[TR] Mt Sefrit - Lower North Side Slabs 12/11/2013

[ebeam]

Trip: Mt Sefrit - Lower North Side Slabs

 

Date: 12/11/2013

 

Trip Report:

Over the years doing early season ski trips to Ruth Mountain, I have passed by these iced up slabs on the lower north side of Mt Sefrit and wondered about climbing them. After some rather marginal snow conditions on ski trips during the recent cold spell, we thought it would be the right time to attempt climbing it. These are the same slabs mentioned in the Beckey Guide for climbing Sefrit via the Southeast Ridge.

 

Chuck and I headed up Dec 6 during the one of the coldest days of the spell, but we messed around in the lowlands too long looking for ice that we didn’t get to the Hannegan Pass Trailhead until noon. We were surprised by all the ice and just skinned up the trail looking for something easy. It was pretty cold (for western Washington folk) and windy so we chose a little double waterfall visible from the trail still in the sun. It turned out to be Donegan Creek on maps. The lower falls is about 30-40 ft high and the upper falls a bit smaller. This was a fun climb after mostly just driving around that day. At the top of the climb we got a good look at the Sefrit slabs, which looked like a fun multi-pitch moderate route with exposure.

 

We headed back up early on Dec 11 to climb the wall before the predicted snow (which hasn’t happened) blocked easy access to the end of the road. We found the climb a full 5 pitches of a 60 meter rope. It took three pitches to get up the slab and into the gully on climbers right. Only the last pitch was a bit dry; the rest of the climb was solid and plastic. We had some running water over ice in one place to get a quick drink. Once topping out of the gully we climbed up and around (west) in the small funnel to access the treed rib to rappel down. The rap was a snarly mess in places because the trees are so thick. We should have rapped the way we climbed using V threads.

 

Being mostly a skier I have not ever posted at CC. But, when planning this trip I looked here, and at other ice climbing forums, and found nothing about ice climbs in the Ruth Creek valley, let alone this particular climb. One main reason for writing this trip report is to ask what others know about climbing in this drainage so thanks for any information you all might have about this area.

 

The Ruth Creek valley seems like pretty low hanging fruit for early season ice climbing. There was ice on both sides of the valley starting at the parking lot up to where we climbed. It is true many (not all) are rambling climbs in avalanche paths. These are really just ski runs waiting for more snow. But even for a dedicated skier there is nothing the matter with doing some ice climbing while waiting for snow. It seems the slabs we climbed would be of interest to others because of their length and sustained nature. It doesn’t hurt that the setting is spectacular.

 

Eric

 

 

Gear Notes:

Used up to 9 screws per pitch including anchors

 

Approach Notes:

skis helpful in valley slide alder with rotten snow

[ebeam]

Hmm. Guess I don't know how to get the photos to show. There are five in my gallery for this climb.

[ivan]

[keenwesh]

Sweet! that looks like a really fun early season romp. Nice work and not too bad for a skier!

[sepultura]

Nice work Eric and Chuck! That looks sweet. I am surprised you did not climb up with your skis on your back.

[JasonG]

Like an iced version of D-town slab dancing! Thanks for posting Eric, that looks a better time than chattering around on skis.

[Kit]

Awesome work fellas! I bet your ski bases are in better shape than mine for it!

[mountainsloth]

Cool!

[Alex]

very cool, that reminds me of slab ice climbing in new England, thanks for sharing!

[Eckels]

Thanks for the report! Was the last avalanche path (somewhat of a couloir) before the trailhead skiable? How for would one have to climb on the standard north route before it became skiable.

[ebeam]

Eckels, was up there last weekend after about 8 inches of snow. Looked like you'd have to climb to ~ the glacier bowl before it is (fun) skiable. I am waiting for that line too.

[quazimoto]

See any signs of rap tat at the top in the trees? I remember doing that line years back- fun indeed, good timing as well.