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Posted (edited)

Ahh yes we just about got run down by the groomer at around 5:00AM. We met several other folks that were coming down at about the same time after getting blown around up high. Good turns on the Corduroy though!

 

-Nate

Edited by eldiente
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Posted

Also got first tracks on the (butter smooth) groomers, albeit Friday morning...funny looks abound from people in the parking lot!

Anyone have beta on how the NF gullies are holding out? I'd imagine a wallow-fest, if not wind-loaded and dangerous! Seems windward (NW-S) aspects are the best bet for the time being...

Posted

I was looking forward to ski Cooper Spur yesterday 01/28/12 in the forecasted "partly sunny"conditions:

6787123051_bf1614e810_z.jpg

 

 

Started late, at 8 am, and skinned up from 3900' to the CS rock shelter (6700'), first on some decent snow and then pathetically struggling through ice and spin drifted snow pillows, but eventually ditched the skis.

 

At this point, crampons on, tool in hand and up to Tie In rock. It was super windy on the spur and a couple of times I was close to being swept.

 

6400':

6787116175_e68ccf8658_z.jpg

 

8000':

6787139521_007b6fe5a1_z.jpg

 

9200':

6787281051_ffa40ed1d0_z.jpg

 

 

And what is this? :) It came out of the cloud for a total of 1 min.

6787201743_e05052df9f_b.jpg

The shrund seemed to be more manageable than was in December. Massive attack is about to begin?

 

 

 

 

Posted

I would consider a shovel, probe, saw, and beacon mandatory on every hood climb. A shovel is essential for digging and assessing the snow conditions (if you don't know how to, research this from American Avalanche Assoc., or from AIARE, or take an Avy 1 course), and for emergency shelter building. West Crater rim slides frequently (http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Report_MtHood_avalanche.htm), but within our maritime climate our slides usually happen within the storm or immediately afterwards. The Reid also sees frequent avalanches, as well as Wyeast (http://www.oregonlive.com/news/index.ssf/2010/01/massive_avalanche_crashes_down.html).

Be safe out there,

Christopher

Posted

Not gonna be in for a while looks like...

 

Depends on what "in" you are after.

 

As of now, horrible skiing and perfect walking conditions above 6400' and looking at the forecast, it is unlikely going to change much through the next w/e.

Posted (edited)

Got out yesterday (well started up Friday night), skin up to the top of Palmer was good, a little ice crust (sometimes breakable) near and past the top

we tried Reid headwall but despite the lack of sun on the rime towers, chunks were still falling down(!) so we headed to the west crater rim variation and encountered either styrofoam snow, breakable but solid ice crust, or pretty solid (almost) alpine ice sticks.

 

Edited by mhux
Posted

This past weekend we have seen two climbers take signigicant falls/slides on the SS due to icey conditions at upper triangle moraine. Snow conditions on the north side are reportedly excellent.

Cheers!

Posted
Saw the fall. Hope she heals quickly. As someone that was solo'ing I was grateful to see the sense of community and the way people responded to help out. Kudos and be safe

 

I know the de-facto leader of the party... she's bruised and battered, but not as bad as they made her out to be on the news. She should make a full recovery, soon. Some busted ribs and sprains.

 

Apparently one of the rescuers almost bit it trying to get down to her too, falling about 25' before arresting. It was starting to get turtle-shelly friday on descent in that area- I imagine after two more days of hot sun and cold nights, it's probably about the texture of an obsidian flow

 

I'll be soloing the south side tonight... I seem to be very sure-footed and feel confident, even on shitty re-freeze ice, but I'm taking both my phones. :-D

Posted
Snow conditions on the north side are reportedly excellent.

 

Hmmmm...It took us 8.5 hrs from the car to the base of the North Face on deep postholey snow through the T-line, down and up the Eliot gl.

8.5! in high winds and spindrifts - as opposed to 4.5 hrs back in December! Would you go and get on a grade IV route after that? We did not.

Instead, we got on some sweet water ice in the NE face corner and up to the Tie-In rock, then merged with and went up the dog Cooper Spur.

 

Yes, the TJ A-frame is officially locked up. As good as it gets now:

6828223147_e18a32828c_z.jpg

 

On the upper Eliot gl:

6833813223_e61da039a6_z.jpg

 

 

Water ice was found and climbed:

6833778973_f733399a66_z.jpg

 

6833779065_700406e54d_z.jpg

 

 

Hauling ourselves to the Tie-In rock and up the spur:

6833813275_9b8e067036_z.jpg

 

 

6833813323_e49c99d990_b.jpg

 

 

Oh, and it got windy up there!

On the CS descent at 7K':

[video:vimeo]36317883

 

 

Posted
Was this today? It was hella windy in town. I was at the cost for most of the day, and it was totally still there, ironically enough.

 

Oh, forgot to mention, we started on Fri 02/03 11.50 pm onwards through Sat.

 

Yeah, a few power lines are down on the west side today!

Posted
Snow conditions on the north side are reportedly excellent.

Hmmmm...It took us 8.5 hrs from the car to the base of the North Face on deep postholey snow through the T-line, down and up the Eliot gl.

8.5! in high winds and spindrifts - as opposed to 4.5 hrs back in December! Would you go and get on a grade IV route after that? We did not.

 

8.5 hrs!? That's insane! Good to know, too, my partner was about to trick me into that, saying the approach was a breeze in December...at least you got some ice though

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