Learning multi-pitch

[AOK]

I climb strong and lead well but whats the best way to learn multi-pitch? I desperately want to gain some skills this winter so during the summer I can do some longer sport climbs in the western United States. I'm currently in Portland. Does anyone have any ideas for learning the skills necessary to multi-pitch routes?

[sobo]

Hook up with a trad leader and second some MP routes. Once you've cleaned a few, you'll get the hang of things pretty quickly. Like racking for the next lead as you clean, rope and belay management skilz to avoid clusterf***s, saving time while belaying and preparing to swap the lead, etc. Just go do it.

[Plaidman]

Climb at Beacon Rock. We still have a few good days. Today was awesome.

 

Learn to build anchors. A lot of the anchors at Beacon are bolted but learn to build gear anchors too.

Edited December 24, 2011 by Plaidman

[Lodestone]

I climb strong and lead well but whats the best way to learn multi-pitch? I desperately want to gain some skills this winter so during the summer I can do some longer sport climbs in the western United States. I'm currently in Portland. Does anyone have any ideas for learning the skills necessary to multi-pitch routes?

 

 

I'm confused as to the correlation between learning to climb multi-pitch and climbing "longer sport climb"(?). Not that learning to climb multi-pitch needs any explanation. I'd suggest hooking up with someone that is proficient at multi-pitch and learning what you can. That might be initiated by posting on this forum with a request to do some multi-pitch at Beacon or Gandalph's Grip here in Portland. Today would have been a great day for that one. Kind of regret not seeing this earlier.

 

 

Chad

[denalidave]

Hook up with a trad leader and second some MP routes. Once you've cleaned a few, you'll get the hang of things pretty quickly. Like racking for the next lead as you clean, rope and belay management skilz to avoid clusterf***s, saving time while belaying and preparing to swap the lead, etc. Just go do it.

I've heard it's good to keep an eye on your retreat options/plan if you have to bail... Can you rap the route? Is there any features/horns to rap. Fail/Bail via summit, etc. Course, I never bail *cough* so this information is just what I've heard along the way...

[FFSummers]

I'm guessing that you want to climb multi pitch sport, not trad? It's real straight forward in that case. Learning how to follow a trad leader is great but could be more than you need to deal with just to climb a 6 pitch 5.8. As long as there is bolted anchors all you really need to do is decide if your going to belay directly off the anchor (munter or atc in guide mode) or through the anchor and off your hip (atc). Rope management will come after you learn the hard way by doing it wrong. As long as your wearing a helmet and have good belay skills, you should be fine........ if applying common sense.

 

That being said, trad will open a lot more options than sport when talking multi pitch, but you gotta start somewhere.

[FFSummers]

One good trick I've learned (lots of tricks i could still learn) is that it's way easier to belay a follower if you move back from your anchor. If your clipped in with a runner or one of those PAS deals then you are to close to your anchor and will be taking in slack very slowly. Lots of talk about fall factors and those things going snap or hurting your back/hips, but they aren't right for the job anyhow. 4-6ft of rope on a clove hitch works great. If your on a 10' ledge, give yourself a 10' tie in so you can belay them from near the edge, way easier than being choked up on the anchor. And back up knots on clove hitches are probably a good idea but to each his own. Personal Anchor Systems are still great for when you rap the route or need to clip in quick at an anchor. IMHO of coarse

 

 

[AOK]

If someone is down to teach multi-pitch I'm more than willing to learn. Let me know next time your headed out and I'll grab my gear! Thanks for all the advice all! Peace.

[AOK]

Have had some AMAZING responses from the climbing community. THANK YOU!

 

I'm always down to learn and develop. It could be said I'm a "super psyched" climber. Message me if you're down to head outdoors or WHATEVER!

 

Climbing is a huge part of my life!!!

 

Peace.

[cdmike112]

Get a BD ATC guide or something similar that allows you to belay directly off of the anchor and provides the added security of auto-locking.

[sobo]

A Putzl Reverso will work for that, too. Although the Guide is beefier and will last longer than the Reverso. Mine is getting those nasty edges where the rope wears the plate to a razor's edge.

[jfs1978]

A Putzl Reverso will work for that, too. Although the Guide is beefier and will last longer than the Reverso. Mine is getting those nasty edges where the rope wears the plate to a razor's edge.

Seems like I wear out a couple BD Guides a year this way. I use the my Reverso less but don't expect it to last long when I get around to it. Would be nice if they'd make a heavier duty version for general cragging. I think Mammut did a standard belay device in steel at one point.

[genepires]

I have used a kong Gi-Gi (which is one of the original self locking belay plates which the reverso and guides evolved from) for 13 years with no wear at all. If these newer devices are wearing down so often, maybe give the gi gi a try.

You will need to carry a regular belay device for rappelling and belaying a leader though. Rappelling is OK but not preferred, but having a spare rappel device can be helpful at times.

 

[genepires]

A Putzl Reverso will work for that, too. Although the Guide is beefier and will last longer than the Reverso. Mine is getting those nasty edges where the rope wears the plate to a razor's edge.

 

is this the newer reverso (maybe molded or forged?) or the older folded metal plate kind? I thought the newer reverso looked very similar to the guide in the aspect of preventing the sharp edges from forming.

[jfs1978]

Gene, the same thing eventually happens to the newer generation devices too. It happens more slowly and I never belay out of the low friction side anyway so it doesn't cause much of a safety issue. But I suppose it could. Usually just means it's time to buy a new one...or wash my ropes more often...

[sobo]

A Putzl Reverso will work for that, too. Although the Guide is beefier and will last longer than the Reverso. Mine is getting those nasty edges where the rope wears the plate to a razor's edge.

is this the newer reverso (maybe molded or forged?) or the older folded metal plate kind? I thought the newer reverso looked very similar to the guide in the aspect of preventing the sharp edges from forming.

It's the older, bent plate style thingy. Serial #04197C, if that means anything...