markwebster Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I bought the most expensive rope REI sells last year, thinking it would last for at least a couple years. New England 9.9, bi-color 70: http://www.rei.com/product/783832/new-england-glider-bi-pattern-99mm-x-70m-dry-core-rope I got one year out of it. In the first month I core shot the tie in knot getting lowered down a chimney to recover a stuck cam. The knot rubbed against the chimney wall right down to the core. Thin sheath! It got hairballed quickly, but nothing dangerous looking. Then at about exactly the one year point it got a bad bump where the sheath wore through about half way. It was one of those random things that happen to ropes, you don't know where or how. It never got stuck, rarely stepped on. It's a big enough bump that I feel like I have to lead on the other side...I just don't trust it. It's plenty strong to rap...probably the core is fine. I think this trend toward lighter and thinner ropes is sacrificing durability. I haven't started climbing any differently the last few years...ropes just don't last as long. I am a weekend climber (every second or third weekend), though I have 9 weeks of vacation so I get around to all the west coast climbing areas like jtree, smith and the city. Has anyone tried going back to thicker ropes? I just talked to Sterling on the phone, he thought I was crazy to be looking at his 10.7, but said that it was his burliest rope. http://www.sterlingrope.com/product/155115/MU/_/Marathon_Ultra He said they use that rope a lot in gyms as it lasts forever. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Yeah, totally. Back when I was climbing, I was using an 11mm Bluewater for general cragging, and I'm pretty sure the damn thing will outlast me. Heavy, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 I'm ok with a heavy rope. I'm not a mountaineer anymore. I don't do approaches longer than outer space. I will gladly carry a heavy rope if it feels burly. What the hell, I still pedal a chromoly steel frame 10 speed from 1973. Bought the dang thing new. It's heavy compared to my wifes new aluminum road bike, but that thing is burly. When did it become important to climb on dental floss? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 your big mistake was buying a new england ropes. I use 9.1 for alpine and 9.8 for the desert. Both are trashed after one year of extremely heavy use (2-3x per week, desert, alpine, jugging and no rope bag) Get Mammut, they last longer than all the others. I used a 8.9 with a friend two years ago, and again just a few months ago...same rope and it's his main one. I was impressed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I would second the durability of Mammut ropes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teh Phuzzy Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 My Mammut is a big bigger, but the thing is tough as nails. +1 for Mammut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fromage Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Yeah, totally. Back when I was climbing, I was using an 11mm Bluewater for general cragging, and I'm pretty sure the damn thing will outlast me. Heavy, though. Word. My first rope was a Blue Water 11mm. I climbed for 2 years on it and then gave it to a friend. It looked like the day I bought it. That said, my Beal 8.1mm ice lines have taken a right thrashing on Lillooet ice adventure climbs, Cascade alpine routes, and getting dragged around on glaciers. They have held up remarkably well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryographer Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 J. Yoder gave me that exact rope, Sterling 10.7, two winters ago when he tore his knee up Skiing. Ive only used it in place of a static line for route setting, but that's usually the most abusive thing I do to a rope. It has handled like a champ, still looks new. And I don't really notice a major weight difference. Still wouldn't drag it up to Snow creek wall though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 Well, it's cool to hear that Jim had a fat rope. I think maybe I'll try it out. If I get two years out of it, I saved 240 bucks. Most of my partners are younger. I'll let them carry the rope :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 New England ropes have the durability of Kleenex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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