[TR] The Steeple, Oregon - Brother Mike 9/9/2012

[Plaidman]

Trip: The Steeple, Oregon - Brother Mike

 

Date: 9/9/2012

 

Trip Report:

Ben, Rick and I headed up to have Ben lead "Brother Mike". It was a cool day and perfect for the climbing we were going to do.

My plan was to jug the fixed lines and get pictures of Rick and Ben from above.

 

I hauled the drill and other supplies to add the rap anchor at the top of pitch 1. This would facilitate two functions. This would allow them to use it as anchor for pitch two and also allow parties to rap the route with a 60m rope.

 

I jugged up and installed the anchor. Then Rick led pitch one with one slung knob and 4 cams. If a leader had 1 set of cams from .3 to #3 they would have plenty to choose from on this 60 foot lead. I personally placed 8 cams, but I was doubling up on the pro.

 

Rick got to the anchor on the 5.7 60 foot pitch no problem. I was taking video and pics from well above pitch one. Ben cruised up and got ready for pitch two.

 

Rick had brought a belay seat that he grith hitched 2 48" slings on. He said it was perfect. So now that the belayer was comfy Ben could proceed without have to hear complaints about the semi-hanging belay.

 

Ben said the first few moves were pumpy and made short work of the opening moves. He looked for a rest higher and found it. He didn't have to resort to the crouching tiger lunging dyno that Rick used last weekend to get past the 4th bolt. It's nice to know that there are options on that section.

 

Ben proceeded up and found that the climbing while not as sustained at 5.10b, were still challenging. He made it to the top of pitch two passing the rap anchor just 30 feet below it.

Others could stop here to belay but it is not as good a ledge as the one above it.

 

Ben was stoked to free climb the pitch with no falls. He led the next pitch off the "Monster Knob"®. He said that was hard too, at 5.10b. We all moved on up to the next anchor and finally on top added another bolt for the rap off the anchor there.

 

So with all the work finished that I wanted to accomplish we got ourselves off The Steeple, grabbed all the fixed lines and other gear and made it back to the car without incident.

 

Ben told me that I had picked the best line on The Steeple and that the route was awesome. The features he said were like nothing he had ever seen in any climbing mag. I am interested in what other might think about that.

 

The views he said were the best in the area. With full on views of Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson. On a clear day you can even see the top of Mt. Rainier(I just noticed that the name Rainier looks like rainy-ier. Things that make you go hmmmmmm).

Ben pulling moves on pitch 2.

 

Gear Notes:

Single Rack of Cams .3 - #3 Camalots

22 Draws

60m rope

 

Approach Notes:

30 mins up hill in old growth timber. Very little bushwacking.

Edited September 11, 2012 by Plaidman

[beaconben]

Scott and Rick, thanks for taking me up there. This area is so awesome! The Steeple and Coethedral. Everyone has seen the pictures, have you ever seen anything like it. I have never been to Maple Canyon or Cochise Stronghond, but in photos they look quite a bit different than these areas. The knobs are course volcanic rock, very sticky. Super fun!! Great views from nice summit. Cool hike in with big trees.

 

Scott, congrats on the route!

 

Scott, Bill, and the many others who have made these areas happen, Thank You!

 

Come on out folks! You will have a blast.

 

How about a few more pics from Sunday, Scott?

[stevetimetravlr]

That is amazing looking rock. Nice job guys!

[Plaidman]

By request:

 

The file size is too big for this photo. So I will just have to link to it. It's my favorite:

Ben leading "Brother Mike"

Edited September 11, 2012 by Plaidman

[billcoe]

Ben said it's the best route up there and you chose a great line. Congrats on what is clearly a job well done Scott, Rick and Rhonda. Woot!

 

 

[ivan]

was looking forward to second trip out thataways...

[stevetimetravlr]

Let me know when youre going Ivan and I'd be into doing it with ya.

[ivan]

Let me know when youre going Ivan and I'd be into doing it with ya.

sunday?

[stevetimetravlr]

Anytime except this week as I am heading into the hills shortly!

[powderhound]

Let me know when youre going Ivan and I'd be into doing it with ya.

sunday?

 

possibly:)

[crimper]

i'm all for adventure climbing, but has anyone taken a lead fall yet? will that sandy/muddy looking "rock" really resist when a bolt expands under a lead fall? then again, i was recently too scared to fall on the pins on sufficiently breathless at beacon and took a hang to try and keep that from happening (bear in mind i can't forget watching arent pull out a pin on "blood sweat and smears" at beacon with his fingertips. he came back to the anchor after that...and i don't think he's been back on that climb since...has anyone?)

[ivan]

i don't think he's been back on that climb since...has anyone?)

it's been two years for me - when was your climb?

[Plaidman]

i'm all for adventure climbing, but has anyone taken a lead fall yet? will that sandy/muddy looking "rock" really resist when a bolt expands under a lead fall?

 

No lead falls yet. The bolts are 1/2" x 5 1/2" 304 stainless. Torqued to 50 pounds with a Torque wrench. They really are bomb proof. But as yet no lead falls.

[crimper]

it had to have been 6-7 years ago that arent pulled that pin. you must not have needed it that badly if you climbed past it. i'm guessing it was 15 feet into the climb, below the first little roof.

[ivan]

it had to have been 6-7 years ago that arent pulled that pin. you must not have needed it that badly if you climbed past it. i'm guessing it was 15 feet into the climb, below the first little roof.

i do recall pulling a pin out in the same way from that bizarre anchor for bss

[Plaidman]

####THREAD DRIFT ALERT######

 

######THREAD DRIFT ALERT######

 

Knock it off!!!!

[Plaidman]

The details on the route are here:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/brother-mike/107795096

 

Thanks Bill