Dave7 Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 (edited) Hello all, Need some advice on crack climbing techniques. I am pushing my limits trying to get better and doing harder routes, as I have progressed most of my time has been spent on slabs doing a lot of face climbing. My current project (5.9...i know not that difficult but hey, i am trying to get better) involves a short section of finger cracks on a slightly overhanging rock face. I have top roped it a few times and can't seem to unlock the moves/sequence for this section. I understand the basics of hand jams and foot jams, does anyone have any resources, online reading, or advice for finger jams? Thanks in advance! Cheers! -Dave And yes i would love to attend the crack climbing clinic that is coming up in Oregon...however I am on the opposite side of the country...Yikes. Edited October 26, 2011 by Dave7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradhead Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 An extended trip to Squamish. Other than that, finger cracks climb a lot more like face climbs than other (larger) cracks. Milk the feet and rests and don't plug up the best jams with gear. Perhaps obvious advice but more pertinent to thin cracks than hand cracks or wider IMO especially if the crack is constricting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Here's a link to a Supertopo Thread that posted up Dale Bard's 1978 article "Pumping Cracks" from the Great Pacific Ironworks catalog. This is a great crack climbing 101 education. Pumping Cracks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EthanH Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 http://www.lackhead.org/jamming/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonNelson Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 That Steph Davis article is great. (See the link above.) My suggestion is to frequent the UW climbing rock. They have a nice range of crack sizes. I learned to crack-climb there and wish it were closer to where I now live. I wish climbing gyms had more cracks. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Stemming is the solution to everything. What's you're project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave7 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Thanks for the article links, some good reads! I think the issue i am having is dealing with the off-width finger cracks. Definitely heading back to the rock soon to try some new techniques. My current "project" is this 5.9 route at Mt. Yonah Georgia entitled "Army Route 9" (or 8, cant remember). The guide book rates it 5.9 or A1. From other climbers down here in the south, they claim that alot of the ratings in the book are "sandbagged" but that is a whole other topic. I am having fun just trying to get better and learn different techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 The mystery has been solved. The secret to climbing thin cracks is to have thin hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Crack climbing in a nutshell: 1 - insert appropriate sized appendage into crack. 2 - twist body to make said appendage expand inside the crack. 3 - squeal in pain. Repeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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