bd2510 Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 Trip: Mt. Jefferson 6/10/12 - Jefferson Park KER via Woodpecker Ridge Date: 6/10/2012 Trip Report: Yocum Ridge and I made an attempt on Jefferson recently in difficult conditions. I wrote it up on my blog here: http://www.nobolts.blogspot.com/2012/06/mt-jefferson-attempt-via-woodpecker.html We climbed most of the KER to the North Ridge junction, but had to bail due to tired party members. 22 hours round trip. This was attempt 4 on Jefferson, but each time something's prevented climbing it. Lots of photos and a full report on the blog. Also look for Yocum Ridge's TR soon. Gear Notes: 3 pickets, 5 screws, many slings, set of nuts, screamers, a few pins. Approach Notes: Woodpecker Ridge trailhead (1 mile walk up snow covered road). Endless post holing both directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 i expect nothing less of miss russia 2012! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downey Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 rime tunnling isn't something i'm particularly psyched on becoming familiar with. nice work and thanks for the TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 It doesn't look too fun of the route, but is a good training for Yocum! Great effort! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 Looks like rime from hell (as I would have guessed). Glad to skip this one until the nice loose rock is exposed. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Mt. Jefferson C2C via KER in winterish conditions, hmmm... The week before the last weekend one foot of fresh snow had successfully emerged both on the approach and on the mountain itself and was quickly transforming into rime at the higher elevation. Good and painful times were had by all last Sunday. "All" is just two of us - we had not met a single soul on the second tallest Oregonian peak that day. How weird is that . The approach was an ass kicker ranging from postholing, jumping across the moats and tree wells to a full on north cascadian bushwhack. Not something I would like to do again. At least, not right now. Chain saws might also be helpful for making your way along the FS roads. So, come prepared. The tools were useless on the toilet paper rimed KER. Your best bet is to use hands and excavate as much rime as possible to make holds to stem against. Do not fall - there is no reliable pro in that compound on the entire ridge. It doesn't look too fun of the route, but is a good training for Yocum! Except the Yocum Ridge has a much more user friendly approach and is wider than 6 inches But then again, the grass is always greener ... For those looking for the info on the Jeff Park Glacier, it is in a very straightforward solo shape right with the two shrunds easily passable either on the right or left. See pics below. Our descent had certainly its bright sides too. The Prehistoric Monster tower decided to hit me on the head with a rime bucket that almost knocked me off my feet. Then the avy had happened down the North Mill Creek gully as a result of cornice failure in the afternoon sun. Thankfully we stayed on the ridge all time. Jeff Park Glacier top out and the upper shrund to the left of Smith Rock (looking down from KER): On the top of the first gendarme: Low on KER: Happy arrival on the summit ridge in the afternoon: Mohler Tooth on our way down: Fast growing baby rime: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Nice, but what is KER And Woodpecker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 KER, the knife edge ridge, connects the Smith Rock and the Mohler Tooth on the south side of Jeff Park Glacier. According to Jeff Thomas in Ore High, it is rated Rime :: or 5.1 rock when it is melted later in the season. The KER is the crux feature of the Jeff Park Gl and Russell Gl routes accessible via Jefferson Park. We approached KER via Woodpecker Ridge which is not the standard way and it is NOT described in Ore High. It is however shorter than via Jeff Park. Woodpecker Ridge starts right at the TH#3442 off the road 040, going eastward and SE and then parallels Mill Creek to the north before merging with the Russell gl ridge (11a) below the Prehistoric Monster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pioneerian Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Great pics, thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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