Peter_Puget Posted December 31, 2002 Posted December 31, 2002 Any good suggestions for a boot that can go between aid and free climbing fairly well? Quote
Bronco Posted December 31, 2002 Posted December 31, 2002 scarpa mescalito, I think Sierra Trading post has them for $129.00 or so, about half price. I used a pair this summer for approachs and up to 5.7 climbing. probably work good for standing in aiders, they have a pretty stiff sole. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 1, 2003 Posted January 1, 2003 sneakers might be the best choice if you are not encountering snow and or glacier (even then they might be best). five ten guide shoes, la sportiva boulders, garmont sticky weekends, etc Quote
Kevin_Ristau Posted January 1, 2003 Posted January 1, 2003 La Sportiva Trango Plus - they have been on clearance since the new models were introduced. Stiff, crampon compatible (pneumatic or strap), and they climb well. Quote
forrest_m Posted January 1, 2003 Posted January 1, 2003 i know that all the cool kids aid climb in approach shoes, but i've had a lot of luck using an extra big pair of rock shoes. i have an old pair of boreal ballets, after abour 5 resoles, i can comfortably wear wool socks in them. i trimmed down some insoles to fit, and i find them very comfortable to stand in all day... and when i have to step out of the aiders, i am often glad to be wearing a real rock shoe and not souped-up tennis shoes. they are also good for alpine stuff, i can walk reasonable distances in them fairly comfortably. final benefit, the narrow toe makes it easier to get them into your aider steps in those awkward situations where the darn things keep folding closed. Quote
Lambone Posted January 4, 2003 Posted January 4, 2003 Pete, I like the Garmont Dragontails, sized a'bit small. They are stiff and comfy in aiders, and I feel ok on stuff up to easy 5.9 in them. Anything harder than that and I am using rock shoes. However, I did blow through the toe rand pretty quick. Still haven't found a shoe with a solid one that lasts more than a few walls. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 6, 2003 Author Posted January 6, 2003 Thanks for the tips. I did get a offer for an old pair of RRs but they were too small and I am really looking looking for something that free climbs better. I would have gone for that pair at Sierratrading but they didnt have my size. Sinc ewi am not in a rush I think I will just wait hoping that this spring a new shoe will come on the market. Quote
mattp Posted January 6, 2003 Posted January 6, 2003 In my opinion, Forrest has it right. Get some board-lasted shoes that are comfortable for all-day wear. I never thought of using the insoles, but that sounds like the way to go! Quote
gnibmilc Posted January 7, 2003 Posted January 7, 2003 The guys at http://www.sportextreme.com/ got Boreal to make me a pair of the old fashion Boreal Bigwall Boot in my size last year. Very nice with insoles and smooth climbing rubber bottoms and a heel. Very stiff sole, but able to bend some at the toe. Pretty cheap in Europe (<100$US). ~175$US and many weeks if you order them here. They are intended to be sized like normal shoes. Quote
North_by_Northwest Posted January 7, 2003 Posted January 7, 2003 Another advantage to Forrest's approach is that you won't want to aid on rock you can free. You'll free more and move faster, even if you do lose your toenails. Better climbing through increased discomfort. Quote
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