Greg_W Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 There's currently 69 guests...haha..huh, huh...get it? 69? ha...ha.. Okay, not any more but it sounded funny at the time (in that "wasted-at-3a.m.-fraternity-house" kinda way). Sorry... [ 11-12-2002, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: Greg W ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 *searching for the "shaking head and looking skyward with hands raised in wonder at a hitherto unimaginable display of duuhhhhh" emoticon* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted November 12, 2002 Author Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: *searching for the "shaking head and looking skyward with hands raised in wonder at a hitherto unimaginable display of duuhhhhh" emoticon* fag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 You say that like its a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Greg - Are you telling me that if if we go aid climbing you will refuse to share my deluxe double wide portaledge? Nothing like company in a steamy doublewide to pass time! While you're hanging out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted November 12, 2002 Author Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Greg - Are you telling me that if if we go aid climbing you will refuse to share my deluxe double wide portaledge? Nothing like company in a steamy doublewide to pass time! While you're hanging out No, we'll just have to have a chat beforehand. It'll go something like this: Greg: "You touch me in a gay way and I'll kill you." PeterP: "Ha, ha...Greg, that's a good one. What's for dinner?" Greg: "No, seriously, I'll gut you with my belay knife and make a macrame plant hanger with your intestines." PeterP: "Oh...okay. That's cool...how 'bout them Seahawks." And we climbed happily onward towards our goal. Greg W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Is the "belay knife" so you can cut the rope and walk away if the climber you're belaying starts acting gay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Is the "belay knife" so you can cut the rope and walk away if the climber you're belaying starts acting gay? You mean like this? http://www.nwog.org/images/prusikwr100602/craig/dittle%20little%20dance.mpg I guess it's locked now. [ 11-12-2002, 02:39 PM: Message edited by: vegetablebelay ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted November 12, 2002 Author Share Posted November 12, 2002 I carry a knife with me when climbing to cut old nasty rap slings, cut hunks of new webbing to leave as rap slings, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Greg: "You touch me in a gay way and I'll kill you." PeterP: "Ha, ha...Greg, that's a good one. What's for dinner?" Greg: "No, seriously, I'll gut you with my belay knife and make a macrame plant hanger with your intestines." PeterP: "Oh...okay. That's cool...how 'bout them Seahawks." And we climbed happily onward towards our goal. Greg W Act Two: As our heros reach the summit they look deep into each others eyes and in a moment of weakness give way to their unrequited love for each other. Locked into a long and timeless embrace, their hearts beating as one, they know theirs is a love which cannot be spoken. They commence to setting up the portaledge for one last evening. "YMCA" blaring from the ghetto blaster they toast to each other with gatoritas from old nalgene bottles and try to drown their body-funk with the juice from used spam containers. The sun goes down and Greg follows suit. "Its fun to stay at the Y-M-C-A" yeah, baby yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 A ROUND OF ZIMAS TO ALL MY FRIENDS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted November 12, 2002 Author Share Posted November 12, 2002 rbw - We'd better have a talk before we go aid climbing this fall... Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Can I come too or is three a crowd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: Greg: "You touch me in a gay way and I'll kill you." PeterP: "Ha, ha...Greg, that's a good one. What's for dinner?" Greg: "No, seriously, I'll gut you with my belay knife and make a macrame plant hanger with your intestines." PeterP: "Oh...okay. That's cool...how 'bout them Seahawks." And we climbed happily onward towards our goal. Greg W Act Two: As our heros reach the summit they look deep into each others eyes and in a moment of weakness give way to their unrequited love for each other. Locked into a long and timeless embrace, their hearts beating as one, they know theirs is a love which cannot be spoken. They commence to setting up the portaledge for one last evening. "YMCA" blaring from the ghetto blaster they toast to each other with gatoritas from old nalgene bottles and try to drown their body-funk with the juice from used spam containers. The sun goes down and Greg follows suit. "Its fun to stay at the Y-M-C-A" yeah, baby yeah. That's just beautiful, man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted November 12, 2002 Author Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Can I come too or is three a crowd. On a serious note, I've read that aid climbing in a group of three is very efficient. Anyone have experience with this? I can see the downside of not getting to lead as many cool pitches, so it wouldn't be that great of shorter climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Works great if you are hauling. If not why bother? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted November 12, 2002 Author Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: Works great if you are hauling. If not why bother? From what I read (might have been John Long), a group of three could move faster because while the second is cleaning, the third jugs another line and is ready to lead as soon as he gets to the belay so belay changeover time is minimal. The downside is that I think you have to carry almost two racks to make it worthwhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Greg, You should have came to my aid clinic last night that didn't happen because no-one came... 3 is good fun cause you have a bro to chill and smoke cigarettes or whatever with at the belay. But for newbies it's usualy slower cause you have 30% more shit to get clusterfucked. if everyone is dialed you can have someone leading for more of the time. Hauling is worse cause you have more weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by rbw1966: Works great if you are hauling. If not why bother? From what I read (might have been John Long), a group of three could move faster because while the second is cleaning, the third jugs another line and is ready to lead as soon as he gets to the belay so belay changeover time is minimal. The downside is that I think you have to carry almost two racks to make it worthwhile. Long is pretty much right, if you've got a system down. I've found that you waste a shit load of time fucking with ropes and stuff on the first day, and it gradualy gets faster as you move up the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: I'll gut you with my belay knife and make a macrame plant hanger with your intestines. Macrame? Plant hanger?!! What are you Greg some kinda fruity hippy dweeb?!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted November 13, 2002 Author Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: I'll gut you with my belay knife and make a macrame plant hanger with your intestines. Macrame ? Plant hanger ?!! What are you Greg some kinda fruity hippy dweeb?!!! No, I just remember my dad making a few of those when I was little (late '70's). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Damn and here I am making a serious reply to this darn thread. Lamy is right 3 can be a mess if you aren't dialed into the big wall thing. The biggest drawback is that you can only lead 1/3 of the pitches. That is you are only on the sharp end 2/3 of the time you would be if there were only two. Sometimes with only one partner I have been involved in much scheming to get the right pitches - with three it can become a nightmare. Nothing is worse than jugging most of the hard pitches on a difficult aid climb - well I guess jugging all of them might be worse. PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Well if you wanna lead all the pitches take up soloing so you have plenty of time to experience them all. Climbing FAST in a party of 3 is about efficiency not who gets which good pitch but who will do it fastest. Climbing SLOW in a party of 3 on the other hand, means the belayer is never totally completely bored (theres always someone to pack a bowl for ya) and when the leader starts making those whimpery noises as his beak stack shifts, there's 2 people to laugh at him. Slow 3 climbing = aid equivalent of climbing at the basde of Morning Glory Wall, a glamourous social experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 It's not leading all the pitches but leading enough so that I can say I really climbed the route as opposed to being a belayer. I am always amazed at how many people claim to have climbed hard aid routes but basically were belayers. Whats worse than not leading enough of the hard pitches is having to fessup that you lead none of them. As a practical matter, for most parties I'd say 2 is faster. PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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