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matt_warfield

Mikey

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Mikey strikes again in Yosemite and represents the NW very well.

 

Check climbing.com or rockandice.com. You are all smart enough to do it without a link.

Edited by matt_warfield

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That route sounds so interesting. Likely to go on his long list of unrepeated routes though unfortunately. Wish I had half the talent to try it. He is at the top of his game and what a legacy he is leaving for the next generation to aspire to.

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One of the most under rate climbers out there!
I don't know about underrated, maybe not well known...

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I wonder if he grades his often un-repeated routes index-style. He's got those slab-tastic skills that a lot of us modern climbers never quite develop.

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Thanks for all the kind words. I don't think that I'm underrated.. its just that I'm real short like RuMR so I'm hard to see.

 

For a slightly more complete take on the whole project check a post on Patagonia's Blog HERE!

 

And believe it or not, the route has already seen two attempts! First by Tommy Caldwell and Jonathan Siegrest. They literally got on it the day after I came down. Only problem was I still had all my fixed rope on it so I had to jug back up 1800'ft and pull it out of their way. Totally worth the effort to watch those guys climb it. And definitely an honor to have that team up there trying it. Tommy was able to send all the crux pitches after a few tries but Jonathan couldn't figure out the last crux in the dark. So they opted to go down before completing the final few pitches.

 

Then a day later (yesterday) Honnold went up and gave it a go. He cruised up the lower bit managing to onsight the first 5.13 pitch. He took a couple falls on the next pitch but managed it 2nd go. The final 5.13 crux pitch which I dubbed "the Index pitch" gave him some trouble and took him 3 tries. Gotta say that put a smile on my face. He has a habit of either onsighting or free soloing most peoples projects...

 

Without a doubt Index has been one of the best training grounds imaginable. It has taught me how to figure out cryptic sequences and the ability to stand on nothing. Its the definition of granite trickery! It probably also helps that this is my 17th year of climbing in Yosemite.

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Well shit dude, nice offering a route that attracts Yosemite's finest. I guess Caldwell and Siegrist are there to do the Dawn Wall project. Caldwell is a legend, Honnold is close, and let's not forget Siegrist did the FA of Washington's hardest sport climb at Little Si. A proud bunch and I am sure they all respect Mikey.

Edited by matt_warfield

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and let's not forget Siegrist did the FA of Washington's hardest sport climb at Little Si.

 

actually, not so true anymore. maybe the hardest when he did it?

 

although there are possibly other routes he couldn't have done, meaning, difficulty is very subjective.

 

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Well shit dude, nice offering a route that attracts Yosemite's finest. I guess Caldwell and Siegrist are there to do the Dawn Wall project. Caldwell is a legend, Honnold is close, and let's not forget Siegrist did the FA of Washington's hardest sport climb at Little Si. A proud bunch and I am sure they all respect Mikey.

 

Honnold is close???

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Okay he is there. Error in judgment. Free soloing Phoenix and the Nose speed record and etc. hadn't been fully digested before my post.

Edited by matt_warfield

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