventh tenacle and the little thang are in good shape as well. cheers, dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Fisher Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 I posted a couple pics from my visit to CO over MLK weekend in the Photo Gallery. It looks like the Fang fattened up some over the week after Dale's visit. Good views of Frigid Inseminator in the pics as well. That one is fun but the gear was a bit scary . . . We also visited Rifle. Hardly anything was in. Stone Free was an itty bitty pillar with no ice on the finish. We did Soul on Ice which was thin but reasonable. Only other climbable ice was The Final Curtain. The cragging in Boulder Canyon was good too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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