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Posted (edited)

Trip: Mt. Shuksan - North Face (car-to-car)

 

Date: 6/9/2013

 

Trip Report:

Yesterday, I joined Dan Aylward and Chad Kellogg on a climb of Mt. Shuksan's dramatic North Face. It was a great 14 hour car-to-car adventure!

 

Below are some of the key overlays and photos. I've posted a full trip report (overlays, photos, maps, etc) on my website: http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/shuksan2

 

Route overlay:

[img:center]http://images.summitpost.org/medium/852477.jpg[/img]

 

An aerial photo of the North Face I took on a flight with John Scurlock three days before our climb (I've posted the full route on my website):

[img:center]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5348/8982666203_f993c2ae5f_c.jpg[/img]

 

Video taken while climbing the North Face:

[video:youtube]uprXDxbgQq4

 

Some photos:

 

The upper White Salmon Valley. The North Face is on the left skyline above the saddle.

9006515715_e95953d1e2_c.jpg

 

Chad and Dan traversing left across the base of the North Face. Let the fun begin!

9006516009_4950f45a7d_c.jpg

 

Heading up the North Face. We were surprised to find the entire face lit in the morning sun (we had expected it to be in the shade due to its northern aspect), but since it was still early in the day the snow was firm, and the runnels made for great ascent lines.

9007697784_35a4cc419c_c.jpg

 

Dan on the North Face. The face is somewhat steep, 40-50°. But the snow was good enough to allow a comfortable unroped ascent. In a couple of more hours it would transition from ideal to dangerous, so we were glad for the early start and encouraged to move quickly. It took us just over two hours to ascend the face from its base to the North Shoulder.

9007698524_aee9010e29_c.jpg

 

The gully up the south side of the summit pyramid, part of the popular Sulphide Glacier route.

9006518027_1b4f0f1abe_c.jpg

 

Chad looking down the White Salmon Glacier, our descent route. Chad and Dan were probably bemoaning the fact they had done this climb with a non-skier such as myself!

9008616967_6c3d76f257_c.jpg

 

Is this iPhone yours? Found buried in the snow on the slopes below Chair 8. I dried it out and charged it up and it still works!

9007700964_b4933ee074_c.jpg

 

Edited by Steph_Abegg
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Posted (edited)

Here's Steph, Chad, and Dan looking good on the the summit. They came screaming past us near the top of the summit snow gulley. Hey Dan, what's the scoop on those blue climbing gloves?

 

DSC04046.JPG

Edited by jstreet
Posted
I hear Chad Kellogg only has to breathe once a minute when climbing in the Cascades. Is that true? Great photos! Nice trip.

 

only if he's running full speed.

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