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jimmy b

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I would like to climb with the people that want to go, before we go. What experience do u guys have. I am 30 years old and have some experience on rainier and Adams. I just joined mountaineers to learn from people instead of just books.


That would make sense, where abouts are you located?


As for myself, I'm 26 have experience on a few of the cascade volcanoes including successful summit of Rainier. Know glacier travel and crevasse rescue as well as have my AIARE 1 cert. Lastly I'm active duty military right now but Mar 2015 I'll be getting out so I'll have the time for it as well has have plenty of experience being in close quarters, high stress, and first aid knowledge.


Mountaineers program is a good one, thats what I went though.


Edited by ElectricEric
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Brand new to the forum, but here's my two cents:


After spending far too much time on Denali (5 expeditions over 4 years, mostly (but not exclusively) guiding), it's my opinion that most people tend to spend far too much time planning and far too little time training. Your pack and sled weight will be the heaviest of your life, so try to minimize your kit as much as possible. But think about that while you're on the stairmaster, or better yet, while hiking uphill in double boots in the wind and cold.


Minimize, minimize, minimize... but bring warm mittens and boots.


Spend more time researching how to train for long endurance events, rather than finding a carbon fiber pee bottle.


I hope this helps! I'm sure you will have the time of your life.

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Second what Nick and Jens said.


Here is a perfect example of how "hard" Denali is:


Several days after climbing the North Buttress of Mount Hunter (an extremely technical challenge requiring 72 hours with almost no sleep, hanging belays, bla bla bla)...I went up Denali with my partner. We went light, single carrying to 14k in 55 hours.


When we got there, our bodies were so tired from the (still) heavy packs. Our legs were blasted from dragging the sled...and we only brought several days of food (using Jens' idea of scarfing food from other climbers). Both of us continually stated how much harder this type of expedition climbing was than light and fast technical alpinism, at least with how we felt at the time.


Long story short...Denali is technically easy (by the West buttress route anyways) but physically demanding.


No matter how "light" you go, Denali gear is fucking heavy. Even if you get the lightest kit possible, you'll shave 30lbs off of 150lbs. That's still 120lbs to drag 18 miles and 26,000'.


Plan hard and train harder. Go with good people. I've seen too many teams "succeed" by summitting, but they are miserable due to the lack of group-dynamics, since they went with a big group that they don't know.


Read EVERY book you can...Surviving Denali by Jon Waterman is a good start.


Denali is about extreme winter survival, not technical climbing. Plan for being able to survive and enjoy seven days of storm at 14K with your team mates. That is what you will remember many years down the road, not the three minutes you spent on the summit, if you're lucky enough with weather, partners and fitness to get there.


good luck.

Edited by Kraken
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  • 3 months later...

Hey a friend and I were looking into denali in 2015 but both agreed we'd feel a little more comfortable having at least an extra person, if not a few other people around. Are you still considering that and if so are you still looking for people to go with?

Edited by Jeremy.0
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  • 4 weeks later...

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