AOK Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 I had a buddy teach me all the knots and safety calls associated with top-roping and sport climbing, but we only went twice before he was injured with a different partner, taking him out for the season. I know how to lead belay comfortably as well as belay, but what else can I do to better prepare for leading sport climbs and taking a lead fall? I climb in the 5.9-5.10 range comfortably but am VERY nervous about leading!That's natural I assume... I have quick draws but being that I've only top roped twice, don't necessarily feel comfortable yet. Should I get more time top roping first? Should I take leading classes at the gym first? I'm VERY determined but absolutely safe as I can't afford serious injury or worse! So what's the next step? I boulder decently enough in the v3-v4 range, so what can I do to better prepare and be a safer climber for myself and partners? Please be gentle! I LOVE THIS SPORT!!! It's my obsession! Advice is necessary in this sport and much appreciated! I was thinking a great deal more top roping at the gym and outside whenever possible and then an indoor class on leading, but it's costly and I can be impatient. I'm merely enthusiastic-NOT DANGEROUS! Just looking for some advice on the best way to advance so I can get on some big walls! Thank you all very much and take care! Peace Quote
caverpilot Posted August 31, 2011 Posted August 31, 2011 Just like anything else in life, simply practice on easy stuff and then work your way up. If you can climb 5.9/5.10, then why not do a shit-ton of toproping at that level, and then start leading some 5.easy or 5.6 climbs? Also, find another partner that can climb a little better than you. Personally, I don't think indoor skills equate to outdoor skills - and therefore If want you want to do is lead trad, then start by toproping outside, then sport, then really really easy trad... I wouldn't waste energy indoors unless you really need instruction - hell, I was able to lead 5.8/5.9 about 10 years ago, but the only way I'll get back to it is to toprope the hell out of those climbs and then, again, start by leading a sport route (quickdraws) on a 5.easy climb... Finally, if you are "VERY nervous" about leading, like you say, then I'd stay off of anything steep or big until you aren't. Being on the sharp end of the rope is always exciting, but being "nervous" about falling/getting hurt/dying usually doesn't help your performance, it hinders it. It is hard to "ungrip" yourself if you get sketched out, and on lead is a fucking horrible place for that to happen. So again, why not toprope yourself up to the 5.10 level, and then start leading 5.6.... Quote
pcg Posted August 31, 2011 Posted August 31, 2011 why not toprope yourself up to the 5.10 level, and then start leading 5.6.... That's what my son and I have been doing this summer, although I can't top rope 5.10 yet. I can redpoint 5.8 sport and am starting to place gear on easier routes. We've been going to Rocky Butte mainly, because it's convenient, but am looking for areas with easier trad routes (RB is mainly 5.10/5.11 sport) where a rack of nuts is adequate. My son goes off to school in three weeks and I'll need a partner for practicing easy strad in the PDX area or nearby. PM me if you need a partner. I'm about as careful and conservative as they come. Quote
Teh Phuzzy Posted August 31, 2011 Posted August 31, 2011 The best way to get better, faster, stronger, more confident... is to get out and climb! If you have only been on TR a few times, spending time off terra firma (even on easy routes) will go a long way with making you feel more comfortable about getting on the sharp end. Placing gear and tagging a rope to practice gear placement while on TR is a great way to learn the art of leading. I wish I could have done that before jumping on lead. My lady and I are doing a little gorge tour this weekend; hitting up Ozone, Farside, and Beacon. I have been leading a few of the low .10's at Farside on gear and am more than willing to show you around out there. Have you been out to the Bridge of the Gods bouldering area? Shoot em a PM if you want to meet up this weekend for a day. ~Adam Quote
AOK Posted September 1, 2011 Author Posted September 1, 2011 I had no idea there was bouldering near bridge of the gods! I have a crash pad and am totally down to get out ASAP! Was supposed to lead a 5.8 at Frenches dome today and they bailed on me! Lame I know. Was maybe camping/climbing area 51 this weekend, but I'm down for ANYTHING. PM sent! Call me or message me for partners. I'm ready to get outside-though my climbing muscles are all but gone now due to this large break! =( basically like starting over in this sport! Boo! Haha! Anyways-hit me up and thanks for advice! Quote
AOK Posted September 1, 2011 Author Posted September 1, 2011 Any advice on taking a lead fall? Any articles or videos online I can view? That's what makes me most nervous is a lead fall and trusting gear. I dont want to take a whipper wrong and injure myself. It's important to fall correctly ya know? Quote
JBC Posted September 2, 2011 Posted September 2, 2011 http://warriorsway.com Arno Ilgner has written two great books which (among other stuff) cover this very issue. He also does 'falling' clinics. Jim Couch Quote
Dave7 Posted September 2, 2011 Posted September 2, 2011 http://warriorsway.com Arno Ilgner has written two great books which (among other stuff) cover this very issue. He also does 'falling' clinics. Jim Couch I am also beginning out leading sport and trad...i found this book and it has helped me immensely. I actually took a sport leading class at a climbing gym (the instructors teach you how to fall and then make you fall a few times) which helped me starting off. Then practiced a bunch. Once i felt comfortable, I took a trad leading course in leavenworth which was awesome!! (s/o to Northwest Mountain School) I began the day on the ground learning proper gear placement, anchor building, and multipitch transitions, climbed castle rock, a few other routes, and by the end of the day the instructor had me leading easy 5.5 5.6 routes! Quote
PuckerJunkie Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 I agree with the easy-to-hard approach mentioned several times already. That's what I did. You might try starting out on overhung stuff (no decking potential) until you fall. That way you can see how you react with less consequences. I don't think there is anyway you can replicate that feeling in a course. Start with sport and get/make a stick-clip so you can try harder stuff, and of course fall, with less consequences. Maybe this is obvious, but I am constantly calculating how the fall will go. Where will I swing, how much rope is out, how far will I drag the belayer, etc. I feel like I usually know when I am gonna go so there is usually some sort of move I can do to keep my feet between my face and the rock. Tell you're belayer you're gonna go so they can maybe get some slack in. Though this last weekend I fell completely unexpectedly for the first time, just popped off sideways on a super easy move and got reeeeeely lucky I didn't crack my head open, lol! For me, there aren't many things more exhilarating than working a crux above the last piece. That head-game is what makes it fun! TRing is pretty safe, leading is not. Leading trad is really not:) Quote
111 Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 Any advice on taking a lead fall? avoid it whenever possible! Climb a lot in the gym and otherwise until you have developed more physical strength and ENDURANCE than you think you need; lead climbing takes way longer and you will certainly be over gripping/pumping out on easy stuff due to the stress. Learn what back clipping is...and dont do it. Some climbs are better than others to fall on. analyze each climb as you are climbing it on TR to see the objective hazards along the way. Then when you are comfy with a climb you know well, lead it. practice clipping a rope into a draw from every conceivable angle with each hand until it is automatic. at some point you will have to clip in each of those awkward positions and you'd best not be learning it then. The slack your belayer gives you while clipping causes the highest potential for groundfall all the way up to the third or fourth bolt sometimes, so make sure you have a good clipping stance for the first few bolts. take it slow!!! Quote
JosephH Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 ...how far will I drag the belayer... If you and they are doing it correctly you shouldn't be dragging your belayer anywhere. If that potential is there then you should address it before leaving the ground. Positioning, stancing, and anchoring should all be in the mix at a belayer's disposal. Overall you should think of the belayer as the foundation of a rope system you are assembling a piece at a time on lead - don't leave the ground with with a dubious belay. Quote
iceaxe23 Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 Any advice on taking a lead fall? Any articles or videos online I can view? That's what makes me most nervous is a lead fall and trusting gear. I dont want to take a whipper wrong and injure myself. It's important to fall correctly ya know? Here is a good video that I snagged off the net on lead fall practice. It's how I was taught back in the day. You take some falls on bomber pro in a safe area. You can also work your way up from toprope falls (little bit of slack), to sport climbing, and then to Trad. [video:youtube] Quote
111 Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 (edited) [video:youtube] [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3ps_0LV3jQ&NR=1 Edited September 7, 2011 by 111 Quote
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