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Big Mitch

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Everything posted by Big Mitch

  1. Great job! You should feel really good about your accomplishment! It takes a lot of ambition to tackle such a run by yourself. My old ultrarunner hat is off to you! I attempted a completely unsupported run in late September 2004: went clockwise from my car at Ipsut Creek; got to Indian Henry, concluded I was carrying too much weight, turned around, and ran back to my car. Still one of my best runs ever. The running community for these type of runs, although tiny, is much bigger now than it was back then. It was pure lunatic fringe back in 2004. I am too old to hang out with you, but every dog has his day and I had mine. Very happy to see that you are making the most of yours! Good luck on your Infinity Loop! Doing my own Infinity Loop next year as an unsupported hike because the young can't have all the fun.
  2. Check the Ranger report of 26 July.
  3. Anyone been up there this past week? Heading there next weekend. Thank you.
  4. Fully understand how the upper mountain changes each year and throughout each year. I was not using Google Earth to avoid crevasses, just to see where the route goes. Somehow the photo is better than a topo map for me.
  5. Got it, thank you. I printed out a Google Earth aerial photo of the Upper Kautz and see exactly where I need to go. It is much better than a topo print out. Two years ago, we were too far to the left side when we got up the second pitch. From that position, I could not see the Upper Wapowety Cleaver. When we moved to the NE, say 2 pm climbers right, we ran into a giant crevass that we could not find a way around. Once again, I thank all of you for helping me out here!
  6. Kurt Hicks: Will do. You and I think alike regarding risk. I was up the Kautz via the Nisqually in 2013, so the Comet Falls approach will be an interesting variation. I also expect the Upper Kautz not to be passable, but will give it a good look. Thank you.
  7. Many thanks for the information. My climb is not until 1 August.
  8. Has anyone been up the Kautz this past week? If so, what approach did you use and how was it? Was there a boot track above the second pitch of the Ice Wall? Thank you.
  9. Thank you! That link was very informative considering I am planning a trip there end of January.
  10. truth in that it may not be open for days at a time. however to clarify, at times, the weather is entirely unrelated to accessibility, there is a political process/component to opening the gate. I don't understand what you are saying here. Please explain. Thank you. What I wrote was based upon my direct experience. I went to do a climb in mid-March 2011. The snow was so heavy above Longmire that the road was not opened for three days to enable the plows to clear the road.
  11. The road from Longmire to Paradise may not be open for days at a time due to weather closure.
  12. Mid to late July is the prime time for the guided climbs on Kautz. Nothing but tents at Camp Hazard.
  13. I second JayB's response regarding backup plans. I typicallly have 2-3 backup plans when I fly into SEA anytime other than mid to late summer.
  14. The Kautz can also be done with an up-and-over approach where you ascend the Kautz Glacier to the summit and descend down the DC to Camp Muir. However, you have to carry your gear to the summit so you should have your light weight kit down solid.
  15. Correct. A lot fewer people on the Emmons, but will take an extra day due to the typical two-day hike up from White River to Camp Schuman. However, I suggest the DC for an internet-recruited team. Due to the high traffic by guided teams on the DC, all of the major hazards will be well known and fixed lines, protection, and/or ladders will be in place.
  16. For the Kautz Ice Wall, your team should be dialed in with their multi-pitch ice climbing technique before you attempt this route.
  17. In a typical snow year, the Ingraham Dirct will be out by end of June, if not earlier. The Kautz has a ice wall, which is no place for a newbie. If you climb vertical ice, then the Kautz Ice Wall will be peanuts. So your choices will likely be the DC and the Emmons .
  18. Also check to see if the road is open when you want to go.
  19. Don't underestimate the difficulty in traversing such terrain in the absence of a boot track.
  20. We were thinking about that route when we showed up on 20 July, but the ranger in the climbing office told us that the route was out. We went up the Kautz Glacier instead. I would like to go back in May or June, despite the good chance of bad weather, to do either the Finger or the Wilson Headwall.
  21. Yes, camping in the crater iis quite common after ascending Liberty Ridge. Compared to a bivy on Liberty Ridge, the crater must be heaven.
  22. Exactly my feeling every time! Camping out on a 14er in CO is no big deal, but Ranier is a different animal.
  23. I would like climb Mt. Shasta or Rainier in late April or May 2014, and looking for an experienced and technically competent partner or team to join. I am flexible on the dates. I am thinking of redoing Casaval Ridge on Shasta or Kautz Glacier on Rainier, but am open to other intermediate-level routes on Rainier, Baker, Shasta, and the like. I am flexible on the climb. I have taken a multitude of mountaineering (skills and expedition) and ice courses (Ouray) and have been up Rainier (2x DC, 1x Kautz), Baker (CD), Shuksan (SG), and Shasta (CR). I am no mountain guide, but I have organized and lead experienced teams up the DC and Kautz. I am looking for partner or team of similar or more experience and a high degree of technical training. If you don't have a team, but are interested in forming one with suitable others, please drop me a PM and maybe we can organize a climb. Thank you.
  24. I had a big snow year in 2008. Safe to say the trail won't be clear by mid -July in a normal year. But hiking on snow is no big deal if your navigation skills are up to it in heavy fog. Sleeping on snow, however, requires slightly heavier gear. Those records are made by elite ultra-runners. I tried to run it completely unsupported in late September 2004. Made it 1/3 the way cc from the nw before deciding it was a bad idea, and returned back to the start 24 hours later. Still one of the finest runs that I have done. I always thought that a ski tour would be fun.
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