MrGecko Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 Tooling around central Oregon for the weekend and checked out Moolack as well as a few other places. Stumbled upon some sweet looking cliffs over near Tumalo Creek and wonder if anyone knows anything about these? Quote
Nick Braun Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 Is this the infamous "Cougar Buttress" ? Where abouts along Tumalo Creek is this? Quote
MrGecko Posted September 4, 2013 Author Posted September 4, 2013 No doubt it is, who has the goods on this area to share? Has the drilling started or is this a trad only zone? Quote
MrGecko Posted September 9, 2013 Author Posted September 9, 2013 Kirk would that be a paid tour or are you offering out of sheer generosity? Quote
bedellympian Posted October 10, 2013 Posted October 10, 2013 Kirk linked you to TMG's site. I hear they typically guide Edge of Light (2-3 pitch 5.10 arete). There is also a 5.8 2 pitch called Far East Buttress with a fun wide crack at the top, and a 5.9 5 pitch called Cougar Buttress which deposits you beneath the headwall where there are some 5.11 and 5.10 options (apparently either chossy or runout). There are quite a few single pitch bolted routes, mostly on slab and hard, especially since there is no chalk to read moves. Bolted lines next to cracks have not been well-tolerated in the past, but I have no first hand experience with any of the development having only lived here about 20 months. The trails haven't been well maintained recently, I hear some key people moved away, so expect scree. Quote
NicksCragLife Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 Well I'm still looking for a darn topo or route info for this crag. I just wanna climb! Come on, someone help a brotha out… just rewards of micro brews may be made… Quote
bedellympian Posted July 10, 2014 Posted July 10, 2014 Ask around in Bend... I know someone who had an old black and white printout but it fell apart and then they lost the original computer file. Legend has it that JT and BAG put up a 5.12 sport route back in the day... but that could just be myth. You could always "tweet" them and ask... Quote
crimper Posted July 10, 2014 Posted July 10, 2014 ah hell, this is a redlined version of me and mark deffenbaugh taking jim davis' original guide and adding new route information. i could email a clean copy if i could find it. it can only help, even if may not make much sense until you walk tthe crag, topo in hand. Routes are described from West to East. This Aint No Gully (5.8) Gear to 3 inches. P.1 Start at a crumbly face split by a crack to left of Two Tree Gully. Follow crack to a ledge, belay off natural anchor. (5.8) P.2 Better climbing and good gear leads to a tree at the summit. (5.8) FA Bryan Smith, Mark Deffenbaugh Lash Up (5.10+) bolts Short and bouldery. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis, J. Spreecher. October 2003 Sanitized ( for your protection ) aka Crusty the Clown ( 5.7) Gear to 2 inches Good route for beginning leader. FA Sprecher, Davis, Frank ( TR J. Davis late 70’s ) Hard Candy (5.10c/d) bolts Crimpy and technical. FA Mike Pajunas, on Sprecher (??). September 2002. Sharpen Your Teeth (5.11a) bolts Steep crux. Technical climbing down low. a steep and satisfying crux that gives way to moderate climbing. FRL Byron Roe, Summer 2002. ( prep J. Davis, Paunas ) Gouge Away (5.10b) Gear to 21 inches? Scramble up into a nice, clean dihedral, then step left when possible to finish at “Sharpen Your Teeth” anchor. Nice clean crack. FRA Ted? Shandi?, Summer 2003. Shadow Play (5.10d) Gear to 2 inches, bolts Good mixed route. Easier for the grade. FA J. Davis,Haake ( prep assist Paunas, Sprecher ) The Windy Corner (5.10b) bolts Thuggish arête and face; hard for grade. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis, October 1997. Bolted Crack (5.8) bolts (or gear to 4 inches) Old school crack climb that was retro-bolted. Finishes at Windy Corner anchor. FA ? bolts added by Ryan ?, Summer 2006 Windhover Arete (5.11a) bolts Excellent climbing on a sustained long arete and face. One of the best climbs for the grade. . FA Jim Davis, Mike Pajunas ( assists: J. Frank, J. Sprecher ) Bee Line (5.10b) bolts Long pitch on quality rock. 70 meter rope required (???) FA Mike Pajunas, J. Sprecher, Summer 2001 Piece of Sky (5.10d) bolts Would have been a better mixed route. Some odd bolt placements. FA Mike Pajunas, J. Sprecher Golden Buttress (5.9) Gear to3 2 inches, bolts P. 1 High quality first pitch. (5.9) P.2 Climb gold corner to base of pinnacle. (?) P. 3 Head up easy rock on west face. (?) FRA Jim Davis, Jon Sprecher ( Dave Haake pitch 1 ) Unnamed (5.10+) Gear to 2 inches, bolts High quality pitch with crux at the last bolt, followed by fun gear protected climbing. FRA Mark Deffenbaugh 2007 Ablao pitch (5.9) Gear to 3.5 inches Where is it? Describe, please. FA Jim Ablao, Aaron Webb, 2007 Trick or Treat (5.9+) bolts Far left of three short bolted routes.Least favorite of three Awkward and slabby climbing. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis ( assist: C. Martin ) Halloween 1998. Something Man (5.10a) bolts Good route on positive holds. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis, Summer 2001. Nothing Man (5.10a) bolts Arete climbing on aesthetic rock. Runout above last bolt. FA Jim Davis, Jon Sprecher ( assist: M. Pajunas ) Fall 1997 Smith/Deffenbaugh Route (5.10-) Gear to 3 inches P.1 Climb Something Man. (5-10a) P. 2 Traverse directly left, then up and left through successive roofs to Move onto left wall and climb crack and face to lLedge;. no anchor. (5-10a) FA Bryan Smith, Mark Deffenbaugh 7-24-07 B.A.G. It (5.11+/5.12a) bolts FA Brittany Griffith, Jonathon Thesenga ( prep Pajuanas, Davis ) Unnamed (5.9 C1+) Gear to 3 inches P. 1 Start on Something man. (5.10a) P. 2 Ascend crack system to belay below big roofs. (5.9) P. 3 Move left off belay and climb crack till possible to make cool traverse to anchor in rght-facing corner. (5.8) P. 4 aid/free climb up steep crack and out roofs above. (?) P. 5 4th and low 5th class to the top. (?) FA complete Mark Deffenbaugh, Gabe Coler, July 2007 FA (pitches 1-3) Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Tyler Kamm, Summer 2007 FA (pitches 4-5, and first complete ascent) Mark Deffenbaugh, Gabe Coler, July 2007 Unnamed (5.10-) Gear to 3 inches P. 1 Start on Something Man P.2 Move out right and boulder up to crack system. FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Jim Ablao, Summer 2007 Unnamed (5.10-) gear to 2 inches P. 1 Start on Something Man P. 2 Climb Unnamed P.3 Move left off belay and ascend steep wall climbing onto golden buttress. FA Jim Ablao, Mark Deffenbaugh, July 2007 Exploring The Axis - (5.11a) Gear to 4 inches P. 1 Climb bolted face to ledge or chimney system to the right on gear. P. 2 Good crack climbing leads an awkwarkd belay below roof. P. 3 Move out right, clipping one bolt and pull roof. great pitch. P. 4 Steep corner pitch. (5.10+) P.5 Pull roof and belay on spacious ledge. (5.11a) P.6 Moderate but loose climbing leads to base of OW. P.7 Climb OW FA pitches 1 and 2 with chimney start: Paul Landrum Jim Davis, Fall 1977 FRA Brian McMillan, Jim Davis, July 2000 2nd pitch variation (5.10) gear to 2 inches. Climbs crack system to the right and out roof protected by a fixed pin. good climbing. FA Jim Davis,Doug Mishler, 1980 Silver Bullet (5.11d) bolts Right trending crimpfest. sustained. FA Jimd Davis, Mike Pajunas ( assist: B Sheff, J. Sprecher Cougar Buttress (5.9) gear to 3 inches Best multi-pitch route for the grade in Oregon. P. 1 Start in deep chimney and gain splitter zig-zag crack, then continue up corner until possible to traverse left over roof to belay. (5.9) P. 3 Follow weakness to run-out mantle move on slab. (5.9) P. 4 Sustained, old-school climbing up the corner to base of headwall. (5.9) P. 5 You can either: climb the headwall to the top; climb left-trending ramp to either a, 4th class finish to the top (stay left ) or to another belay below an obvious OW. P. 6 Finish up OW. (rating???) FA Paul Landrum, Dave Mention, Fall 1976. X Route (5.11a) bolts Quality climb up technical face. FA unknown, 1995? Cougar Headwall (5.11c) Gear to 2 inches Stellar face/crack climb up the center of the headwall. FFA Mark Deffenbaugh, Ryan Brophy, summer 2007 FA TR Jim Davis 1996 Cougar Headwall West (5.9 C1) Gear to 3 inches FFA Mark Deffenbaugh, Chris Vaughn., July 1, 2008 FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Josh Lagalo, J. june 30, 2008 (5.10-??).9 C1) Cougar Express (5.10-) gear to 3 inches P. 1 Climb first two pitches of Cougar Buttress to anchor on ledge. (5.9) P. 2 TraverseMove out right and climb steep but short crack out roof;. fFinish at to the anchor on Yardsale anchor. (5.10a) P. 3 Spicy move off belay gives way to moderate crack climbing. (5.9) P. 4 Slabby fFace climbing with decentok gear to anchor at base of deep chimney on right side of headwall. (5.7) P. 5 Work up cChimney, traverse right around roof, then continue up chimney feature to reach 4th class exit to summit and natural anchor. and grovel to top. (5.10a) FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Summer 2007 X Route (5.11a) bolts Quality climb up technical face. FA unknown, 1995? Yardsale (5.10-) Gear to 3 inches P. 1 Chimney and face climb uppast bolts, then make an airy move up and left to nice ledge on main wall. (5-10a) P. 2 Follow Ccorner up climbing that leads into to a steep hand crack, then head up and left through your choice of cracks to a big ledge. (5.10a) P. 3 Move right off belay and climb beautiful face on gear. (5.9) P. 4 Slab cClimb right across runout but easy slab right until you gain left facing dihedral; natural anchor on ledge above. (5.7) P. 5 Steep move off belay (don’t remember this) leads to heinous adventrure cascade-choss climbing. (5.?) FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Summer 2006 Cool Cat (5.10d/11a) bolts Nice long pitch with the hardest moves near the start. FA MIke Pajunas, J. Sprecher Edge of Light (5.10a) Gear to 2 inches, bolts Good climb with the second pitch being a favorite for the grade. P. 1 Start on three bolts, then finish up crack (5.9) P. 2 Move right and ascend beautiful face past horizontal cracks and a roof. (5.10a) FA Jim Davis, Mike Pajunas. Jon Sprecher, Summer 2000 Unnamed (5.10-) gear to 2inches P. 1 Start on Something Man P. 2 Climb Unnamed P.3 Move left off belay and ascend steep wall climbing onto golden buttress. FA Jim Ablao, Mark Deffenbaugh, July 2007 Exploring The Axis - (5.11a) Gear to 4 inches P. 1 Climb bolted face to ledge or chimney system to the right on gear. P. 2 Good crack climbing leads an awkwarkd belay below roof. P. 3 Move out right, clipping one bolt and pull roof. great pitch. P. 4 Steep corner pitch. (5.10+) P.5 Pull roof and belay on spacious ledge. (5.11a) P.6 Moderate but loose climbing leads to base of OW. P.7 Climb OW FA pitches 1 and 2 with chimney start: Paul Landrum Jim Davis, Fall 1977 FRA Brian McMillan, Jim Davis, July 2000 2nd pitch variation (5.10) gear to 2 inches. Climbs crack system to the right and out roof protected by a fixed pin. good climbing. FA Jim Davis,Doug Mishler, 1980 Silver Bullet (5.11d) bolts Right trending crimpfest. sustained. FA Jimd Davis, Mike Pajunas ( assist: B Sheff, J. Sprecher Cougar Buttress (5.9) gear to 3 inches Best multi-pitch route for the grade in Oregon. P. 1 start in deep chimney and gain splitter crack. P. 2 Continue up corner until possible to traverse left over roof to belay. P. 3 Follow weakness to run-out mantle move on slab. P. 4 Sustained, old-school climbing up left-facing corner. P. 5 You can either: climb the headwall to the top; climb left-trending ramp to either a, 4th class finish to the top (stay left ) or to another belay below an obvious OW. P. 6 Finish up OW. FA Paul Landrum, Dave Mention, Fall 1976. Cat Power (5.11b) bolts Short and mean. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis, Summer 2001 Coler/Kamm Chimney (5.9) Gear to 3 inches FA Gabe Coler, Tyler Kamm, Summer 2007 The Dark Side (5.10-) Gear to 3 inches P. 1 Climb squeeze chimney P. 2 Face climbing on dark water streak. Finish on east side of Edge of Light anchor. FA Gabe Coler, Mark Deffenbaugh 2007 Konaan (5.10a) bolts Can be climbed on either side of the bolt line. If staying right, expect an aAesthetic climb on granite-esque patinas and a heavily- featured face. If staying left, expect slightly harder climbing through a little bulge. FA Jon Sprecher, Jim Davis, David Haake, Summer 1997 Chimney (5.6) Gear to 3 inches Fun climbing up moderate chimney. (in order to place gear, I found difficulties more like 5.8. my two cents) FA Unknown Surgical Focus (5.11a) bolts Excellent steep crimpfest. FA Jim Davis ( assist: Alumbaugh, Foff, Frank ) Surgical Focus Slight Return (5.11b) bolts Logical finish to Surgical Focus, continuing oward to Tova anchor. FRL Jonathon Thesenga Tova (5.10b) bolts Long steep arete on high quality rock. FA Jim Davis, Jon Sprecher ( assist: B Sheff, J. Rich ) Spring 2007 Lost Ponderosa Route (5.8) Gear to 3 inches FA Paul Landrum, Taylor, Fall 1976 Nazarian/Hymen Route (5.9) gear to 3 inches FA Wil Nazarian, Mai Hymen, Kevin Prince, Summer 2006 Deffenbaugh/Smith Route (5.9) gear to 5 inches P. 1 Wide crack climbing. (5.9) P. 2 Face and crack climbing to natural anchor below big roofs. (5.8) FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Summer 2006 Chris’’s Route (5.9) Gear to ? FA Chris Vaughnn (sp?) Mai’s Chimney (5.9) gear to 3 inches P.1 Face climb to ledge below chimney. P.2 Chimney to top. FA Mai Hymen, Peter ? Summer 2006 Pagan Animal Sacrifice (5.9/10a) bolts Ok route FA Jon L. Sprecher, September 2002 Tripping With a Purple Flower (5.10a) bolts Ok route FA Mike Pajunas, Jon Sprecher, Summer 1999 Landrum’s 10c (5.10d) bolts Old-school ground up bolted face climb. Techy moves over roof give way to classic slab climbing. FA Paul Landrum, Jim Davis, Fall 1977 Not now Kato (5.10a) bolts Pull roof and head up aesthetic face and arete. FA Mike Pajunas, Jon Sprecher, Summer 1999 Track Of the Cat (5.10c) bolts Long route that climbs over a few roofs with multiple cruxes. FA Jim Davis, J. Srecher ( assist: H. Sprecher, J. Frank ) Summer 2001 Quick Karma (5.9/5.10a) Gear to 2 inches, bolts Worthy mixed route. FA Jon and Hans Sprecher, Summer 2002 Zoom In (5.10d) bolts Sketchy first pitch with a classic second pitch. FA Mike Pajunas, Jon Sprecher, Jim Davis, Fall 2000 Golden Touch (5.10d) bolts Mike Pajunas ( assist: J. Sprecher ) Summer 2001 Far East Buttress (5.8) Gear to 4 inches Classic two pitch moderate. FRA Jim Davis, Jon Sprecher, Fall 2000 Tumalo Tower, NE Arete (5.9) bolts Insecure and awkward. Not the best climb, but a great summit. FA Jim Davis, Mike Pajunas, Jon Sprecher, June 1998 Quote
crimper Posted July 10, 2014 Posted July 10, 2014 I also have photos with multi-pitch routes drawn in with colored lines. just not sure how to post them, although i could email them to anyone who PMs me. cougar is such a great alternative to smith in the summer, i'd love to aid people in getting out there and having some adventures. there is so much potential for routes out there, still... Quote
MrGecko Posted September 4, 2014 Author Posted September 4, 2014 Crimper email me the pics I'll post them for you. t @ miraiusa . com Quote
beaconben Posted September 17, 2014 Posted September 17, 2014 Hey Brian, what is the name of that awesome 5.9 multipitch? That is a must do. Quote
crimper Posted September 19, 2014 Posted September 19, 2014 Hey Ben! I think it's just called the Cougar Buttress. I was told it went up in the late 1970s as it was the most obvious crack system from the base to the summit. "We" considered it the best 5-9 multi in Oregon, or at least way better than any 5-8 or 5-9 multis at Smith (White Satin, Wherever I May Roam, Thin Air, Solar, etc. are nowhere near as good or sustained). Picture the last pitch on Zebra Zion in terms of difficulty, positive holds and gear quality, then make it 350 feet long and all reasonably protected with trad gear and bolted anchors. No runouts at all, just stout solid cracks to protect. Then add a one pitch summitting option of either a 4th class weasel exit, a great 5-9 chimney crack (Ben you did that), 5-10 rising traverse crack or 5-11c finger and hand crack through a roof, so you don't have to rap off. Wish I was there right now... Quote
crimper Posted September 19, 2014 Posted September 19, 2014 I finally posted a photo! Look out. The Cougar Buttress 5-9 starts on the wall just right of the black midway line on the photo, and more or less goes straight up to the right of that black line, then cuts right to the wide looking corner system that angles up and left to gain the base of the shiny headwall at the very top of the buttress. There is a huge ledge at the base of that headwall - which is about 80/90 feet tall, believe it or not. The 5-11 crack goes directly up the headwall, the 5-9 chimney splits the right side (you can see it, and it takes normal sized gear), a 5-10 crack splits the left side of the headwall, and the 4th class exit weasels out to the left of the headwall. Mark D and I put up a multi in the next crack system to the right, one buttress over: Yardsale, 10a. The second pitch follows the striking crack system, then the route eventually angles leftward to gain the ledge at the base of the headwall. Yardsale is a bit harder than the Cougar Buttress and a little more adventurous, but protects reasonably. I'm not sure if anyone does it, though...even though it has bolted anchors... Quote
crimper Posted September 19, 2014 Posted September 19, 2014 If I were more tech savvy this would look better, but: the green line is the 5-9 Cougar Buttress. The Yellow and purple lines show Yardsale, including a couple variations we came up with. The yellow line is the way to go on the second half of the route. We went that way after scaring ourselves on the easier but scary terrain shown by the purple line. Yardsale proper starts on purple, then sticks with yellow once you hit yellow. I am so surprised more climbers don't climb here. Quote
mksportn Posted September 29, 2014 Posted September 29, 2014 The main reason people don't climb here is that hardly anyone knows about it. I think it would be worth putting on Mountain Project. Quote
crimper Posted September 30, 2014 Posted September 30, 2014 Ask Micah Klesick, he's an administrator with Mt. project now and could probably make it happen. Quote
wimsey Posted September 30, 2014 Posted September 30, 2014 The main reason few people climb there is the climbing just isn't that good. Sure, there's a few fun pitches. Folks spend a few days or a week and then move on. It will never be overrun with crowds, and that is pretty much its best attribute. Quote
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