Kautz Glacier - Memorial Day

[brown guy]

Weather aside, does late May (Memorial day weekend) afford access and decent climbing conditions on the Kautz Glacier? I've found more July trip reports on that route than ones from May so was curious what (if any) the issues are with climbing that route in May. I'd appreciate any insight. Thanks!

 

[DPS]

Alex and I climbed the Kautz to Point Success Memorial Day WE, 1999 and had nice conditions. Very straight forward, one ice axe, face downhill on the descent kind of conditions. Met Sobo that trip.

 

On top of Point Success I took my mitten off to tie my boots, and put it in my mouth. Alex asked a question and when I opened my mouth to answer, I dropped it and watched it slide 4,000 feet down the route. If you find, you can keep it. I'll send you it's mate.

[JayB]

I think that you hit the nail on the head when you mentioned weather.

 

The weather normally doesn't stabilize until about the 10th-15th of July, and until that time you've got the potential for sustained storms.

 

Other than weather, the only factor that I would add to the list of concerns would be snowpack stability on some portions of the route in the periods between storms.

 

Otherwise - might be a great time to fire up the route and notch a ski descent.

[brown guy]

Awesome, thanks for the responses. It'll be a bit of a gamble with the weather since we'll be flying in for this climb.

[JayB]

I'd strongly suggest making a set of back-up plans. You might luck out and get great weather, but the typical weather pattern will be working against you.

 

I'd scope out alpine options east of the cascade crest if the forecast looks terrible (like in the Mt. Stuart/Enchantments area or possibly east of the crest on Highway 20 if it's open), smaller objectives in the immediate area (Tatoosh range), or Oregon volcanoes to avoid getting totally shut down and spending all or your time tent-bound, or pursuing an ascent in conditions that would send you packing if you were a local and not under pressure to tick a summit in the short time window allowed by your vacation.

 

A significant chunk of the rescues/accidents/fatalities on Rainier seem to involve non-local folks who are on a tight timeline and have been planning, packing, and training for the climb for so long that they are (understandably) more reluctant to abandon a climb or turn around than they would be if they didn't feel like they had quite so much at stake.

 

Anyhow - here's to hoping that you have good weather and the climb works out. Post a TR here when your done.

[Big Mitch]

I second JayB's response regarding backup plans. I typicallly have 2-3 backup plans when I fly into SEA anytime other than mid to late summer.

[Fromage]

Also check the climb schedule for Alpine Ascents. In the past they have led guided trips on the Kautz in late May so it will be good to know if they'll be up there at the same time you plan to be. Just so you don't get caught behind them on the ice cliff, step down off the cleaver, etc. When I climbed the Kautz it was late May and we lucked out with great weather and snow conditions. Having a backup plan, as others mentioned, is also a good idea.

[DPS]

Also check the climb schedule for Alpine Ascents. In the past they have led guided trips on the Kautz in late May so it will be good to know if they'll be up there at the same time you plan to be. Just so you don't get caught behind them on the ice cliff, step down off the cleaver, etc. When I climbed the Kautz it was late May and we lucked out with great weather and snow conditions. Having a backup plan, as others mentioned, is also a good idea.

 

Last time I was at Camp Muir it looked like there was a semi permanent encampment on the Kautz. I think it is one of the regularly guided routes now?

[Big Mitch]

Mid to late July is the prime time for the guided climbs on Kautz. Nothing but tents at Camp Hazard.

Edited April 1, 2014 by Big Mitch

[mattp]

I think the Kautz was at one time the main guided route for Mt. Rainier. I am guessing that this is because the real difficulties on this route are pretty short (and I think they mostly did it late in the season). It could be a simple snow-climb up the chute on Memorial Day, but it might be icy, especially in the early morning.

[CaleHoopes]

I also think this route may be one of the most interesting moderate routes on the mountain. Multiple glaciers involved, multiple camps usually, technical difficulty while short is still interesting, objective hazards, an easy walk to the summit after the last great technical difficulty (crossing the Nisqually icefall above the Wapowtey Cleaver). However, I wonder if the route was a bit abandoned for awhile by the guide service because the descent can be difficult down the chute and the loss of the actual spot of Camp Hazard. Anyhow, I still really love the Kautz route and honestly can't wait to do it again. :-) Currently, I believe all 3 concessionaires guide the Kautz (RMI, IMG, AAI).

[Water]

MattP is correct. I am a very incremental climber so in my research Kautz seemed like a good progression from Emmons ..anyways in my research I believe I came across info that said Kautz was one of the main ways up the mountain for a time--somewhat like Cooper Spur on hood being the primary route until road access on the south side.

 

In an average snow year I think you're looking at a mostly snow climb for Memorial Day, weather conditions aside. We took a trip there in early June last year to ski it but maybe blessing in disguise wind issues forced us down in the middle of the night. Only because in retrospect I'm not sure I want to ski that even with good conditions...hehe. We did climb it later (july) and it was a blast, but had two melted out sections about 50ft each of rotten glacier ice, but it wasn't very technical, big steps and shelfs in a lot of places.