Current Forbidden conditions?

[PuckerJunkie]

Hey everybody,

 

Anyone been up on the east or west ridges of Forbidden recenlty?

 

I am particularly curious about how technical getting off the glacier for either route will be. If we can avoid carrying up a bunch of stuff that we won't use, that would be great!

 

Thanks!

[Buckaroo]

For the West ridge of Forbidden you are going to be doing the slab rock climb to the starting notch, the snow gully is long out of condition. I remember this being sustained 5.6, much more so than the actual climb.

 

You could probably get away with aluminum crampons and a single light axe for the glacier. Which you could leave at the notch if coming back down the same way.

[kurthicks]

word is that the approach is very melted out and moated this fall. The standard late season approach to the notch via the slabs is not going and is covered in sand as you exit off the glacier. Numerous folks send are not even able to get onto the rock.

 

I bet the east ridge approach is in much, much easier shape.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

word is that the approach is very melted out and moated this fall. The standard late season approach to the notch via the slabs is not going and is covered in sand as you exit off the glacier. Numerous folks send are not even able to get onto the rock.

 

I bet the east ridge approach is in much, much easier shape.

 

Would rappelling down the gullies from the notch be problematic at the bottom due to these conditions, or does the final rap get you past any such nastiness?

 

[Rad]

If you're descending the W Ridge to avoid the E ledges descent, don't make that trade. The E ledges is fine provided you're comfortable unroped on exposed 3rd class. Angle up slightly on the last bit and you finish right at the target notch without having to climb up that loose gully. If you're asking about the W Ridge descent because you'd rather downclimb that ridge to cover more classic terrain, then ignore my comments and follow the advice of others who've been down that way late season (I haven't).

Rad

[lazzara]

Are the East Ledges rap's still in?

 

Word has the NPS axed the well established rap line west of the West Ridge gully. The rap line on Torment got the chop too it sounds like. Sounds like a mess up there.

 

Have fun!

 

 

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Are the East Ledges rap's still in?

 

Word has the NPS axed the well established rap line west of the West Ridge gully. The rap line on Torment got the chop too it sounds like. Sounds like a mess up there.

 

Have fun!

 

 

Why did they do that? does this mean folks will need to bring lots of runners to set up a rap line, or did they just clean up tat?

 

[Matt Lemke]

Anyone know about the torment-forbidden traverse? How is the icy traverse section on the north side before the notch? Will we need ice screws? or plastic boots? We plan to ascend the std route on torment and traverse. Can all the 5th class sections of the west ridge be rappelled if we bring slings.

Thanks

[kurthicks]

The traverse is still getting done.

 

I bet the traverse will be firm or perhaps icy (you can go above it on the rock if you want). I'd take leather boots, like the Sportiva red boots. steel crampons, 1-2 tools, snow or ice pro. rock gear to 2". the rap route from below the west ridge notch will still go with a little slung cordage. one 60m rope would suffice.

 

The west ridge proper has fixed rap stations at all of the steeper bits, though there is a good bit of mandatory down climbing on 4th class traversing terrain.

[Matt Lemke]

Thanks...would we be able to avoid bringing boots, screws etc if we climb over and avoid the ice? I heard it is 5.6 with a rap which isn't bad. We may also take the East Ledges DC

[kurthicks]

it could be done without boots or screws for sure, but a little weight from that gear will make your trip much safer and more fun IMO.

 

The snow bypass is a little thoughtful, depending on which way you go (if you go up the rock from the flat snow before the col, it leads to a 30m rappel. then climb up a gully to the crest. Alternately, if you start out the steep snow traverse about 100', then go up to a small col (probably 55 degree climbing) to the crest it's less screwing around).

 

pick your poison.

 

 

[Jason_Martin]

Are the East Ledges rap's still in?

 

Word has the NPS axed the well established rap line west of the West Ridge gully. The rap line on Torment got the chop too it sounds like. Sounds like a mess up there.

 

Have fun!

 

 

We just had a meeting with the NPS last week about the bolt removals. The only bolts that were removed were on the Forbidden descent gully. The NPS has not removed any other bolts...

 

Jason

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Are the East Ledges rap's still in?

 

Word has the NPS axed the well established rap line west of the West Ridge gully. The rap line on Torment got the chop too it sounds like. Sounds like a mess up there.

 

Have fun!

 

 

We just had a meeting with the NPS last week about the bolt removals. The only bolts that were removed were on the Forbidden descent gully. The NPS has not removed any other bolts...

 

Jason

 

Are there obvious rap stations (sans bolts) down that gully? I've never been there and just assumed the thing had a bunch of tat/rap stations but never thought there were bolts there.