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Posted

Dru - My excitely neighbor to the north, On some routes with pitches with NO pro McKlane makes no mention of the lack of pro. Yet those topos come in handy by clearly showing this minor fact! Plus the topos are different from Mr. Campbells. For a rock climbing area KM's lack of topos certainly sucks. And his topos that are included are not an improvement vague at best. As far as over grading at Squamish isn't that a tradition fathered by Kevin himself. By the way construction wise his books rock! [rockband]

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Posted

What pitches with no pro - Cruel Shoes? He says "bold". [Roll Eyes]

 

I keep telling KM everyone loves topos but he doesnt listen. Also when I tell him to change those 5.9s back to 5.8 and 5.10as to 5.8+ to be in line with washington grading he accuses me of "parochialism". i think he wans to catch up with softly graded areas like Colorado.

Posted

No not Cruel Shoes but if he does label that route bold then his lack of disclosure on some other routes is really inconsistant. I am not slamming your bud (in fact I have bought all his Squamish guides since that updat e back in the 80s) but he has clearly made a purposeful choice NOT to show this info. I just think it is pretty damn useful. If someone was planning on going to do routes on the apron I'd say without doubt bring the select guide!

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Topos are great. But sometimes all that needs to be done is desribe it in words too, if the photo is good enough.

Description for Piggys Perversions; "Best forgotten".

 

It actually just got retro cleaned and looks nice [Cool] now all the seeping moss and trees are gone.

Posted

Ray, you offered 1 photograph of Dragontail. Something I replied to you that we needed to go do anyway because we need several different vantage points.

 

This guide would be nothing if it were not for the help others have provided, and we are very happy to receive the help.

 

So kiss it [Moon]

Posted

Hey you asked for 1 photo of dragontail. How do you know the vantages I may have to offer... Gargle the butt gravy.

 

If you want to act like an idiot after someone submits advice then I'll just be a critic. If you are actually interested in someones photos or info then act like it. Until then later mofo. BTW when are you gonna climb triple coolers [Moon]

 

[ 10-18-2002, 09:01 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

Posted

Hey you asked for 1 photo of dragontail. How do you know the vantages I may have to offer...

 

if I wanted a pic of Asgaard Pass I would have asked! [Moon]

 

BTW when are you gonna climb triple coolers [Moon]

 

triple coolers because a single cooler isnt gonna be able to hold the case! [big Drink]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

BTW when are you gonna climb triple coolers
[Moon]

What!! You haven't climbed everything in your guidebook? I'm sure it's realllll accurate [Roll Eyes]

 

[laf]

Posted

Hey Greg the unwritten law is dont accept any beta or info from me it seems. [laf]

 

I don't really care. If they ask for something then expect responses. I was just relating some info. Plus had a few other leads etc to offer....

 

Anyway, I'll just relate that all you muthus would climb together most likely. so eat some poundcake and chill.

 

As for Alexus chew the butt [Moon][laf] still stands.

 

Also a clue ... try contacting rat for ice climbing info if you have not. He seems like one of the most prolific ice climbers in Leavenworth. [big Drink] As well as a fistfull of others that I dont really know.

Posted

Hey Greg the unwritten law is dont accept any beta or info from me it seems.

 

actually it IS written down, in our notes. "Don't accept beta from cavemen."

 

As for Alexus chew the butt [Moon][laf] still stands.

 

just as long as its not your butt! [Eek!]

 

Also a clue ... try contacting rat for ice climbing info if you have not. He seems like one of the most prolific ice climbers in Leavenworth. [big Drink] As well as a fistfull of others that I dont really know.

 

thanks ray, actually we've been talking to rat for quite some time and yes, he gets out quite a bit! he has done some interesting stuff, too. There are a couple of other guys there too - Jason has 'worth so I am not really in on that loop.

 

Jason and I split responsibilities for areas across the state. So Alex has stuff like Strobach and Banks, while Jason goes after 'worth and Mazama. Honestly, without the division of labor this first edition would be almost too much work for 1 person.

 

[big Drink]

Posted

Right on the typical I know everything attittude shines on in public. [laf][Moon] as usual.

 

Your psuedo snide comments are noted. [Wazzup]

 

I think you proved you are more than an asshole than I want to deal with on a "pc" note [laf]

 

Cheers and let's see if we talk like this in person. I bet you'll STFU and drink a beer instead [Eek!]

Posted

ice in beer is gross, but an iced beer at the base of a route waiting for you when you get back to the car, now your talking

 

better yet, hot buttered rum

Posted

the ice is so you cant taste the beer taste. i like the beer taste.

 

butter in rum is gross. rum in coffee is Ok though. 2 different dehydrations at once. too bad all the coffee drinks at mugs and jugs come with girly cherries and whip cream on them.

Posted

Greg W,

 

Would you like to you try to write an ice climbing guide for this state? Do you think Beckey climbed all the routes in his guide books?Alex and Jason have put a lot of time and energy into researching this guide. I went with them once, and can fully appreciate their efforts at compiling an accurate, comprehensive guide. Unless you can do better your critism is unwarranted.

 

Dan

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