Triple Couloirs

[COL._Von_Spanker]

Anyone gotten a look at the route lately? Any projections as to how it might look this weekend?

[sexual_chocolate]

Well, this sport-climber/boulderer has the impression that it doesn't come into real good shape until late winter/early spring. I tried it last year in Feb? and encountered tons of unconsolidated snow. March/April is best????

Although I don't see why you couldn't do it any time of year....

[Lambone]

You could probably expect it tobe loaded with a good amount of windblown snow on top of an ice crust. So if you like that sortathing...go for it!

[mattp]

I agree with the others: this weekend would be a little early in the season for that one and probably not a particularly good weekend for any alpine route. Even on the east slope, there will be at least a foot of new windblown and unconsolidated snow in the mountains that will cover the rocks but offer nothing of any substance to climb on and predicted ongoing storms are likely to mean zero visibility as well. In these conditions, even a boulder field is treacherous and any technical climbing will be at it's most difficult. Triple Couloirs, while not an extremely demanding technical route, would be damn hard right now and difficult or impossible to protect. That's not to say that you couldn't scratch your way up it if you were really determined to do so, but this weekend I'd opt for something only minimally technical or short enough that you will have plenty of time to wander around looking for the route and for pro while you spin your wheels on snow-covered rock or, in gullies, wallow your way upward.

[thelawgoddess]

thanks, mattp - you font of knowledge! i tried to tell the spanker the same thing ... but not in so many well-written matter-of-fact words.

 

the good thing is that this front (and hopefully a few to follow) will bring that snow (and ice) so many of us want to make some of those alpine routes "go". i think someone on this website once told me to just be patient ...

 

btw, if anybody's looking for something fun to do saturday night, vertical world (redmond) is having a bouldering comp. come play!

[sexual_chocolate]

How much does it cost, and what's the prize list? Can trask win a date with you?

[thelawgoddess]

for bouldering comp info, see new thread ... trying to keep this one sort of on-topic.

[COL._Von_Spanker]

Just trying to keep on top of how it's all forming up.

[plexus]

RE:i think someone on this website once told me to just be patient ...

 

Nope I think that was Trask telling you to be the patient. He wanted to play doctor

[plexus]

Col.

 

I think you're just gonna have to play inside this weekend. As for me, I'm gonna set some new routes on my woodie. It's been so nice outside lately, I haven't really had a chance to mess around with it.

 

God, talk about the Freudisms in my post

[thelawgoddess]

that's what this board is all about - keeping each other on top and real. let me know when you find the ice!!!

[Cpt.Caveman]

To climb the direct non north face variation of Triple Coolers one should ascend the slabs prior to the end of the Hidden Couloir. This usually requires some ice to be on them. The ice usually forms from snow melting out of the gulleys and down on the slabs. A number of people climbed it last season including vegeteblebelay and myself as one team.

 

I would seriously doubt it is in condition for much *good* climbing. Matt is right that one could scratch their way up the slabs but that is pretty ridiculous and not really meant to be the way the route should be climbed.

 

Bring your air voyagers. If you dont have a whole lot of experience ice climbing it could be scary. Although not very steep the ice was about 1-3 inches in thickness and the protection sparse when we climbed it. The rock slabs dont have much for cracks and will be covered anyway if it is in real good.

 

Personally I'd wait until February and then give it a look or go. As for tell you when real ice is in- well it was in last weekend. You should have joined the crowds on Eldo or been a little more ambitous.

[COL._Von_Spanker]

Yeah, I'm kicken' myself for not getting out last weekend, but I had band practice, and since the only time we ever practice is two weeks before a show I thought it would be a good idea to show up, though I'm glad I wasn't on eldo.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Well it may have been crowded but most everybody moved quickly and observed being safe to one another. Therefore it worked out fine. You could have climbed it the thanksgiving weekend instead - When I wanted to do it- or taken 2 sick days from work during the week. Or even went somewhere else (read post on sumallo and zero gulley - pretty accessible), climbed it during the middle of the night while everyone was sleeping, or whatever. It's not our fault that you didn't climb a route.

[COL._Von_Spanker]

I was in Jtree climbing granite during thanksgiving.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Quit making excuses pooz

[COL._Von_Spanker]

I was totally gonna go but it was my second cousins 7th wedding anniversary.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I heard Triple Coolers is in! Free solo naked with a 12 pack strapped to your back or bow down.

[COL._Von_Spanker]

I'm there punk, only I'm bringin' a big ol bottle of tequila insteads of the beer.