Plaidman's new route on the Steeple

[billcoe]

Went up to get some shots of Plaidman on his new route on the Steeple today. No Plaidman. Can see the rope in photo #2. Scott estimates he's 150' up, doing it partially solo ground up, or sometimes with Ricky and or Rhonda. Went for a hike on the Indian Henry/Fish Creek Clackamas river trail afterwards. Was pretty good.

 

Anyway, maybe Scott will weigh in if I have the location picked correctly as I'm guessing. I couldn't see it with my Steiner Binocs, but the camera has a 14mp and 20x optical zoom and I thought that I could see the rope hanging once I got home. Clicking on the pics should enlarge them.

 

Overview

 

Closeup

 

In retrospect, I think I can see the rope going higher than my mark.

 

Weather notes. Sweltering in the valley, was somewhat pleasant (@70s) up here at 3500' level.

[Plaidman]

Yep that is where I put the high point. HOLY CRAP I HAVE A LONG WAY TO GO!!!!!

[Plaidman]

Heading up today. Wanted to get started earlier but I had to go to the beach to celebrate my anniversary. Didn't get home till 1:00 am. We will stay out till dark today.

Edited July 15, 2012 by Plaidman

[denalidave]

You'd better hurry! The masses can't wait to get on the MONSTER! Go Plaid, GO!

[Plaidman]

The first pitch is almost in. Just need to drill the chain anchors for the rappel/ belay. It is shaping up to be a really cool climb. I hope to be able to free climb it. I looks to be in the mid 5.10 range. The next pitch looks like I will be able to free climb it and bolt on lead. I will run it out by slinging the monster knobs and bolt when I get freaked out. Well, maybe it would be better to bolt before I freak out.

[Plaidman]

TO THE STEEPLE! TO THE STEEPLE! TO THE STEEPLE! The battle cry has been sounded. Fist belay will go in this weekend. Then the climbing may be reasonable. We will see. Solo again. WAHHHH HOOOOO!

[Plaidman]

Just got back. Got the rappel/belay in for the first pitch. And got up to easier ground. Had two spinners. Who knew that lock-tite instantly bonds in the blazing sun. Screwed up two bolts. I added another and will remove the two that are trash. Good day though. The next pitch is going to be cake. We will just have to see about that.

 

Bill was out there with some other yahoos. Waiting now for the pics he took of me one route.

Edited July 22, 2012 by Plaidman

[billcoe]

YAHOOOOOOO!!!!!!

 

The Eiger Birds smell blood and come flocking for the show! Shaun and Mark watch the progress on Brother Mike, Scott's route on The Steeple. Here's yer close up picture/overview of the Steeple.

 

Watching Scott lead is like watching paint dry, Rhonda and Rick will get sainthood nominations for their belay patience. Scott has been going it solo as well. Anyone who climbs in this area knows that feeling of aloneness? Well, it takes huge stones to crawl up there ground up like the Plaidman is doing. It is both scary and meditative at the same time. I have 3 solo routes or part of routes done in that area and will confess that doing a 4th one scares the shit out of me and doesn't seem possible. I would have pussed out and rap bolted that one Scott chose, as that seems like scary shit to me now. There's still plenty of new lines to be done in that area if anyone wants a project.

 

Scotts about halfway and I heard that he was going to leave the hand drill at home and take a rotohammer so that he could put in 7" bolts for the belay in something less than 2 hours a hole or whatever it would take to drill 2 7" deep holes in the rock going tap tap tap tap tap tap ...well, you get that picture. Anyway, it was time to move over and get a better shot. Hiked to the top of Coethedral, about 1/2 a mile further away and zoomed it in on the ragin' clansman. About 200 more feet to go. Here it is:

 

If anyone wants to pack a lunch and watch the show, there's dirt road to where I took that first shot. Click this: http://mapper.acme.com/ Then copy/paste these co-ordinates in the find space lower right hand corner: N 45.07728 W 122.11849 Tralllaaaaaa, The Steeple! You can chose map/topo/ or satellite picture upper right. Zoom in and out is the upper left. Have fun!

 

ps, thanks for letting us go first Sunday out at Beacon Scott, we were back at the car by 10:40am. The lads needed to have family dinner and then drive to Eastern Oregon later, so it was nice to get a lap done early, and my shoulder was telling me that even the corner was too much for it. But I did a lap anyway. It still hurts 2 days later.

 

Get er done up there!!!!

[Plaidman]

Thanks Bill for the pics and the write up on the the painful progress on "Brother Mike". I am definitely enjoying the ride. It is way cool up there and the rock is still bomb proof. Wish I could get other climbers to take a look at it.

 

About letting you pass on Beacon. To not let you pass would have been criminal, as the way I climb is the murder of the possible.

[Plaidman]

New high point in this photo. I got above the monster knob. There is a serious overhang there. The bolt I got in was the hardest and scaryest yet. That knob I was standing on was bigger than me. So I was hanging off knobs and standing on a big one.

 

[stevetimetravlr]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1iR2Wi3u5o

[Plaidman]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1iR2Wi3u5o

Thanks for the cool PLAID-ESQUE music. That will be the tunes when I top out on my route. I think I may even dance a little jig just for you.

[Plaidman]

I swear this damn thing is growing. We almost got to the top. I got 10 bolts in today. I will have to wait till next weekend to finish it.

 

 

Here is some [video:facebook]Facebook video ID; 3804441464521 (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=3804441464521)

[stevetimetravlr]

so now its going to be 4 pitches? Looks like you were just busting onto easier ground?

[Plaidman]

Yeah 4 pitches. The first pitch will take gear on one variation. I put a red sling on the first bolt to denote that it is a project like you suggested.

Edited August 12, 2012 by Plaidman

[billcoe]

[Plaidman]

It's really close. We will get it this weekend for sure. I am not leaving until we top out. Should be very straight forward from here. Hell last weekend I free climbed half of the pitch. It is going to be so cool. That last part from last weekend was really good. Lot's of exposure on the arête. Here is a link to some cool footage that Rick got.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=3804441464521

Edited August 15, 2012 by Plaidman

[Rad]

This is like Tommy Caldwell updating his blog from a portaledge on El Cap.

Cue Beth Rodden voiceover: Go Tommy Plaidman!

[powderhound]

It will go free I hope? Need a rope gun?

[Plaidman]

I will work it and get it free. Then it is open season.

[Plaidman]

Got to the top of the route yesterday. Free climbed the last pitch. With the drill and in approach shoes solo. It was gratifying to finally get to the top. Put in the last rapp anchor . I will put one near the bottom of the route so that it can be rapped with a single 60m rope.

 

That last pitch was exciting with just 4 bolts, slung some knobs and dashed to the top.

 

Now all I have to do it free climb the whole thing. It is 4 pitches and about 350 feet long.

[Checat]

 

I have got to get to this spot

 

[wayne]

Ah the double challenge. Good job, and good luck Scotty!

[Plaidman]

Ah the double challenge. Good job, and good luck Scotty!

 

Thanks Wayne!

[billcoe]

Temps will be perfect this weekend.