DMM Offsets

[satori]

Last weekend I had the pleasure of placing DMM offset stoppers. I have never touched an offset piece of pro before. I went home and ordered the #7-#9 pieces. Other than what I can read in a book, any comments, tips or suggestions when using these pieces of pro in free climbing application only?

[ivan]

no different free vs aid - they love pin scars but generally are just as good, if not better, than standard nuts in all spots - expensive, but they're all i use now.

[satori]

I can see why that is all you use. I should articulated my intent better: I was referring to the alloy series sizes rather than the super micro brass offset types (say 2-5 kN rating) used more frequently for aid (although I'm sure some use these pieces for free applications).

[layton]

all i use too (set of brass and aluminum).

put them in cracks and clip em.

free and aid are placed the same way.

[satori]

What's is the greatest fall you have taken on a brass offset without it failing? What size and what kind of rock?

[pink]

What's is the greatest fall you have taken on a brass offset without it failing? What size and what kind of rock?

 

as in tony the tiger "great" or like the longest fall kinda "great" ?

[ivan]

What's is the greatest fall you have taken on a brass offset without it failing? What size and what kind of rock?

dunnon - but i did fall on a 5 kn one, shockloading it w/ my daisy, and it failed big time, blowing out the cable at the head

[keenwesh]

I left a #2 behind as pro while I camhooked up a crack for several moves, felt warm and fuzzy inside, but I never fell. They rock. If you can find 'em on sale for 30% off buy a set or five.

[selkirk]

no different free vs aid - they love pin scars but generally are just as good, if not better, than standard nuts in all spots - expensive, but they're all i use now.

 

once I bought some I never went back. A full set of alloy's and the larger brass ones are permanent pieces on my rack now with the regular DMM walnuts filling in any gaps.

 

They are da bomb!

 

And the DMM walnuts are the 2nd best nut on the market next to the DMM alloy offsets

[satori]

Which brass offset sizes do you normally carry selkirk?

[dberdinka]

#4-#6 are adequate 99% of the time. #2 and #3 can be handy on Zion aid routes. #0 and #1 are pretty much pointless.

 

I would recommend DMM Peanuts over DMM Brass Offsets particularly if you climb on granite more than desert sandstone. Very similar but better in every respect with the exception of a very specific type of pin scar.

[skykilo]

I use #2 and #3 while free climbing on basalt and granite. If the placement is good then 6 kN seems like plenty of strength to me. The #3 has definitely caught falls.

 

I regularly carry #2 brass through #9 or 10 offset.

[TeleRoss]

always have #2-#6 brass

and once I was turned on to the larger aluminum sizes, I now also always carry #7=#10

I also bring along some smaller peenuts and superlight rocks as doubles if I'm climbing long thin pitches