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Kerr Adams

Long ice routes?

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I am pretty unfamiliar with the WI and AI in and around MRNP (Is that right?) Im not really limited to the park i'm just hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

 

I'll be in Ashford in March for the RMI "tryouts" and am hoping to get in a nice long ice climb before or after.

 

Does anyone know of any 4-5 pitch ice climbs in the area? something in the 3-4 range would be ideal. something that tops out on a peak would be cool but i don't mind.

 

I've already looked around Mountain Project but couldn't really find much.

 

Thanks you.

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Chair Peak is aways away but is a classic 4-5 pitch mixed alpine route and should still be in shape in March. Routes on Lane Peak, Denman Peak, and Pyramid Peak in the Tatoosh inside the park have good snow/ice routes. North Face of Mt Hood, still farther away is pretty classic, but like 2,000 ft long.

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I'll be in Ashford in March for the RMI "tryouts" and am hoping to get in a nice long ice climb before or after.

 

Don't forget to compensate for the hangover from the drinking after the RMI eval.

 

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Good luck with the tryouts. Try to be tall and caucasion if you can help it. Cut your hair, take out earings, cover up any tattoos.

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Good luck with the tryouts. Try to be tall and caucasion if you can help it. Cut your hair, take out earings, cover up any tattoos.

 

I'm tall, caucasian, have no piercings, and rock the skinhead buzzcut year round! Maybe I should try and get a guiding job.

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What are you considering tall? I'm right at 6'0 and probably couldn't be more caucasian, although I suppose I could a take a couple classes. I do have pretty shaggy hair though. I'll be sure and get it cut ;D

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March may be hit or miss for ice in the area but I would recommend the North Ridge of Pinnacle Peak for a moderate but exciting 4-5 pitch route leading to a summit.

 

You''ll probably swing a tool into some ice somewhere along the way (like pitch three or so). This route is mountaineering and maybe "mixed" in modern parlance but certainly not an ice climb. It has great exposure but well situated belays and short pitches help keep things manageable. An easy descent off the south side awaits, though I've encountered avalanche danger there when the north side was fine.

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matt,

 

Did you mean the East Ridge? I looked around a bit and could only find beta on the East. It has a similar rating so i thought you may have mixed them up.

 

Thanks everyone!

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Thats a different national average sobo. Maybe a little above......Is that weird that I know that? ;D
I don't wanna know how you know that... :whistle:

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Yes, I meant the North Ridge of Pinnacle Peak. It is a thrilling but short and relatively easy to manage winter climb. It has a little bit of technical climbing, though, with some complexity in terms of ice/rock/snow, difficult pro, exposure, descent down the other side of the peak, etc.

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Very good input from DPS and Matt - I view March as fairly harsh conditions still in MRNP, follow their advice and you'll maybe hit it just right. Usually May/June, things are warming up and not that good for ice - it's so weather dependent, it sometimes sucks. "thrilling" is a good description of the North Ridge. Have Fun!

 

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the logistics of the Longmire gate can mess you up on day climbs around Rainier.

 

we got on N ridge of Pinnacle back in Dec but the low snow exposed difficult rock and we ran out of time.

It's snowed a lot since then. Nice position on that climb, lots of exposure too, but not much AI, maybe a pitch of 50deg.

 

the only 4-5 pitch WI is Drury near Leavenworth, it forms once every 5 years

 

There's some 1 pitch WI4 that forms on the E wall of the Nisqually canyon near the road but it's not cold enough now

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The bugaboo on N Ridge Pinnacle Peak (I erroneously wrote Pyramid) is a beehive shaped gendarme of compact andesite. Well featured for climbing, but hard to get pro. Bring KBs/Bugaboo pitons.

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Thanks again for the advice everyone!

 

DPS, I'm not too concerned about runout but i'll be sure and bring my knife blades and pitons. Thanks for the tip!

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