[TR] Shawangunks - High Exposure and others 9/17/2012

[Val Zephyr]

Trip: Shawangunks - High Exposure and others

 

Date: 9/17/2012

 

Trip Report:

Hayley and I kept the sister’s trip tradition going another year with a quick trip to the Shawangunks in New York. The goal of our sister’s trips has always been to find a new and unique challenge. This year we decided to learn the art of the horizontal crack and climb the mega-classic, High Exposure.

 

We had been to the Gunks briefly before and I made sickeningly slow progress up a 5.5. The climbing there was intimidating at the least. This year we set aside a day to warm up to this style of climbing. We’d use our second day to hit up one of the most well known and exciting 5.6 routes out there, High Exposure.

 

Sister’s trip 2012 challenge: the strange, horizontal cam

 

 

 

My first difficulty was getting out of bed Thursday morning. I flew into Baltimore on a Tuesday night red-eye and we drove up to the Gunks Wednesday for free camping in the park (as long as you’re a paying technical rock climber, you can claim one of the 22 sites in the park). Thursday morning jet-lag hit hard. Hayley brewed some tasty coffee though and we were off! Our line-up included 7 pitches of 5.5-5.7 roofs with plenty of those strange horizontal placements. Once you learn to trust that there’s always going to be pro around the corner and usually a jug when you need it (though you sometimes have to look for a while), the climbing is very fun. We finished the day with 5.6, 5.9 and 5.7 vertical cracks! It was funny how inflated the ratings on vertical cracks were (compared to everything else).

 

Hayley leads up P2 of Jackie

 

Taking a break from the horizontal

 

Heading back to camp after a day of climbing

 

The next morning we hiked out to the base of High Exposure early to beat the heat, and the crowds. The route was everything we wanted. The first pitch is a fun 180’ 5.5 corner crack with an exposed traverse. The money pitch had a thoughtful move around a roof, followed by juggy steep climbing. The setting and exposure are pretty cool (though I have to say after alpine climbing in the cascades with over 1000’ of exposure sometimes, the exposure was a little lost on me). We finished the trip with another classic 5.6, Frog’s Head, with more exposure and more roofs. Hayley was getting used to the rock now and led the steep second pitch of Frog’s Head. I’m glad to see that grad school and city life haven’t softened her too much. She’s still got it!

 

P1 of High Exposure

 

 

Hanging out at the belay

 

Team ahead of us taking in the exposure before pulling the crux move

 

My turn to go for P2

 

Hayley tops out on High Exposure

 

Next team climbing the second pitch of High Exposure

 

Me at belay on Frog’s Head

 

Topping out on Frog’s Head

 

Hayley at the top of Frog’s Head

 

We squished in a little bonus trip Saturday morning with a little climbing at a crag in Massachusetts (Rose Ledge). This was another example of the fact that wherever there is a rock, there will be climbers to send it. Hayley led another thoughtful 5.5 here and we TR’d two of the 5.10s. Fun little crag if you find yourself in Massachusetts.

 

 

 

 

 

It was great to get in another sister’s trip. Let’s keep ‘em going!

Edited September 17, 2012 by Val Zephyr

[Alex]

Nice! Great East Coast classic. I climbed it on Thanksgiving day once with a buddy and my fingers completely froze while leading the last pitch, so...no more gear placing until the top! Then screaming barfies, before I could belay my friend up. Ah, memories!

[mattp]

My favorite crag in the '48. Thanks for posting.

[Jake_Gano]

My favorite crag in the '48. Thanks for posting.

Favorite crag in the "48?" So where else is better?

[mattp]

For cragging my favorite world wide is Verdon. There might be better than that but it is hard to imagine.

 

Back to the 'Gunks, though, there is no better place to go for a few days with some old friends or a sibling for a few days of walk-up adventure. The climb in question - High Exposure - is a full value 5.6 that, even though Val says it isn't "exposed" in her rating book, is action packed. Really. The 'Gunks, at any normal climbing grade, are as exciting as climbing can be (I don't know about how many 5.14's they have).

 

Val could not find better in the Northwest.

[Val Zephyr]

Alex- screaming barfies on High Exposure?! Ouch!

 

Matt- High E was indeed the most action packed 5.6 I've ever seen! For the grade, this place is wild. I found that if I drop my expectations a little for what grade I think I'll be able to climb/lead, the Gunks is full of interesting, unusual, and fun climbs. I've never really thought of that area of the country as a good climbing destination, but I'm already looking forward to checking out more of what the East coast has to offer while my sister is stuck out there in grad school. I hear that Vermont has good ice...

 

I'll have to look up this Verdon place too.

[Jim]

Nice trip, thanks for the photos. I learned to climb there. My favorite crag in the US as well. No bolts, a ton of moderate routes, and some great overhangs at moderate grades. Haven't been there in 10 yrs, hmmmm. Next time try out Shockley's Ceiling and Arrow. Classics. Cheers

 

Oh - and North Conway NH for the ice.

[Pete_H]

Looks like a great trip. Always wanted to go there.

[wfinley]

My favorite crag in the '48. Thanks for posting.

Nice! All those are super classic routes! I wouldn't say the Gunks are the best in the '48... but definitional top 10 in the 50!

PS... there are no crags worth mentioning in AK or HI.