Rope Question???/ss

[bwwakaranai]

I just inherited 2 ropes,they are 14 years old but they had never been taken out of the factory coils. I know they were stored in a nice cool, dry place. They are Elderids, which seem to have a stiff feel anyways but this one is a bit drier than usual. Otherwise it looks perfect. Safe for leading???

 

The other rope he gave me is also brand new but its hard to tell if its a static or dynamic rope. I know it sounds weird but again since Elderids have a stiff feel, I just cant tell. I did a stretch test just tugging on it and it seems to have bounce but not much. The only mark thats on it is a (1) on the ends. Anyone know if this is a symbol for single rope?? Dynamic??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rad]

That's how many falls it will hold before it snaps with a loud TWANG!

 

Seriously, though, I wouldn't lead on a rope that old no matter how it was stored.

[rob]

I think if you have to ask people on the internet if it's safe for leading that means it's a top-rope-only kind of deal.

 

Regardless, I believe a "1" in a circle is the UIAA symbol for a single rope.

[bwwakaranai]

I think if you have to ask people on the internet if it's safe for leading that means it's a top-rope-only kind of deal.

 

Regardless, I believe a "1" in a circle is the UIAA symbol for a single rope.

 

I know right. but its sooo brand new...looking

single dynamic correct..?

 

It will make a good work horse.

 

Come on Rad, you'll dust her off and test her for me no??

[olyclimber]

you have two...so do some fun testing with one. if good you can trust your life with the other.

[Rad]

Come on Rad, you'll dust her off and test her for me no??

 

Well, it's probably safer than some of the fuzzy noodles I've seen you bring to the crag.

 

[sobo]

I just inherited 2 ropes... Safe for leading???

Send them to me and I'll test them for you.

[denalidave]

I just inherited 2 ropes... Safe for leading???

Send them to me and I'll test them for you.

I'm sure the ropes are fine... Just don't fall on them.

[Wastral]

Old nylon going brittle USED TO BE TRUE. It certainly is not anymore. They have learned to place more "plasticizers" in the nylon therefore increasing its life. Nylon ropes still degrade over time though. I would be interested to find out at what age modern nylon ropes actually lose 25% of their strength. I would be astonished if it wasn't 20-25 years. If its not, then said rope manufacturers are going cheep on the nylon quality.

 

It used to be that in airplanes that all nylon parts had to be replaced every 5-10 years. Now due to modern plasticizers, no one even bothers replacing them unless its due to wear. Its certainly not a strength problem or brittle problem anymore.

 

I would feel just fine leading on a 14 year old rope. If you are actively pushing yourself and take very frequent falls, then you are probably going to go with a larger diameter rope anyways as you don't like to buy lots of ropes or take 2 with your. For Alpine, those ropes are fine.

 

They have had 0 UV on them right? No battery acid right? That is what I would be worried about. Forget the age of the ropes. I would be worried they had some contaminant dumped all over them and then "cleaned" and put back to make them look "new".

[G-spotter]

I don't always lead climb on a 14 year old rope

 

 

But when I do I make sure my partner gets the crux pitch.

[Wastral]

Here is part of what I was remembering:

 

http://climbinglife.com/tech-tips/ropes-dont-break.html

 

http://theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf

 

Replace those climbing slings boys and keep using the rope!

 

Beal says 15 years on their website. http://bealplanet.com/sport/anglais/technicite-corde-page.php#dureevie

 

Here UIAA: http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/Conference_on_nylon_and_ropes.pdf

 

Basically says its the amounts its been climbed on and had nothing to do with how old the rope is. Look up the bulletin to get specifics its not on the web from what I can see though. Guys at Marmot behind the climbing counter, Gary? I think? would have it.

 

Anyways, its not the age anymore, its the amount of use. Use those ropes and feel good doing it. I would trust those unused ropes far more than some of the ropes I have seen folks using even though they were less than 5 years old.

 

Brian

[bwwakaranai]

Thanks a lot for the link Wastral. Im honestly surprised that they found no significant decrease in strength in a 29 yr. old rope! Hey no more leading on the fuzzy noodle Rad we can just take out O'l greenie I like the idea of drop testing the other rope too.