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matts323

Wenatchee-area cragging/bouldering?

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A friend recently told me that she was taken to a sport-climbing crag near Rocky Reach Dam, just north of Wenatchee. She didn't recall exactly how to get there, though. I searched online and asked at Leavenworth Mountain Sports, where the (very helpful!) staff offered directions to bouldering in that area, but didn't know how to find this mystery crag. Anyone know how to get there, and/or any more details about it? Thanks!

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It is across the street from the gas station/jet-ski rental place, about 10 minutes north of E. Wen.

 

You aren't missing a lot if you never find it.

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You're better off to just keep driving N on 97 and check out climbing around Omak.

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Thanks - I just have family in Wenatchee, so the allure of cragging/bouldering within 10-15 minutes of home is pretty strong.

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Head west on HWY 2 about 20-30 minutes to Peshastin Pinnacles, or Icicle Creek in Leavenworth for good cragging/bouldering.

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So I'm a little surprised about the responses regarding Rocky Reach. As one of the developers I think it's a really nice crag with a lot to offer. It is not as big as Vantage nor is it the best crag you've ever been to. But I think it is a nice alternative to other areas on the east side. There are currently 17 estabilshed, mixed trad and sport routes, from 5.7 to 5.12, all on good rock with easy access. Please park in Lincoln Head State Park (fee or Discovery pass required) and walk across the highway to access the crag.(approx. 15 min.) Please respect the orchard and don't walk through it. There is no guide at present but the routes are easy to see. Pick one that looks good and go for it. A liitle adventure always makes it more fun! Keep in mind that not too many people know about this so if your the only party there don't worry about it. Enjoy!

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So how many people are needed to crag here? Porter, I think we may ned a climbing manual for this area too. (Just kidding Ed)

 

I assume this is the crag: Lincoln-Rock-State-Park.jpg

 

I always assumed this jumble of rocks was off limits due to being right on top of a small orchard.

Edited by telemarker

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That's the crag! The crag is on DNR land with an easement for the PUD powerlines. You have to cross leased land by the orchard owner. He's ok with climbing there, just be descrete and don't walk in the orchard in crossing over to the crag and don't park in his driverway!

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Cool! Thanks. And what's that chimney go at on the far right there? I've always looked at that thing driving by.

 

Also, while we're on the subject of Wenatchee area climbing, have you ever climbed that splitter crack on Stayman Flats Road just south of the tunnel on 97A? Is that accessible to the public too?

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Cool! Also, while we're on the subject of Wenatchee area climbing, have you ever climbed that splitter crack on Stayman Flats Road just south of the tunnel on 97A? Is that accessible to the public too?

 

I've tried this guy several times. I chatted him up in person several times, and each time he was very nice, but resolute about climbing: no go. He seemed very concerned about liability.

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Keep in mind that not too many people know about this so if your the only party there don't worry about it. Enjoy!

Ah-hah! The last secret is out. :tup:

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Thanks, Rainman et al. - I drove a delivery truck up and down 97 after college, and counted a lot of worthy crags. It's great that some are being developed...and I'll plunk down change for the 1st-edition guidebook. :)

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