[TR] Blodgett, Humbugs, and Whiskey Gulch - Timebinder, SW Face, and Numerous Boulders 9/23/2011

[pu]

Trip: Blodgett, Humbugs, and Whiskey Gulch - Timebinder, SW Face, and Numerous Boulders

 

Date: 9/23/2011

 

Trip Report:

Had a very productive 3 days with Jess recently. I have been trying hard to get to some areas in Montana that I don't normally go to. Jess had not done anything in Montana except climb ice in Bozeman so this was an eye opener for him.

 

Day 1. Timebinder on the S Face of the Prow in Blodgett. WOW! What an impressive line with an easy approach. The route clocks in at 11b grade III. The last pitch is the crux. We did not do it. We did the first seven pitches which were well protected and excellent climbing. The hardest part of the Timebinder is getting off the ground. You have about 40 feet of 9+ slab before the first bolt. After that the route is a dream. Rap the route with two ropes.

Day 2. Drive to Humbugs. Do SW Face 5.8. 1 1/2 hour, 4 Mile, 1000' elevation gain on a buffed trail. Excellent climbing on clean white granite. Good Pro. Easy descent. Set in the most spectacular Bev Doolittle landscape. If you are trying to get someone psyched on multi pitch rock you need to take them here. Easily the best 5.8 alpine route I have ever done.

Day 3. Bouldering at Whiskey Gulch out of Butte. High desert bouldering set in a conifer forest. Tons of granite boulders with excellent landings. No Snakes! No People! Apparently Whiskey is in a rain shadow. If the Ice is poor in Bozeman it is reasonable to drive to Whiskey and go Bouldering!! Even if it's raining or crappy in Butte. I am not a well traveled boulderer. However, I have been to most of the areas around l'town and I can say that the quality at Whiskey is equal, but without SNAKES OR CROWDS.

 

Gear Notes:

No special gadgets.

 

Approach Notes:

Approaches are easy and Detailed in Falcon Guide Rock Climbers Guide to Montana for Blodgett and the Butte Climbers Guide by the late D Bishop for Whiskey and the Humbugs.

[powderhound]

 

blodgett

 

 

Humbugs

 

jealous, the humbugs is one of my favorite spots in the west.

[ezra]

Awesome, thanks for posting up, must get to the humbugs!!!

 

[mountainsloth]

that place looks lovely! Montana has some hidden gems no?

[danhelmstadter]

i was on an outward bound trip there a long time ago. 3 weeks backpacking, then we did a 10 mile "personal challange" run on the dirt road between the spires and highway. I came back years later and top roped there with my girlfriend. definetly wanna go back for some climbing! thanks for the stoke.

Edited September 28, 2011 by danhelmstadter

[genepires]

that humbug spire looks delicious

 

[bigbro]

Thanks for the stoke PU. It's been too long.

[pu]

Zach, we should go to the humbugs!!!! You'll love it.

[ezra]

Pu, How run out was the P3 chimney on the South west face of Humbug spire?

 

Thanks Much!

-e

[pu]

The crux was bolt protected. Then about 20' of 5.7 to good gear.

[BlodgettGoat]

Timebinder is a beautiful climb! I have yet to get out to the Humbugs!

 

Nice Ticks!

[j_b]

How many established pitches in the Humbugs now? I climbed there over several outings more than 20 years ago (single pitch stuff). We didn't have maps and weren't aware of any development although I assume there was some as the spires are quite visible from the highway. We just did what looked good that didn't require fixed pro. We never saw anybody around but we did see plenty of large wildlife, which sometimes gave us the feeling of being prospective lunch. Good times.